2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

General HP question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-13-16, 08:06 PM
  #1  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
General HP question

About 2 weeks ago I got a 88 Tii. It needs some fixes mainly a rear caliper and new gaskets and vac caps to fix a couple of leaks. Right now on the car it has a walbro 255 pump, 550/750 injectors, full emissions removal and a/c removed, still has p/s. Not on the car I have a fmic, microtech lt8s, and turbosmart manual boost controller. I was wondring at 10psi, what the general hp would be for a setup like that, if you need anymore info about my car for a round-a-bout number, I'll be happy to provide that info. Until I can get it dyno tuned once everything is on it, Im going to street tune for the time being.
Old 03-13-16, 08:36 PM
  #2  
Moderator

iTrader: (3)
 
j9fd3s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,994
Received 2,691 Likes on 1,905 Posts
stock turbo stock port should be in the 220-230rwhp area. which is enough to be fun. once you've done the exhaust, the next bottleneck is the small stock compressor on the turbo.
Old 03-13-16, 08:55 PM
  #3  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
got ya, right now I have a coksport catback exhaust, and no cats. I know I can push the stock turbo so far. I wouldnt go past 10 psi until I rebuild with full bridge port and all proper supporting mods along with bigger tubo. Right now the engine is all stock and added an fcd because when I drove it last I hit fuel cut and about smoked my face on the steering wheel, but know with the LT8s the fcd is no longer necessary.
Old 03-13-16, 09:01 PM
  #4  
My job is to blow **** up

iTrader: (8)
 
lastphaseofthis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: palmyra Indiana
Posts: 2,900
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
were u at
Old 03-13-16, 09:25 PM
  #5  
Rotorhead

 
Evil Aviator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes on 33 Posts
FC3S Pro v2.0: From Mild 2 Wild - Power
Old 03-13-16, 10:00 PM
  #6  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by lastphaseofthis
were u at
about 15-20 min south of Anderson
Old 03-13-16, 10:03 PM
  #7  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
Thanks for the link, I'm printing this off at work tomorrow.
Old 03-14-16, 12:28 PM
  #8  
Senior Member

iTrader: (3)
 
Jimmy2222's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NL, Canada
Posts: 493
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
FC3S Pro has some great tech info. Will cover virtually any of the bases you need until you get into more advanced/newer stuff//bigger numbers.

I suggest you favorite teh site.
Old 03-14-16, 12:43 PM
  #9  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (23)
 
DR_Knight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,354
Received 147 Likes on 126 Posts
Max boost to run is 12 on stock turbo. Intercooler upgrade With a wideband and safc, you should be fine. Id estimate 250to the wheels.
Would rather recommend you getting a rtek 1.7 for your setup and you can get one for cheap.

If serious about Bridgeport, you'd still need bigger injectors, much bigger turbo, exhaust manifold, custom inter cooler hot pipe, custom turbo inlet, custom down pipe. Don't know how knowledgable you are with these so just had to include some food for thought. Plus the price of a full rebuild and you're in more than a couple grand.

Can hit 280 with hybrid turbo, rtek ecu, wideband and safc maxing about 14 psi using boost controller. Hybrids can be found for like $400 and I'm unsure of max boost limit of say a bar stage 3, but with the microtech you should be able to break the limit of the stock boost sensor of 15 psi

Last edited by DR_Knight; 03-14-16 at 12:46 PM.
Old 03-14-16, 01:34 PM
  #10  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
The injectors I plan to run when I'm fully built, will be ID2000 primary and secondaries, dual walbro 450lph fuel pumps, new fuel rails. It already have a fuel pressure regulator on it. my exhause will be full 3" turbo back, as for what turbo to run, thats yet to be determined, the exhaust mani I was looking at a CXracing mani like this one cxracing.com: CXRacing 11 Gauge Thick Stainless Steel Turbo Manifold For 86-92 Mazda RX-7 RX7 FC 13B

Last edited by rx7b13; 03-14-16 at 01:40 PM.
Old 03-14-16, 01:49 PM
  #11  
Turbo power, activate!

iTrader: (7)
 
Black Knight RX7 FC3S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 1,708
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
My setup is good for around 260hp, completely stock turbo at 12psi. S5 turbo with the higher compression s5 engine with a "large" street port.
Old 03-14-16, 02:04 PM
  #12  
Rotary Freak

iTrader: (10)
 
DC5Daniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Peachtree City, GA
Posts: 1,631
Received 84 Likes on 63 Posts
Originally Posted by rx7b13
The injectors I plan to run when I'm fully built, will be ID2000 primary and secondaries, dual walbro 450lph fuel pumps, new fuel rails. It already have a fuel pressure regulator on it. my exhause will be full 3" turbo back, as for what turbo to run, thats yet to be determined, the exhaust mani I was looking at a CXracing mani like this one cxracing.com: CXRacing 11 Gauge Thick Stainless Steel Turbo Manifold For 86-92 Mazda RX-7 RX7 FC 13B
Do not ruin what sounds like a decent build with a crap manifold. Pay to play. Several vendors on here make EXCELLENT manifolds, in no particular order: Turblown, Glease Man, IRP.
Old 03-14-16, 02:09 PM
  #13  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Yea that's one thing I want to stay away from is cheap stuff, I was directed to CX by a local builder. I have a cheap eBay xs powersports mani that will never see a car because I know with a build car the welds will give out. I got it back when all I did was buy crap off eBay when I wanted to turbo my gtu. I'll look into the venders you posted. The fuel rails I'm going with are full function engineering from rx7store

Last edited by rx7b13; 03-14-16 at 02:17 PM.
Old 03-14-16, 02:25 PM
  #14  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Just looked at the Glease Man mani, that thing is hardcore and better price than the Turblown and couldn't find anything on IRP

