I see jo0 Hailers. Stop lurkin and help this boy out

 

ok you know your access panel? its the little black rubber gasket there see if its fucked up or if its missing. I change mine with every time i changed my pumps

 

Alternator has zip to do with it.

Have you removed the fuel line that comes from the ffuel filter and run the pump with that line off?

Remember, it's a common problem for the lines to be crossed, because the engines from Jap land come with the lines opposite the USA imported engines.


Also a heads up for LATER. The wire from the start circuit that sends power to the Circuit Opening Relay, is a white connector with six sockets. IT is loacted six inches below the brake master cylinder. On a STOCK wired non turbo car, there will be three white plugs all close together there. The one your looking for has six sockets. Wire colors are: BR, YL BG BW RL and L in one half of the plug. The other half of the plug has two BW wires in one corner.......one YL in the middle and the rest probably empty. It's the BW wires that mate with each other that are the wires your looking for. I'll add a jpg later.

On the single wire, round plug on a turbo car, it's a Black/Red wire. But you have all non turbo harnesses???

 

Mr.FC3s THats little plug on the fuel pump cover? I think thats what your talking about..? WHere is the access panel?

HAiler. You keep refering to non turbo... kinda confusing... I have a full turbo II > AS IN COMPLETE ORIGINAL 1988 Turbo II MODEL. FUll Black with fan wheels plus aero package. Want me to post my title or something?
Well its dark outside now and tom. is another day. Keep the suggestions coming and i will try them all. Ill try to explain everything as best as possible.

HAiler. I will look for that single wire round plug tomorrow since i have a TURBO MODEL.


I thought i made it clear that i have a full TURBO car. I called it a swap... because i was sent the wrong engine model. I have a s4 turbo car and the engine is JDM s5.
I didnt feel like sending it back and waiting. I need this engine running as soon as possible because I need to catch up on practice. Cant afford to loose more time. Trying to make it to some febuary events. Thats why i decided to stay with the s5.


HAiler. Tomorrow I will get dirty with the fuel line=D. EVen thought im sure its right... I mean. IS it correct what i said earlier.? Fuel filter--> Aeromotive FPR--> Secondary fuel line--> primary fuel line--> gas tank return line. THIS IS EXACTLY HOW ITS HOOKED UP>

 

Fuel lines are crossed up.

 

Sorry. I thought this was a swap as turbo into non turbo.

Anyway. Forget the round plug also.

The problem to me, seems to have something to do with what your buddy did that now causes you to be able to start the car without depressing the clutch.

I think whatever was done, has bypassed the original start circuit. That's why the Circuit Opening Relay isn't getting power when you go to start.

The path of power works like this: Turn the key to Start. Power leaves the switch and used to go thru the clutch interlock switch.........on to the Starter Cut Relay........from there to the ROUND plug I mentioned for turbo cars.........then to the small blade on the starter solenoid.

Well, the wire that runs between the Starter Cut Relay and the ROUND PLUG, has another wire spliced to it. That spliced wire runs to the Circuit Opening Relay and pulls that relay in when you hold the key to START.

I'm saying, someone has bypassed this wire b/t the Starter Cut Relay and ROUND PLUG, and that is why the circuit opening relay does not work.

A side effect of this is that the SPLICED wire not only feeds the Circuit Opening Relay but also travels over to the ECU pin 3B, and lets the ECU know your starting the engine. Without that signal on 3B, the car will be hard to start in cold weather.

I don't think the problem can be fixed from here, because someone has bypassed the normal start wiring. I/we've no idea how that was done.

I tried to show the normal path the start signal takes. I colored the path in Blue on the first and second jpgs attached.


FYI in case you didn't know: There is a Starter Cut Relay only on cars with THEFT protection. On all other cars there is a BLUE jumper plug on the connector that would have gone on the Starter Cut Relay. That Blue jumper is beneath the Trail Coil assy.

 

WHere is the start cut relay? I going in deep search for a spliced wire.

OH and i jumped the circuit opning relay and the pump works.

ONe question.. WHen the pump works with the carr off. IS it suppost to make fuel press? Its wierd that it doesnt...

Yesterday i kept the yellow test connector grouded to see if the car would start and it didnt. Still didnt see no fuel press.



HAILER> Do i have my fuel lines on correctly from what i described?

JUst in case, how much is the circuit opening relay cost?

 

HAiler.. Whats up? YOu worn out?

ARe you thinking whaty im thinking?

THats at this point i should just run my own power wire to a switch and fuse and call it quits.?

 

If the pump works, then it should make fuel pressure in the rails. You have no problem with the circuit opening relay in my opinion. Don't bother it, it's ok.

You NEED to remove the Pressure line off the engine. The hose that comes from the filter just below the brake booster. Then key to On engine OFF and jumper the yellow connector. IF the pump is humming, and fuel is in the tank, fuel will POUR out the hose coming from the filter.

