I havent been able to get my car to start since I brought it home (drove it 30 miles) I have replaced plugs and have tested for spark, but its been too cold to properly test for fuel although the plugs do come out wet with fuel. Also installed brand new battery

So following my trusty Haynes manual I jumped the 2 pin yellow connector near the pass side shock tower and turned the key and I could hear the pump running (great it still works). According to the mnaual the pump should turn off after a few seconds once it gets to pressure, which it is NOT. It just stays running which means it is not building adequate pressure. (car has half tank of fuel)

So I then went to the engine bay and with the pump running I can hear a Pshhhhhhhhhhhh sound (like leaking air or pressure) coming from the passenger side but don't see any fuel leaks anywhere?

I started wiggling the secondary fuel injectors and the injector closest to the front of car began leaking fuel from the top o-ring, it wasnt spraying but just leaking down the injector body, it didn't really change the leaking sound though and I couldnt feel any air escaping so I don't think thats where the Pshhhh sound is coming from.

I also pulled the vacuum line off the FPR to see if that was leaking but it was NOT. It's possible the injector may just be spraying right into the engine right?

Is there anything elese in the fuel system that could be leaking and making that sound besides the injectors? The way I understand it is that fuel comes from pump to fuel filter to primary rail to fuel rail thingy that always breaks then to secondary rail then to fuel pressure regulator and back to pump. Am I correct?

So I guess the plan is this weekend is to pull at least the secondaries and have them rebuilt and see if that stops the leaking sound. My question is do the secondary's usually give more problems and leak more than the primarys?

Could an open injector(s) be causing the car not to start and not allowing for adequate fuel pressure to build or does it sound more like a bad fuel pump?

 

Fuel runs continuously thru the fuel rail with the yellow connector jumpered and the key to ON. The sound is normal

 

Thanks.

I suppose that would make sense, that the sound I am hearing may just be the fuel passing through the system. (most likely that's the sound from out of the FPR)

But in the Haynes manual it does say that the pump should turn off after a short while with the 2 pins jumped, which it did not. Is this a typo in the book? Or could there be a flow issue with the pump?

Usually I take the manual with me to work but I don't have it with me today otherwise I would scan copy of that page.


Anothe issue that may be unrelate dto anything is after maybe 15-20 seconds with the key switched to run i get a buzzer sound from the dash that won't turn off.

I think the car is right now a little less than one quart of oil and I am pretty sure last I checked it was full on coolant but maybe I am wrong. That noise is for either the oil or the coolant low buzzer right?

 

The book is crushingly wrong. The fuel runs thru continuously. The FPR regulates the pressure in the fuel rails by bleeding off the excess pressure and sending that back to the fuel tank.

The buzzer is most likely caused by a low coolant level in the radiator. Either fill it up OR pull the wire off the sensor on top of the radiator and put it to ground. The buzz WILL stop.

EDIT: OPPS. Didn't read the whole post. Yeah, put some oil in the pan. It has a low oil level sensor.

 

Dam hailers your crushing my dreams buddy lol.

So it seems that all is working fine then, I am getting both fuel and spark but for some reason I can't get this engine to start? It's really starting to **** me off. The only thing I haven't tried is push starting it.

Also, when I am spraying starting fluid into the throttle body should I spray a **** ton or a small amount? I have heard some guys spray a whole can in there to get these cars started but I have been spraying a small amount to prevent backfires.

I have also heard some guys use brake cleaner for starting instead of starting fluid. Does brake cleaner or carb cleaner work better?

 

Go pull the carpet off around the left read strut tower. There, on the aft side of that strut tower is the fuel pump plug for a series four. Pull it apart.

Leave all other plugs and fuses in place. Get a can of starter fluid and spray into the snorkel or air filter for no more than two seconds. Then get in the car and hold the pedal to the floor and try to start it. IF it revs for a second or two and dies, then repeat this a couple more times. THEN put the fuel pump plug back together and do the two second spray job once more and start the car.

IF you do the standard deflood method of pulling the EGI fuses, it will kill the spark and in my very humble opinion that is not desireable.

Never use starter fluid to keep a engine running. It will cause excessive KNOCK/ping. To see what I mean, start your lawn mower up and spray starter fluid in it's filter. It'll rattle, rattle, rattle (knock). I say use starter fluid over other fluids.

 

Thanks Hailers.

One question though to clairfy. Right now I have the air tube disconnected from the throttle body, so

1. Should I be spraying into the throttle body

2. Should I have the throttle blades open so it is actually spraying into the manifold?

3. Could I disconnect the fuel pump relay from under the dash (yellow with black base) instead of the connector at the back near the pump? That will still keep the plugs firing also right?

Thanks again for all your help.

 

Yeah. Pulling the Circuit Opening Relay will kill fuel only.

All tubes/ducts have to be connected up. But spraying into the tube on the intake duct instead of the filte/snorkel will do as long as you put the tube back on after spraying.

Push start is fine also.