Last edited by rx7b13; 03-14-16 at 02:27 PM.
Old 03-14-16, 02:43 PM
  #15  
Rotary Freak

iTrader: (10)
 
DC5Daniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Peachtree City, GA
Posts: 1,631
Received 84 Likes on 63 Posts
Originally Posted by rx7b13
Just looked at the Glease Man mani, that thing is hardcore and better price than the Turblown and couldn't find anything on IRP
Depending on your turbo choice/needs, Turblown is the only company offering a cast manifold (shorty) which they're pairing with EFR IWG turbos. Food for thought.
Old 03-14-16, 02:55 PM
  #16  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Yea I haven't made the choice if I'm going efr or not, but was thinking of maybe a turbonetics GTK 750, that's what Kyle Mohan ran on his RX8 in Formula D before he went 20b, I also talked to a BorgWarner Rep and he gave me a catalog and I talked to my buddy who runs a shop and said he will charge me cost for a Borg.

Last edited by rx7b13; 03-14-16 at 03:07 PM.
Old 03-14-16, 04:47 PM
  #17  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (5)
 
djSL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 1,071
Received 90 Likes on 63 Posts
Depending on ultimate power goals, I'd personally go with a properly sized EFR turbo and Turblown manifold. No need to port the motor and you'll gain a huge range of power with limited lag.

Of course, you would need larger injectors and other supporting mods.
Old 03-14-16, 05:24 PM
  #18  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
This build will eventually be track only
Old 03-14-16, 10:09 PM
  #19  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Well mostly track
Old 03-15-16, 10:00 AM
  #20  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (5)
 
djSL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 1,071
Received 90 Likes on 63 Posts
That's kind of vague. This hints to me that you'd want a lower HP number with quicker spool. Once again, I'd go with an EFR set-up. I'm trying not to be biased but from all the reading I've done and the videos TURBLOWN has posted, I would definitely swing that route for my next turbo car.
Old 03-15-16, 10:08 AM
  #21  
Glease Manufacturing
iTrader: (5)
 
Glease Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Leamington, Ont
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Appreciate you taking the time to check out our products! The CDN dollar is so low right now, it's been a pleasure passing on the 32% savings to our US customers.

Here to answer any questions, john@gleasemanufacturing.com
Old 03-16-16, 09:48 AM
  #22  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by djSL
That's kind of vague. This hints to me that you'd want a lower HP number with quicker spool. Once again, I'd go with an EFR set-up. I'm trying not to be biased but from all the reading I've done and the videos TURBLOWN has posted, I would definitely swing that route for my next turbo car.
The main thing I'm after is torque. Id like the least amount of lag at the low end while still running psi through the highend. Ive ridden in some cars where once you get over 5k-6k rpms, the car just planes out and quits pulling/building psi, and thats something I don't want.

Originally Posted by Glease Man
Appreciate you taking the time to check out our products! The CDN dollar is so low right now, it's been a pleasure passing on the 32% savings to our US customers.

Here to answer any questions, john@gleasemanufacturing.com
I looked on your site and one thing I was unable to find is your efr manifold, I saw in your sig you are now offering them. Where can I find it?

Last edited by rx7b13; 03-16-16 at 09:52 AM.
Old 03-19-16, 10:42 AM
  #23  
Engine, Not Motor

iTrader: (1)
 
Aaron Cake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 110 Likes on 93 Posts
Sounds like a bridgeport is not the way to go.

If you are mostly about torque, then a bridgeport won't give it to you. What will give it to you is a conservative port with a turbo sized for the midrange.

It depends too on your power goals.
Old 03-19-16, 11:36 AM
  #24  
Rotorhead

 
Evil Aviator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes on 33 Posts
Originally Posted by rx7b13
Id like the least amount of lag at the low end while still running psi through the highend. Ive ridden in some cars where once you get over 5k-6k rpms, the car just planes out and quits pulling/building psi, and thats something I don't want.
No offense, but it sounds like you need driving lessons. See the SCCA Solo Autocross schedule for your area, go to an event, and find a good instructor who has a turbocharged car and can explain how the throttle is modulated throughout the course. This can be a walk-through, they can take you along as a passenger in their car, and/or they can ride along with you and tell you what to do. Most will help you for free at the event.

Once you fix your car, it will be perfect for learning with the current setup. I would not recommend increasing the power until you get some driving instruction, because you will then have a better idea of power goals and which aftermarket turbo to use.
Old 03-22-16, 07:42 PM
  #25  
Rotary Enthusiast

Thread Starter
 
rx7b13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: indiana
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
None taken, I've driven in Autox many times in the past, just not with this setup. As for owning a forced induction vehicle, this is my first one. When it comes to porting, I'm not going to do it right away, this engine only has 7k tops on this rebuild that the previous owner did, It would be foolish to rip it all apart when it's not needed at the moment. I understand what your saying about getting drive time in before upping the power of the car, it's been almost 10 years since I've been behind the wheel of an FC let alone on the course. As for the car that would plane out and quit pulling at topend was a 2015 WRX. As for torque, maybe I was but vague on that. When I say torque I was'nt meaning low end torque. When I refered to lowend rpms I meant for the least amount of lag my appologies, which I would imagine would a lower A/R, I beleive the HT18 A/R is .86 and I know the higher you go with the A/R the longer it takes for the turbo to spool. Idk if I'm making any sense to you. I probably sound like someone at a ice cream shop trying to order a pizza.

Last edited by rx7b13; 03-22-16 at 07:46 PM.


Quick Reply: General HP question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:09 AM.