rxspeed87

well I think it is time for a rebuild
not a needed one just me and my quest for more speed
what would be a better option
want to keep the 6 port N/A motor but curious should I bridge port the inner housing and the port out the outer housing a little or just go with a good street port
this is going to be a daily driver for me and I need to get atleast 100k miles out of it
you can make a decent bridge port without cuttin the water seal right?

fc3s.org

If you plan on getting 100K out of it, you had better do a mild port or no port at all. The more you port it, but more HP it will have, and the faster it will wear out. Of course this all depends on how you drive it, and how well it is tuned. But generally speaking, porting means less life. A bridgeport usually doesen't get more than 30K if you are lucky.

rxspeed87

was just thinking along the lines of a mild bridge port not a J bridge or anything
as for my driving I pull a lot of freeway miles doing about 2-2.3 k most the trip
but I like to go fast when I want


has anyone heard about or tried Tri-points Half bridge?

Agent_D

iTrader: (2)

go with a street port, it should last you that long or longer. bridge wont last long at all like he said about 30k miles

rxspeed87

how much power can be gained on a street port?
my goal is to be hitting the 220-250hp range
isn't the whole 6 port thing like a bridge port also?


and lookin at my dipstick I think it might be time for an oil change
pulled my dip out and found 2 bubbles in there
should I be worried?

SuperchargedRex

And remember, if you're flowing more air than you'll need more fuel. I don't know if the stock 460cc/min injectors will be enough for you, you might want to consider a pair of 550cc/min secondary injectors from a TII, its a straight swap. Of course, this might make you run too rich, so an add on controller like the Apexi S-AFC might be a good solution, rather than going the full Haltech route.

It was actually the additional fuel upgrades that dissuaded me from porting the motor I'm having rebuilt now; I didn't want to get into that much more money.

Food for thought.

RotaryMan88

The majority of us in the forum will be telling you Street port. The bridge porting doesn't last more then about 30-35K miles, and its not easy to maintain in the city(low RPM driving is NOT a bridge ports best friend!). If I were you, just get it street ported to fit the rest of your mods, if you have stock intake and exhaust, the porting isn't really going to do anything for you. Get a mild street port and be done with it! Streetporting will still give you about 20 to 30HP depending on your other mods. Bridgeporting is for race only really!

fcturbo2

I agree!..go with streetport and you MIGHT still pass smog!..usually any type of porting is smog illegal.

RotaryMiata

A bridged motor damn near idles at 2-2.3k rpm's... And they don't like to be driven anywhere but on the track; bridges are real hateful in traffic. Not to mention that your car will smell like a rolling gas station.

Stick with the street port if anything at all -- I'd just smooth the intake runners, not open anything up.

Better fuel economy, better power, low impact on emissions, and still very, very driveable.

13B2QuIcKNy

first of all.. i voted street port but bridge port can be the answer if youre looking for that hp gain that u wont get with street port... and if thats tha case.. go 4 port bridge and switch to carb... youll get the most out of the engine like that .. thats if u want that kinda hp and idle around 1200 ... and another thing bridge ports last way more than 30,000 miles... ive had my 12a bridge 4pt for way more than that... and even tho its not the daily driver anymore... im happy wit it.. it runs low 14's high 13's and its all the naturally aspirated power ill ever want

rxspeed87

damn someone brought this back from the dead


but when I was asking about the bridge port I wasn't refering to a j-bridge or whatever it is called where you make a huge port

but open up the stock ports a little and then add just a small bridge, I guess they call it a half bridge

Agent_D

iTrader: (2)

i heard with hurley apex seals a bridge can last from 80-100k

i just heard, not positive though lol

SLOWT2

my t2 engine is going out this winter for a stage 2 street port, so i would go with a heavy street port

goodspeed

I just got 700 miles on my large street ported turbo.

All I have to say is DAMN.....even not getting under boost, the port is a difference of night and day vs. a non-ported motor.

Go with a large streetport and you wont be dissapointed.

It idles rock steady at 900rpms, doesnt smell......to bad and sounds pretty badass.

TurboSmoke

i would vote but for some reason it says my account is in valid oh well. n e ways. if you want power with not so good reliability go PP if you want a slight power increase with better reliability go street. just remember the bigger you go the less reliable it is.

Blue_GTU

I was also thinking about a street port but who do dose the best job for your $$$.. u know do it right the first time but dont want to break the bank either.. I have a little over 200,000 miles on my car (still running strong ) but have to start looking in to rebuilding the motor.. any suggestions..

rxspeed87

well now I forgot I started this post


what I am going to do is save up for a j-spec and go from there....

then maybe if I ever get the time to rebulid the motor send it out to have a port job done to it

breesej

The bride is what fails, not the seals. Apex seals have no interation with the bridge, it's the side and corner seals that visit the bridge area. Like I said, the housing fails, not the seals in most BP applications.

A PP motor will last much longer than a BP motor.

Rotary Racer

I would just do a street port all the way around, this will keep you reliable and if you tune it right you should still pass smog (don’t quote me on that). If you want a killer motor and don’t mind spending the cash this is what I would do. Buy the lightweight racing rotors from Racing Beat (these are series 5 rotors higher compression lighter than yours, and have been lightened up even more), turbo rotor housing (better exhaust port), and a street port. This will yield you some good power . From there your only restrictions are the series 4 intake so you can ether swap to a series 5 (heard it’s a pain in the ***) or go carb. Whatever way you go with your induction you are going to need some more fuel with the higher compression rotors and the more air. If you stay FI time to get an Apexi or similar product to tune your fuel curve. Have fun and keep the N/A pride alive!! Peace

hawk 7

iTrader: (2)

This is over a year old and the guy said he is still saving for a J-spec.

Rotary Racer

Damn sorry for posting my .02

Rotary Racer

Damn sorry for posting my .02

Barwick

peripheral port all the way.. definitely.. screw reliability.. just go wherever you want to go FASTER

hawk 7

iTrader: (2)

Did not mean to sound like an ***, I was just pointing out that people are replying to help this guy out and the post is over a year old. And he is thinking about going in a different direction.

rxspeed87

I think I might need to go a different direction

if I was staying N/A I would but I think my motor is eating coolant so I need a motor quick.... cheaper to buy j-spec then to buy a new N/A motor

plus more power....

I love the N/A but I know for all out power can't beat a turbo


and I was saving for a j-spec but things got in the way.... now that I might NEED that new motor there is no stopping me