Gauge cluster swap Pins again S4 wires to S5 cluster
#1
Thread Starter
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Gauge cluster swap Pins again S4 wires to S5 cluster
Another member emailed me this morning asking for the colors/pin layout for swaping the S5 gauge cluster with the smaller tach, into a S4 car.
Here are the what you need to move the pins to, to make a Non Turbo manual tranny S5 gauge cluster work in a 86-88 car.:
Remember, this is Non turbo, Turbo will be slightly different because of the boost wires.
So, looking at the white plug,
Pin A = green/red
Pin B = blank
Pin C = Blue
Pin D = smaller Black
Pin E = Red/green
Pin F = black/white
Pin G = Grn/white
Pin H = Blank
Pin I = Brwn/white
Pin J = Brown
Pin K = Yel/Blk
Pin L = Blk/Yellow
Black Plug:
Pin A = larger Black
Pin B = small Red/White
Pin C = Yellow/Red
Pin D = Blank
Pin E = Blank
Pin F = Yellow/White
Pin G = Blank
Pin H = Blank
Pin I = Yellow/Blue
Pin J = Grn/Black
Pin K = Large Red/White
Pin L = Tan/green
Again this is moving the pins in the plug (they unsnap by pushing the plastic tab on the female side of the plug, to the center or the plug).
The dash harness side of the plug will remain the same. Only the plugs at the back of the cluster will change.
And now people can find this by just searching for gauge cluster swap as the key words.
Here are the what you need to move the pins to, to make a Non Turbo manual tranny S5 gauge cluster work in a 86-88 car.:
Remember, this is Non turbo, Turbo will be slightly different because of the boost wires.
So, looking at the white plug,
Pin A = green/red
Pin B = blank
Pin C = Blue
Pin D = smaller Black
Pin E = Red/green
Pin F = black/white
Pin G = Grn/white
Pin H = Blank
Pin I = Brwn/white
Pin J = Brown
Pin K = Yel/Blk
Pin L = Blk/Yellow
Black Plug:
Pin A = larger Black
Pin B = small Red/White
Pin C = Yellow/Red
Pin D = Blank
Pin E = Blank
Pin F = Yellow/White
Pin G = Blank
Pin H = Blank
Pin I = Yellow/Blue
Pin J = Grn/Black
Pin K = Large Red/White
Pin L = Tan/green
Again this is moving the pins in the plug (they unsnap by pushing the plastic tab on the female side of the plug, to the center or the plug).
The dash harness side of the plug will remain the same. Only the plugs at the back of the cluster will change.
And now people can find this by just searching for gauge cluster swap as the key words.
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#9
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Yes, we all know Mark is the EE guru of the 2gen sections, so when faced with this issue I went straight to him since I knew he's already done it anyway. Wiring diagrams give me a headache
Thanks mark!
Thanks mark!
#11
Thread Starter
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by Matt22
well how do yuo adjust the rpm buzzer?
well how do yuo adjust the rpm buzzer?
Remove it from the cluster. On the back of the tach is a circuit board.
There are two pots (adjustable resistors) one metal one, and one plastic one. You want to turn the metal one towards the tach about a 1/4 turn to drop the RPM buzzer about 1000 RPM.
It is shown in the picture with the red arrow pointing to it below.
You do not want to play with the plastic one, as that one is for the calibration of the tachometer itself.
#12
So this write up In universally accepted so former s4 NA Intrument Clusters right from Canada, down to Austrailia can follow this to "upgrade" to a s5 Instrument Cluster, right?
How do we accomadate the difference If say you want the s5's NA's Cluster over the s5's Turbo. ie. Volt Guage over the Boost Guage.
B'c, If I do this, I will definetly want the s5 NA Instrument Cluster on account of the Voltage reading It features. We also know the Boost Guage is pooped If you will be running higher than normal Boost thus, the only reason as to why I wouldn't want the TII Instrument Cluster over the NA one.
How do we accomadate the difference If say you want the s5's NA's Cluster over the s5's Turbo. ie. Volt Guage over the Boost Guage.
B'c, If I do this, I will definetly want the s5 NA Instrument Cluster on account of the Voltage reading It features. We also know the Boost Guage is pooped If you will be running higher than normal Boost thus, the only reason as to why I wouldn't want the TII Instrument Cluster over the NA one.
