Hey guys, i have a S5 T2, so i have a strong gas smell in my oil. when i take the cap off my oil fill neck there is raw gas smell and looks like there is beads of raw gas on the cap and top of filler neck.?

I recently removed all emissions, including rats nest (so maybe i have crankcase vented wrong?) or maybe i have the injector bleeds ran wrong. i can take pics if you guys would like

To try to fix the problem i've changed the fuel filter, injectors aren't new but i bought a reman set, ive changed both fuel rail with regulator and pulse dampner (both were not new but came from a low mile car). changed Throttle body W/ TPS which came with a UIM,
plugs and wires are new, checked both coils(both .3 to .5)

When i turn the key i do not hear my fuel pump prime. i do have a fuel pump cut, is it possible the pump of relay is bad?

The car runs ok at best, gets 13 MPG. when i pull threw the rpms, it jerks ounce in a while and when i let off the gas coming up to stop light it jerks, like a detonation issue?

It smokes white at times. i dont have a cat either. i pluged in my air fuel gauge(its just a narrow band) and it reads all the way rich..

Im new to rotarys but i think i have a good grasp on them but im lost haha. any help would be great.

oh and i did a compression test and it was 85 to 90 psi, with 3 good even pulses.

anyone know of someone good with rotarys in MN?

 

I'd look at your venting first.
Are you really seeing raw gas in the oil fill neck or is it the usual condensation mucus?

 

it could be condensation mucus. but it smells like gas.

my venting is, a line from the oil filler neck T'ed into the rear iron vent nipple then the line goes out under the car but does have a line filter and one way valve. do i need vacuum from one of the three nipples right after the throttle body?

 

What weight oil are you running. Like the old man said ::, I'd check the venting first.
It is probably condensation. When te cap has the droplets on it, pull it off and take a lighter to it away from the car. If it flares up you'll know it's raw gas.

 

ok good idea. im running 5w30 but im in MN and its like 10-20 degrees.

 

That's normal with rotaries to some extent. If you don't have a functional PCV system, then you really notice it. I can't use a PCV with my bridge ported engines (it makes the idle FAR too variable, like 1000rpm sometimes and 2000rpm other times) so I just have a breather to the inlet ducting. The oil will be a quart overfull within 1,000mi. When I do an oil change, I leave it a quart under so I can stretch the oil change out to 1500-2000mi before the oil level is overfull enough that it leaks out of the front seal when braking.

This was enough of a problem that the GTU teams developed a way to do rapid oil changes during 24-hour races.

 

so peejay, how would i put in a functioning PCV system? i have a PCV in the line that runs under my car but has no vacuum. a pic of how to hook it up would be great if at all possible.

 

Just putting the factory breather equipment back in would be the simplest way. Along with the rest of the assortment of Stuff under the intake manifold. It wasn't hurting anything and now your car runs worse.

 

problem is your car sounds like it is running pig rich, fix that and it will alleviate your fuel/oil dilution issue.

 

I juist got done putting a new fuel pump i had. i plan on going rtek with bigger injectors so i had a bigger fuel pump. im just looking to run peak to where its still safe with factory turbo for now. 9 to 11 psi is what ive been reading on the forum. ive read countless thread on people asking about there set up trying to run 14 or 15 psi on stock turbo W/ no fuel mods just a FCD.. haha needless to say i know fuel is your friend but in my case right now there just to much! thank everyone for the ideas.

 

rotary evolution, the first part of my last post didnt make it for some reason. i agree it is running stupid rich. where would you start with testing and what not? Thank you in advance, Justin

 

are you running the correct AFM for your setup? and which fuel pump did you install? if a walbro you may need an aftermarket FPR to bring fuel pressure back down to stock levels.

boost leaks will also cause rich conditions.

 

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thats the pump i installed. it says 255 lph and up to 100 psi. not sure if it really will since its a cheapo. do you think this pump will be ok without a different FPR?
i guess im not positive if i have the right AFM. it just the oem meter that was in there when i bought the car. suggestions? i dont think i have any boost leaks.

 

When that thing ***** out after 10k miles or less, you'll be sad. ^

You will need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with that fuel pump. Check out the Aeromotive A1000 and an FD or Supra TT fuel pump. This stuff isn't cheap, but not that expensive... Especially since it is for your fuel system. Do you really want to skimp on the fuel system, lean out, and blow your engine?

 

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will this pump be ok with the stock fuel system? i got the other pump as a gift.

 

If you're planning on hot rodding your car, then get a Supra, FD, or Walbro 255 lph fuel pump. You will need an adjustable FPR to lower the fuel pressure, as the stocker can't flow enough to drop fuel pressure at idle. I know this from first-hand experience.

Your AFR gauge reads rich all the time because it's a narrowband. Once again, if you're going down the hotrod road, you *should* get a wideband AFR gauge. I personally won't fool with my car without one.

You should also work on some sort of way of adjusting the AFR, which can get expensive. A piggyback can be a decent start, but it can only do so much. I used to use an Apex'i SAFC, and it sufficed for my NA w/ exhaust and intake mods, but once I started fooling with boost it no longer fit the bill. I got a full standalone ECU, and literally all I have done so far to my car is a stiffer wastegate spring, a full 3" exhaust, and a v-mount intercooler. No porting yet, no big turbo yet. Those are all in the works, but I'm at least able to support those modifications when they get here.