Alrighty guys, I have done some research and the conclusion that I have come to is as follows; I am going to order this part http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...1&ecu=S5NA#mop

for my 1990 5spd RX7 GxL and this should completely eliminate limp mode due to the MOP failure. I am an electronics technicain with great soldering skills, so I dont forsee an issue with the physical chip swap.

My plan is to leave the pump exactly as it is (dead but still hooked up and mounted) but I am going to go with the premix at every fillup option.

My question is, CAN I leave the OMP installed? Or do I NEED to take it out and install the block off plate?

Thanks for any input.

 

i also went with a rtek chip when i damaged my omp. But i went with a block off kit since you still want to remove the lines and clean it up. its only like under $40 for a clean kit, and a hour pulling the manifold to mount everything.

you could probably leave it, unplug it, and cap off the lines for short term, but id do everything for long term.

 

Ineteresting, so going MOP removal on an Rtek is bypassing a fried circuit on the ECU all together? In other words the N370 ECU I replaced because it had fried MOP circuits I could have saved for my Rtek upgrade and simply gone with MOP removal?

 

you can leave the OMP installed and disconnected. It will work fine like that. removing the omp and lines will be much cleaner aesthetically, but thats all.

 

i doubt mine was fried, but i damaged the s5 omp when i threw a s4 water pump assembly one which pinched the omp causing it to eventually fail = limp mode, so i decided to hell with it and went block offs and rtek chip

To answer your question, they did remove the OMP function code out of the rtek chips.

 

Cool, I think I am just going to unplug it from the harness and leave it installed for now. If I have issues with it, Ill block it off. Ill let you guys know. I have another car that I drive to work, so it is going to be a week or so till I can order/install the Rtek, but I will let you guys know what happens.

 

I wouldn't count on that. The code is removed, but with circuits fried, there is no real way to know if the ECU will work when it comes back.

Additionally, If I was at Pocketlogger and a fried ECU came in, I wouldn't touch it...

OTOH, several guys have replaced the fried parts and restored functionality. A repaired ECU would be able to be Rtek'd just fine.

 

Yes, you can leave the MOP installed. It will still inject oil at some rate, depending on where the stepper motor left the adjuster set. You might want to try adjusting it to a low level as a safety backup to premixing.

 

Makes perfect sense thanks for the info

 

Yeah, see... my ECU is fine. Its just my OMP that is bad. I took the ECU apart and checked all the ICs for physical damage, and checked the resistors and diodes with a meter. All the people who have the ECU issue have burned up spots on the board, and since I didn't have that, I just double checked. I guess another way to check it is to clear the code by resetting it, and then if the code stays cleared, you're good to go. If you clear it and you still get the flashes.... something may have burned up in the ECU. I don't want to pay 1500 for a new OMP and I don't want to spend 100 on one that "may" work for a little while. I am looking for a long term fix, and I think what has been discussed here should do the trick.

 

That's what I thought initially because I didn't initially see the burn marks, I had to actually use a magnifying glass at which point I then noticed the telltale signs of the failed components. Since you checked the resistors, you probably caught it early enough through.