going to look at 87 GXL, possible blown coolant seal
09-23-03, 01:49 PM
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going to look at 87 GXL, possible blown coolant seal
this weekend im going to look at a 87 GXL, 1xxk miles, perfect body/interior (or so they say) but "somethings wrong with the engine"
thats about all the info i got..im interested mainly because my 86 GXL's got 80k on it and engine, but the body is crap
what would be the signs of a blown coolant seal, because among those vague descriptions, he said something about the coolant seal being blown.....the guy sounds SEMI 7-competant
can you drive it with a blwn seal? how can i make sure
ill post more when i know more this weekend
the main draw is that they want 350 bucks....or less!
thats about all the info i got..im interested mainly because my 86 GXL's got 80k on it and engine, but the body is crap
what would be the signs of a blown coolant seal, because among those vague descriptions, he said something about the coolant seal being blown.....the guy sounds SEMI 7-competant
can you drive it with a blwn seal? how can i make sure
ill post more when i know more this weekend
the main draw is that they want 350 bucks....or less!
09-23-03, 02:52 PM
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yeah, the only thing is the drive is.....4 HOURS!!
the "finder" is my bro in law
so it'd prolly be impossible to drive that long...or maybe i can stop every 20 minutes to wait for it to cool down...
the "finder" is my bro in law
so it'd prolly be impossible to drive that long...or maybe i can stop every 20 minutes to wait for it to cool down...
09-23-03, 02:53 PM
#4
Or you can try this:
Coolant Seal Fix(Temporary)
If you're interested in what is to be considered a temporary fix, read on.
The recipe: two cans of Block Weld and some Purple Power degreaser from Pep Boys. The Block Weld is a clear liquid with copper granules blended in.
The process takes *hours* but can be very worthwhile! Step 1: Clean the heck out of the cooling system - drain the radiator, fill with water and degreaser, run the motor until warm. Step 2: Repeat 5 or 6 more times. Step 3: Drain the radiator, fill with water only and run the motor until warm. Step 4: Repeat 2 or 3 times. You must rinse the system with water until no degreaser is left inside, this is *very* important. Step 5: When you are sure that the cooling system is very clean inside, refill with water plus two cans of Block Weld (no anti-freeze). Run the motor until warm (about 30 minutes). This hardens the Block Weld where the water is leaking into the motor. Do not rev the motor into high RPM during this process!
Step 6: Leave the motor off for a minimum of three hours. Step 7: Drive for 20-30 minutes in the local area to make sure that the repair has worked. Keep the RPM down! If successful, drain a small amount of water from the radiator and add some anti-freeze. If it's still leaking water into the engine, add another bottle of Block Weld and run the engine for 20-30 minutes. Let stand for three hours again. Test drive again. Step 8: Drive the car around like you used to... assuming that the process worked!
This process can be a real pain to perform because you have to start the motor to accomplish the warm ups during the steps. Don't forget to pull the fuse when you turn the motor over to push out the water prior to each start up. Cups and cups of water came out of my motor throughout the process! I have been driving the car pretty hard since the temporary fix and it has held up well. It now starts easily, has plenty of power, and hasn't needed any water to be added to the system since I added the Block Weld (about two months ago). It was a lot easier to do this temporary fix than to go out and buy another motor/car, especially since my other one is almost done.
If your motor is shot (like mine was) you've got nothing to lose. If it works for you thank Paul Yaw at YawPower. His crappy little shop truck has been driven pretty hard for two years after this same kind of temporary fix. He claims that his truck's motor was blowing even more water out of it than mine was.
If you follow the directions on the can of Block Weld, it will not work for this type of repair! Follow the steps listed above. Be very aggressive in your efforts to clean the inside of the cooling system.
Coolant Seal Fix(Temporary)
If you're interested in what is to be considered a temporary fix, read on.
The recipe: two cans of Block Weld and some Purple Power degreaser from Pep Boys. The Block Weld is a clear liquid with copper granules blended in.
The process takes *hours* but can be very worthwhile! Step 1: Clean the heck out of the cooling system - drain the radiator, fill with water and degreaser, run the motor until warm. Step 2: Repeat 5 or 6 more times. Step 3: Drain the radiator, fill with water only and run the motor until warm. Step 4: Repeat 2 or 3 times. You must rinse the system with water until no degreaser is left inside, this is *very* important. Step 5: When you are sure that the cooling system is very clean inside, refill with water plus two cans of Block Weld (no anti-freeze). Run the motor until warm (about 30 minutes). This hardens the Block Weld where the water is leaking into the motor. Do not rev the motor into high RPM during this process!
Step 6: Leave the motor off for a minimum of three hours. Step 7: Drive for 20-30 minutes in the local area to make sure that the repair has worked. Keep the RPM down! If successful, drain a small amount of water from the radiator and add some anti-freeze. If it's still leaking water into the engine, add another bottle of Block Weld and run the engine for 20-30 minutes. Let stand for three hours again. Test drive again. Step 8: Drive the car around like you used to... assuming that the process worked!
This process can be a real pain to perform because you have to start the motor to accomplish the warm ups during the steps. Don't forget to pull the fuse when you turn the motor over to push out the water prior to each start up. Cups and cups of water came out of my motor throughout the process! I have been driving the car pretty hard since the temporary fix and it has held up well. It now starts easily, has plenty of power, and hasn't needed any water to be added to the system since I added the Block Weld (about two months ago). It was a lot easier to do this temporary fix than to go out and buy another motor/car, especially since my other one is almost done.
If your motor is shot (like mine was) you've got nothing to lose. If it works for you thank Paul Yaw at YawPower. His crappy little shop truck has been driven pretty hard for two years after this same kind of temporary fix. He claims that his truck's motor was blowing even more water out of it than mine was.
If you follow the directions on the can of Block Weld, it will not work for this type of repair! Follow the steps listed above. Be very aggressive in your efforts to clean the inside of the cooling system.
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09-29-03, 10:54 AM
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i looked at it yesterday......not bad
but I definately wont be driving it home...the brake master cylinder is gone (??) and some jackass left the oil filler cap off, the car has been sitting for a year and a half
but the upside is ill be getting it for LESS than 300 bucks
and its not a GXL, its a sport with 5 lug wheels and a sunroof
i think its still worth it, though
but I definately wont be driving it home...the brake master cylinder is gone (??) and some jackass left the oil filler cap off, the car has been sitting for a year and a half
but the upside is ill be getting it for LESS than 300 bucks
and its not a GXL, its a sport with 5 lug wheels and a sunroof
i think its still worth it, though
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