TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

well guys for some more info a while back i rebuilt my motor and did some other minor mods to it well ill be taking it to my mechanic (Alex Lopez) from Lopez Racing hell be replacing the brake master cylinder because it failed alternator i had asked him since hes already working on the car to just throw in the T04B turbo and 40mm wastegate i have and to do all the oil lines in SS braided so he said ok so tmw its going in and coming out slow lol until break in is finished

i know you guys are going to ask about fuel.... i thought of that to so i have
720 secondarys
SAFC
Walbro 255lph
and a FPR but havent decided on which one to go with thinking the aeremotive

but until i can afford FMIC ill be boosting about 9 pounds after this project its going to be a DD and save some cash until i can go fmic so lets see how everything works out and wish me the best of luck heres to follow up youll see a pic of the turbo and wastegate there.... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...2&page=1&pp=15

let me know what you guys think
TwEaK

BlaCkPlaGUE

The experts here are going to tell you that you'll need a standalone if you do anything past the stock turbo. They're also going to say (most likely) that you HAVE to do this step, the safc will not be good enough.

I've always wondered if a fuel controller would be good enough for a larger turbo, I've been told it works, but not very well? What does mr lopez have to say about that?

bingoboy

the turbo upgrades done with AFM and stock ecu still in place in japan would make you cry lol.

one step at a time. baby steps if need be heheh. this is why my turbo is a seperate car from the daily driver. i give it a projected completion time for 5 years +/- 3years

BlaCkPlaGUE

Yea I heard that japan is the land of piggybacks, most of them never use a standalone, let alone know what it is. I think I know why though, probably becuase they need the stock ecu for emissions, since its so intense there. Then again, pushing shitloads of power isn't exactly emissions friendly, but maybe they modify that as well heh..

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

well alex says if i have the right stuff ill be able to do just fine he has one of the best dynos in the world directly brought from Australia he says when everything is done that hell throw it on the dyno and play with it for a while hes got a wideband on the dyno so hell be keep an eye on that but other than that i let the man do his job lol =D
TwEaK

bingoboy

they're local brand standalones also cost 3-5x as much as ours supposedly. look now we've jacked Tweaked's thread :P


is that a homegrown manifold? and are you planning to go with the greddy kit fmic?

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

i plan to go with a custom setup because i wanna run the piping a certain way gonna go with one of those ebay intercoolers friend got one for his Srt-4 and its actually pretty sturday im happy with it...
TwEaK

tcrown420

Im sorry but Alex Lopez has a terrible rep. Ive heard a few terror stories of him blowing engines up on the dyno. I know i could be wrong, but theres usually some truth in gossip. Be careful

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

ive heard alot of rumors also but hes worked on all 4 of my rx7's and there all running like a champ hes right now working on my dads 20b project with GT42 turbo full standalone system thats coming out very nice... he rebuild my stepmom's 94 rx7 with single turbo setup and also running like a champ..... he did a rebuild/clutch on my brothers 93 rx7 and hes also running good he had previously done work for my car before i blew it and i rebuild the motor myself to learn more about the motor installed everything myself im dropping it off at his shop for SS oil lines/upgraded turbo/downpipe again hes explained to me hes just tired of working with kids every time hes worked on a kids car and it comes out of the shop doing great as soon as the kids let it rip or drive the car like it shouldnt be driven aka abusing the car and they break something automatically asume that it was him and then they go and talk ****.... ive ignored all that i know alot of people out there putting down 475whp on a 1st gen motor built and dynoed by alex so i know hes a man of his word and he knows what hes doing.... now oviously i cant say o well he knows what hes doing because of that one car theres several cars that hes done that come out with big numbers and still have reliability and after all the work hes done on my familys car im happy with the work........ but other than that for my b-day this july 27th im gonna try to save up the cash i get and get a microtech lt8 but thats all in the later future lets see.... thanks again everyone
TwEaK

ultradef

Its not the fuel that is a problem when running the stock ECU with a bigger aftermarket turbo...that can easily be controlled with a piggyback (especially with 720cc secondaries where you don't have to worry as much about staging). TIMING is the big concern, thats what will blow your motor up most likely. A wideband won't tell you anything about that. It can definitely be done without a standalone, but you have to be careful and conservative.

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

ill make a note of that thanks i know you have to play with the timing not shure if you have to advance or retard but im kinda pissed now i cant find the 720;s i had in a ziplock bag in my room..... so pissed but w/e lets see
TwEaK

Bukwild

550/720 cannot handle a boost spike. Also buy yourself a LM1 wideband. This will help with seeing how your car is performing on the street under real driving conditions. This will be very helpful when using a piggyback. Also how do you plan to keep a full to4b running a 9lbs? I bet you will not be able to keep it at 9lbs doing a 3rd to 4th gear pull. You might want to check the for sale section because standalones are getting cheaper each day around here. Just something to think about. You can spend 1k on the ems or 1k on a rebuild. Which one do you want to buy first?

ultradef

You will most definitely want to retard your overall timing (at the CAS) a couple of degrees. Hopefully your tuner has experience with aftermarket turbos on piggybacks and will know how much to retard. The problem is that the stock ECU won't continue to retard timing for anything above 8 psi or so.

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

well ill have external wastegate 40mm so i dont think ill have boost creep it will be controled for right now threw the wastegate the spring in the wastegate can only hold 5psi so when i start boosting 5 pounds wastegate automatically opens not allowing it to build anymore boost.... thats for break in and if i have to leave it like that for a while then i will till i can afford the standalone...my friend bought a wideband he says if i purchase the 02 sensor hed be more than willing to use it on my car and we can play with the SAFC a bit right now its gonna be set to run rich for break in after that rest of the stuff gets done so that give me time to save up for standalone...
TwEaK

RX_AV8TR

Lopez is right, that's what we used to do back when Haltech and PF-CON were the only choice and there was no $$$ for it, so once he's done tunning it don't touch that boost ****...I broke a couple of motors like that, specially if yours is an '87, the '89+ ecu cycle can handle that a lot better, can't remember the parameters but an '87-'88 will blow up a lot sooner than an '89+.
Definitely get an EGT, fuel press meter and a HAL meter...they'll warn you with plenty of time to let off the gas before killing your new engine.

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

well i have a Greddy EGT gauge Greddy Boost Gauge oil pressure gauge/water temp gauge/volt gauge and gonna borrow my friends wideband so.... i think everything should go fine

RX_AV8TR

Think about getting fuell press too, it warns you way before EGT and stoich, you see the inj cycle go to 100% then fuel press starts dropping...time to back off, long before you start seeing lean.