GTU_FAN

Here are some tips, ditch all the stock speakers, DO NOT use the stock wiring. It sucks, its old. Buy NEW wiring. The stock speaker mounts were designed for stock speakers... I cant remember how big those are but they are probably no bigger then 5". So if you want bigger component speakers, like the standard 6 1/4" you will need to make some. I just used a jig saw to make some out of cheap 1/4" pressboard. Its time consuming but absolutely necessary. The rear speaker towers are well designed, with foam underneath the speakers which helps insulate the sound. Just LEAVE the foam in there. The holes in the front doors for the speakers are too small you have to cut them out to fit bigger 6 1/4". Not the metal, the carboard! Also the speaker covers are too flush but if you get new speakers you'll have covers for those anyway. And be prepared to unscrew a lot of interior plastic if you want to hide your new wiring and also be prepared to get cramped trying to feed the NEW wiring through rubber grommets in the firewall and doors. Anything else you wanna know just PM me

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

If you seal the 8 inchs on the rear, use an amp, and X-over; yes you can get some mid bass out of them.

drft_180sx

KNOFS seems to know his stuff...also what is your front stage? why dont you have the type X comp system in the front? Speakers in the rear of a vehichle is only good for rear fill.


MY SETUP (Soon):

Clarion DXZ825 CD Player
MB Quart 3-Way Component System (6", 4", 1") w/Crossover
Kicker RMB8 (8" Midbass Drivers) <-- Going in the Strut Towers
Profile Clarus 640 (75W*4 RMS)


Hopefully this will give me the nice clean sound i'm looking for. Opinions/suggestions are welcome!

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

That sounds like a nice system

I would do the MB 4 inches and tweeter on the kickpanels (custom fiberglass enclosure), the Kicker mid basses, I would buy them in 8 ohms, and hooked them up mono.

I am no expert, I just played\worked with this stuff a long time ago; but by no means an expert. And as I said before, everybody likes different things; but I do like your plans\systems for the FC.

drft_180sx

Thanks fo the suggestions. Do you know any 3-way amps that will be like $100, to hook up the 8" mono? Also, i dont think i can fit kickpods in my car, so ill be going for "doorpods" instead...

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

So how big of speakers will the front holes fit? I really don't want to cut anything at all..I know I'm getting 6.5" Infinity Kappas (sp) in the back and I think I can cut those plastic things to hold them since they are easily replaced. But the front replacing stuff back to stock would be too hard. So what size fits up front?
-sorry for my thread necromancy ><

Cosmo_TT

iTrader: (11)

hey smog did you see mine when you came over i have 5 1/4 components in the door
they fit great

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

Never saw em. They fit in stock location?

Havoc

or just make some pods to fix then to the door skin, then just need to screw it down.

Personally rear fill is not required, once you have a good enough front stage you wont need rear fill (Except for subs)

Also as said by someone b4 running new speaker wires is a must, the stock ones are crap.

also why do ppl not want to make propper sub boxes for their boot and muck about with tinny little 8" ?? sure their more wieght, but its not huge if done right.

Ive got twin 12's big amps, Cap,s etc, but I designed it all so that when I go to the drags I can have it all pulled out in about 10 min. .... still each to their own

Cosmo_TT

iTrader: (11)

umm if the stock location is in between the two spots where you grab the handles to shut the door

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

Stock location is where your feet go. So how big????

xtremeskier97

No offense...but that interior is ghastly!

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

Still no answer. What size can I put up front without cutting away at my car?

Icemark

The stock wiring is fine for anything up to around 50 watts RMS (not to be confused with 50 watts Peak as most head units put out).

It is a true waste of time to run new wires for a amplified system that is not putting out at least 50 watts per channel (RMS), and as a former IASCA, NACA and CAN Judge; I can tell you that you will not hear a difference, using the best $5 foot OFC wiring or the stock wiring on less than 50 watts.

Icemark

Stock door panel speaker holes are 160mm (or 6 inch) speaker holes. Some manufactures 160mm speakers are incorrectly sold as 6 1/5 speakers, but a true 6 1/2 speaker is 170mm, so check the box for sure.

Dash speakers are 4 1/2 inch (a size almost unheard of being sold in north america), but a regular 4 inch speaker will fit.

and this has been covered countless times. You may wish to use the search function next time, instead of bumping!