#14
Thread Starter
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 20
From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by silverrotor
So this write up In universally accepted so former s4 NA Intrument Clusters right from Canada, down to Austrailia can follow this to "upgrade" to a s5 Instrument Cluster, right?
How do we accomadate the difference If say you want the s5's NA's Cluster over the s5's Turbo. ie. Volt Guage over the Boost Guage.
B'c, If I do this, I will definetly want the s5 NA Instrument Cluster on account of the Voltage reading It features. We also know the Boost Guage is pooped If you will be running higher than normal Boost thus, the only reason as to why I wouldn't want the TII Instrument Cluster over the NA one.
So this write up In universally accepted so former s4 NA Intrument Clusters right from Canada, down to Austrailia can follow this to "upgrade" to a s5 Instrument Cluster, right?
How do we accomadate the difference If say you want the s5's NA's Cluster over the s5's Turbo. ie. Volt Guage over the Boost Guage.
B'c, If I do this, I will definetly want the s5 NA Instrument Cluster on account of the Voltage reading It features. We also know the Boost Guage is pooped If you will be running higher than normal Boost thus, the only reason as to why I wouldn't want the TII Instrument Cluster over the NA one.
There are some differences between the Turbos and Non-turbos, I 'll post the Turbo wire up later.
#15
Originally posted by Icemark
As I said, this is for the Non turbo.
There are some differences between the Turbos and Non-turbos, I 'll post the Turbo wire up later.
As I said, this is for the Non turbo.
There are some differences between the Turbos and Non-turbos, I 'll post the Turbo wire up later.
Thanks for taking the time to writing this up...It better work.
#16
Hey Mark I would like to know which wires are for the volts guage and boost guage. I am putting an N/a S5 cluster in my TII so that I can read volts as I already have a separate boost guage and don't like not knowing the voltage output of the car. I was thinking that I can just cut the boost guage wires from behind the plug and then just soldering in a "pos" and a "neg" wire from the battery terminals. Is that a "nono" ?
#17
I had a pretty extensive thread on this when I did it about a year or so ago :
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...lectrical+help
Theres some good info in there also... My rpm buzzer does not work as well after this swap. Not that I care much, but maybe there is something in the wiring that is disabling it when swapped?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...lectrical+help
Theres some good info in there also... My rpm buzzer does not work as well after this swap. Not that I care much, but maybe there is something in the wiring that is disabling it when swapped?
#18
Lenny if that was for my question its not what I asked. I just need to know which cables are for the boost guage so I can cut them and then find the pins on the N/a cluster for the volt guage. Ah fak it I might as well just do it through looking at the FSM. Maybe I'll come back and post about it.
Santiago
Santiago
#23
I just did the swap, and my fuel guage isnt working. Is there anybody have a replacement (new or used) s5 fuel guage? Im not sure if is really the guages problem or not. Is there any way i can test it. Do you apply ground to the pin or +12? On my s4 cluster, the fuel guage would stop at 3/8, and i knew to get gas when the light came on. I have a feeling that my in tank float is binding on one of the baffles in the tank. I may have bent it when i was upgrading the pump several months ago. Now the guage just sits on E.
#24
Thanks for all the great help guys.....
I did some troubleshooting this morning. I found that i am getting all the correct ohm readings to the guage, but the guage is grounded out for some reason. As soon as i plug the black connector into the cluster, the fuel level sending wire is grounded through the guage. When these guages go out, do they groud out, or is there possibly just something not right. I know the electrical connections for the guages are made through the screws that hold the guages on, so could i have messed something up with a screw?
I did some troubleshooting this morning. I found that i am getting all the correct ohm readings to the guage, but the guage is grounded out for some reason. As soon as i plug the black connector into the cluster, the fuel level sending wire is grounded through the guage. When these guages go out, do they groud out, or is there possibly just something not right. I know the electrical connections for the guages are made through the screws that hold the guages on, so could i have messed something up with a screw?
#25
Originally posted by NZConvertible
You should learn. They're very easy to understand, and there's no way in hell you'll be able to install a MicroTech if you can't.
You should learn. They're very easy to understand, and there's no way in hell you'll be able to install a MicroTech if you can't.
NOt to worry I just bought myself a monkey.