I suspect that will happen.

So the next thing you do is swap the two hoses at the engine, the return with the pressure, and then key ON, engine OFF and jumper the connector. You should have fuel at your gauge and in the rails and it should flow continuously thru the rail.

IF that does not happen, remove the RETURN line off the engine and key to ON, engine OFF, and jumper the yellow plug. Fuel should FLOW out the return hard line on the engine. IF it does not, something is plumbed wrong with the fuel lines on the engine itself.

If you hear the pump running, then don't jumper other wires etc to it. If its humming, it's pumping.

I think I"ve mentioned this in a post above. If you installed a JDM engine from overseas, the two fuel hose at the engine need to be opposite the USA engines. The fwd line is pressure on a USA. The fwd line is return on a JDM. So try swapping those two hose and turn the pump on and see what happens.

 

OK im going to run outside real quick and unhook the filter line and make the pump work. ANd hope it spits fuel all over everything. BRB in like 5 mins

 

I don't lurk. I don't always logg off when I walk away from a computer whether it's this site or another. It cost me nothing to do so. Sometimes it's hours before I return to the thing. humor

 

I got fuel PRESS!.. BUt no start yet..... I cranked and it acted like it was going to start but died instantly.

I poored a lil 2 stroke in the sprk plug holes. Cleaned spark plugs. ANd hopefully this biatch will start when i try it. OH and i let the engine turn for like over 30 secs with spark plugs out after i poored the 2 stroke,.. all exess 2 stroke should be out of the chamber.

 

**** ME RUNNING. NOw the biatch just wont start even with fuel press.

IM going to go and get NEw spark plugs. And i need to swap the fuel lines. JDM BS.

 

another thing... it might be flooding.. due to the fact that grounding the yellow 2 socket plugs runs the pump at a full 12v? The pump made an instant 80psi fuel press.

CAn this cause my car to flood before it starts?

 

HAILER. OK. BEfore i ever swaped my motor... my car used to make between 36-40psi of fuel press. NOW it makes 80 psi.... wtf..
I turned the aeromotive FPR all the way counter clockwise as to make the fuel press less...I actually took the adjuster off to make less fuel press as possible.. but yet when i try to crank the car it jumps to 80 psi... THe car acts like its going to start.. it sputters for a quick sec and dies..

SPark plugs are coming out wet. specially my leadings... I turned the motor backward a bit also... but no fuel cam eout the leadsing wholes... so its not like there is a pool of gas in there..


HOw does the pump work... does it run of diff voltages?

Ironic how i had 0 fuel press before and now i have too much....

 

The eighty psi indicates to me the fuel isn't flowing thru the rail and back to the tank. It sounds like the fuel pump output pressure all by itself deadheaded.

When the fuel pump is on, the fuel is supposed to run continuosly from the tank, thru the rail and right back to the tank. Well, any amount over ?? 39s psi gets bled back to the tank. Always flowing back to the tank if the pump is on.

So, remove the RETURN line off the engine and turn the pump ON. If fuel does not come out of the hardline on the engine, then something is plumbed wrong. The last thing in the fuel rails is supposed to be the FPR. Anything after the FPR is flowing directly back to the fuel tank.

I'm also not familiar with aftermarket regulators. As how the adjust etc.

The fuel lines on the engine are routed differently that USA. Remember, the FPR is the LAST thing in the fuel lines.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...JDM+FUEL+LINES

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...JDM+FUEL+LINES

From what I gather, the pressure line goes to the SECONDARY rail on JDM. It passes thru the seconday rail to the fuel damper.......then down to the primary rail and leaves the primary rail out the FPR on the Primary rail...............and goes back to the fuel tank. I've never seen one myself.

Read NZCONVERTIBLE here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...JDM+FUEL+LINES

FPR is on the small primary rail.

 

Ok ok... You guys are going to laugh at this... specially you hailer. heh

ANyways.. this whole thread was useless.. why?

Because it all came down to the fuel lines being hooke dup all wrong...!

THose diagrams on post 42... really helped...
I also read up on aftermarket FPR's and how they hook up.
FUEL goes like so on JDM engines. Fuel Filter->primary rail-> secondary rail-> Aftermarket FPR-> tank return.

Well after I went and rerouted all the fuel lines I went to crank it aNS she fired right uP!


THis whole time.. had nothing to do with the fuel pump... The fuel press just had me thinking that...

ANd i hooked up the original oil press.. (yellow red wire) Good oil press and motor sounds healthy.. THAnks Japan2LA for a good motor.

ANd thanks you HAILER for making me an electrician=P (well not really but learned a lot)

 

Enjoy...

Take it easy so that motor can last for you...
Brian..

 

I Just got a second car so the 7 will only be driven about twice a week.=D

SHe should last.