Good Beginner Mods
05-11-05, 12:42 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by Icemark
Yeah, another example the K&N FTPK cone filter kit for my V6 Tacoma, actually had a 7% loss over the stock system.
Now here is a supposedly designed cone filter intake and tube kit that because of the hot engine compartment air getting into the intake, lowered dyno/RWHP by an average of 7% (or another way to look at it: down 15 HP peak) (as dyno sheets posted on TacomaTerritory have proven).
But, replace the stock element with a K&N panel filter, and remove the stock passengers underfender intake parts, and there is a 6 Peak RWHP increase.
Just another example of ricer mods, actually making fewer HP.
Yep a Cone filter, without a cool air box, is a waste of money on a street driven vehicle.
So, getting back to this thread, the only decent first/newbie/simple/1st stage mods are going to be a catback (in this case designed for a non turbo), a drop in filter like a K&N or RamAir, and a good tune up.
When the thread originator is ready to step up (2nd stage), then things like a SAFC, large cone filter with cool air box, down pipe or true duals, flywheel, and intake port matching come into play.
Now here is a supposedly designed cone filter intake and tube kit that because of the hot engine compartment air getting into the intake, lowered dyno/RWHP by an average of 7% (or another way to look at it: down 15 HP peak) (as dyno sheets posted on TacomaTerritory have proven).
But, replace the stock element with a K&N panel filter, and remove the stock passengers underfender intake parts, and there is a 6 Peak RWHP increase.
Just another example of ricer mods, actually making fewer HP.
Yep a Cone filter, without a cool air box, is a waste of money on a street driven vehicle.
So, getting back to this thread, the only decent first/newbie/simple/1st stage mods are going to be a catback (in this case designed for a non turbo), a drop in filter like a K&N or RamAir, and a good tune up.
When the thread originator is ready to step up (2nd stage), then things like a SAFC, large cone filter with cool air box, down pipe or true duals, flywheel, and intake port matching come into play.
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
05-11-05, 11:30 AM
#27
Originally Posted by Icemark
No, unless the cone filter is bigger than 5 dia X 4 high, and has an external air flow (not just replacing the stock air box with a cone filter- but a cool air box protecting the filter from taking in warm engine air) there will be a dyno proven loss of Horse power on a non turbo FC (as well as many other cars).
Proven over and over and over again, with actual dyno tests with sheets that have been posted.
Add in the effect of warm air increases the possibility of detonation/pre-ignition of the fuel (most notably at mid-range speeds) and a cone filter without any sort of cool air protection is just asking for blown motors and reduced power.
And remember the ECU adjusts timing based on air temp in the AFM and DEI, actually retarding timing at higher RPMs if warmer air is detected, actually lowering engine's output even further.
Proven over and over and over again, with actual dyno tests with sheets that have been posted.
Add in the effect of warm air increases the possibility of detonation/pre-ignition of the fuel (most notably at mid-range speeds) and a cone filter without any sort of cool air protection is just asking for blown motors and reduced power.
And remember the ECU adjusts timing based on air temp in the AFM and DEI, actually retarding timing at higher RPMs if warmer air is detected, actually lowering engine's output even further.
05-11-05, 12:54 PM
#29
Originally Posted by TOOSHORT_88
Okay then, what about the if you got rid of the stock air box put in a k&n cone filter, but kept the stock plastic piece that brings in fresh air to your cone filter is that enough fresh air for any hp gains or %?
this would probably bring it to about a stock performance level, if that.
by making a simple enclosure for the filter and feeding it with cool air you will notice gains or by placing the filter outside of the engine bay completely with as short and least curvy pipe as possible you will also notice gains.
05-11-05, 01:04 PM
#30
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honestly........with the following mods my fiancee's car made 150 RWHP.....
RB header, RB presilencer, Apex N1 dual( REPLACED WITH OLD-SCHOOL HKS CATBACK), Apex-i intake, fiero e-fan, MSD sci, , Apex-i SAFC (tuned 12:1), Pineapple racing sleeves. That is the most you can do without porting IMO....
I was thinking of MOLDING a hood scoop for the intake RIGHT ON THE hood but I am not sure it will work.... My other Idea is to drive with my headlights up ALL THE TIME and drill a hole on the back of the FTP opening to allow cold air in there....but again I am not sure it will work.
RB header, RB presilencer, Apex N1 dual( REPLACED WITH OLD-SCHOOL HKS CATBACK), Apex-i intake, fiero e-fan, MSD sci, , Apex-i SAFC (tuned 12:1), Pineapple racing sleeves. That is the most you can do without porting IMO....
I was thinking of MOLDING a hood scoop for the intake RIGHT ON THE hood but I am not sure it will work.... My other Idea is to drive with my headlights up ALL THE TIME and drill a hole on the back of the FTP opening to allow cold air in there....but again I am not sure it will work.
Last edited by Madrx7racer; 05-11-05 at 01:08 PM.
05-11-05, 01:05 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Madrx7racer
honestly........with the following mods my fiancee's car made 150 RWHP.....
RB header, RB presilencer, Apex N1 dual( REPLACED WITH OLD-SCHOOL HKS CATBACK), Apex-i intake, fiero e-fan, MSD sci, , Apex-i SAFC (tuned 12:1), Pineapple racing sleeves. That is the most you can do without porting IMO....
RB header, RB presilencer, Apex N1 dual( REPLACED WITH OLD-SCHOOL HKS CATBACK), Apex-i intake, fiero e-fan, MSD sci, , Apex-i SAFC (tuned 12:1), Pineapple racing sleeves. That is the most you can do without porting IMO....
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
05-11-05, 01:11 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by iSP33D-for-J3SUS
What is porting?
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
http://www.pineappleracing.com/ProdSvcs.html
05-11-05, 01:14 PM
#33
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I like those racing sleeves. Do you know where I can get some pics for a nub like me on inserting them? Increase air flow!!! Must increase air flow!! POWER!!!
Sorry, I lost it there...
but seriously I don't even know where those go, pics would help.
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
Sorry, I lost it there...
but seriously I don't even know where those go, pics would help.
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
05-11-05, 01:24 PM
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I had one on my old TII but i honestly don't see how it would help airflow. When the headlights are down the back of the cover is bent or ROUNDED to avoid rought sharp edges and there is very little room for air to flow....when the headlights are up you ain't got a single bit of air going in. that's why I wanted a lil hood scoop right above the air filter. in other words the headlight covers are useless for anything other than cosmetics.
05-11-05, 01:29 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by Karack
you have to modify the headlight frame and hood seal to allow air to flow through, and although the headlight obstructs the path when it is up there is still airflow through that area, it just seems that it wouldn't get much past.
05-11-05, 01:30 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by Karack
you have to modify the headlight frame and hood seal to allow air to flow through, and although the headlight obstructs the path when it is up there is still airflow through that area, it just seems that it wouldn't get much past.
05-11-05, 01:33 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by iSP33D-for-J3SUS
This is turning into a really good thread... I think it should be stickied or something.
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
05-11-05, 01:37 PM
#42
when you trim the seal it creates a path for air to enter the box, the headlight may be in the flow path, it won't force air in but it still draws cool air.
if you really wanted to create a more forced induction setup all around you can remove the FTP on the right also as you said so you have airflow when the headlight is up.
if you really wanted to create a more forced induction setup all around you can remove the FTP on the right also as you said so you have airflow when the headlight is up.
05-11-05, 01:43 PM
#43
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Karack
if you really wanted to create a more forced induction setup all around you can remove the FTP on the right also as you said so you have airflow when the headlight is up.
There is a large metal panel behind the headlight that would need to butcherd to get any additional airflow from removing the FTP, as well as either driving with the headlight up, or removed.
05-11-05, 01:46 PM
#44
that is what i meant Mark, it would require cutting an air duct in the panel behind the FTP.
there is no easy way to create a cold air intake system without cutting a hole somewhere in the skirt.
if there is a good method of creating a cold air induction without doing some fancy modifications i would like to see it archived.
there is no easy way to create a cold air intake system without cutting a hole somewhere in the skirt.
if there is a good method of creating a cold air induction without doing some fancy modifications i would like to see it archived.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 05-11-05 at 01:50 PM.
05-11-05, 01:46 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by Icemark
No, there is already a thread in the 2nd gen archive on building a beefy non turbo that should have been read before this thread was even created.
...the link labeled SEARCH( in my first post) is the BEEFY NA thread.
05-11-05, 01:56 PM
#47
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Madrx7racer
lol.....just "no" ...the link labeled SEARCH( in my first post) is the BEEFY NA thread.
...the link labeled SEARCH( in my first post) is the BEEFY NA thread.
05-11-05, 01:58 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by Karack
that is what i meant Mark, it would require cutting an air duct in the panel behind the FTP.
buy the Fc2000 headlights from Higgi, mold them in and make one of the right holes into a ram air intake....like this:
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