Fuel pump and headlight relays.
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Fuel pump and headlight relays.
I've got a 1989 GTU, brand new fuel pump, but for some reason the fuel pump isn't kicking on. I need to know the location for the fuel pump relay. The battery was placed in backwards when I bought the car, and it fried a bunch of the relays and fuses. I've got most of it fixed other than the headlights won't come on, and the fuel pump isn't kicking on either.
I've replaced the fuses and still nothing. I'm left only to believe that it is the relays at this point, so for all you FC gurus out there, where can I find the headlight relays (for the actual lights, the lamps come up, they just don't turn on until you hit high beams and even then it is only for a second) and where can I find the fuel pump relay?
I've replaced the fuses and still nothing. I'm left only to believe that it is the relays at this point, so for all you FC gurus out there, where can I find the headlight relays (for the actual lights, the lamps come up, they just don't turn on until you hit high beams and even then it is only for a second) and where can I find the fuel pump relay?
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https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=RELAYS
Sounds like there MIGHT be something wrong with the Dimmer Relay.
You need to download the free wiring diagrams from this site and go to the headlight section and get a meter out. It's pretty straight forward.
Fuel relay is called the Circuit Opening Relay. You need to download the free wiring diagram from this site and go to the Fuel section. It's pretty straight fwd.
Fuel pump works only if the engine is running or the key is Held to Start.
The exception is if the fuel pump check connector is jumpered and the key is to ON or better. Then it will also run.
Circuit Opening relay is above the steering column, biased to the right of the column. See the Fuel diagram.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...5&d=1142895570
Sounds like there MIGHT be something wrong with the Dimmer Relay.
You need to download the free wiring diagrams from this site and go to the headlight section and get a meter out. It's pretty straight forward.
Fuel relay is called the Circuit Opening Relay. You need to download the free wiring diagram from this site and go to the Fuel section. It's pretty straight fwd.
Fuel pump works only if the engine is running or the key is Held to Start.
The exception is if the fuel pump check connector is jumpered and the key is to ON or better. Then it will also run.
Circuit Opening relay is above the steering column, biased to the right of the column. See the Fuel diagram.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...5&d=1142895570
Last edited by HAILERS; 12-26-07 at 09:47 PM.
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Connecting the battery backwards should do nothing to the relays. They're protected by the fuses anyway.
The fuel pump normally only runs when the engine is cranking or running. To run it with just the ignition switched on (for testing and pressurising the system) you need to jumper the yellow 2-pin check connector next to the FR strut tower.
The headlight relay is mounted with a bunch of others in front of the radiator, but there are several reasons why the headlights might not come on. Follow the troubleshooting instructions in the Body Electrical chapter of the FSM, page T-51.
The fuel pump normally only runs when the engine is cranking or running. To run it with just the ignition switched on (for testing and pressurising the system) you need to jumper the yellow 2-pin check connector next to the FR strut tower.
The headlight relay is mounted with a bunch of others in front of the radiator, but there are several reasons why the headlights might not come on. Follow the troubleshooting instructions in the Body Electrical chapter of the FSM, page T-51.
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There's scads of old posts on headlight problems. The following are some when I put in a search for headlight relays: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/search...archid=4467278
Personaly, I'd pull the Dimmer Relay and with the headlights put to ON, see if there is 12vdc on the red/green wires. If you do, then it is not the Headlight Relay for sure. See the diagram I attached on the previous post and you see why I say that.
No power on the red/green means a problem with the headlight relay, or most likely what pulls it in. What pulls it in is the headlight switch. PUll that headlight relay and see if you have power on it from the fuses. Got power means the gnd isn't being put on it by the headlight switch.
Hooking the batt up backwards could screw up the diodes in the dimmer switch. Nope. Like the DUDE said, it won't mess up relays. But a bad Dimmer Switch won't cause the headlight to not work.
Personaly, I'd pull the Dimmer Relay and with the headlights put to ON, see if there is 12vdc on the red/green wires. If you do, then it is not the Headlight Relay for sure. See the diagram I attached on the previous post and you see why I say that.
No power on the red/green means a problem with the headlight relay, or most likely what pulls it in. What pulls it in is the headlight switch. PUll that headlight relay and see if you have power on it from the fuses. Got power means the gnd isn't being put on it by the headlight switch.
Hooking the batt up backwards could screw up the diodes in the dimmer switch. Nope. Like the DUDE said, it won't mess up relays. But a bad Dimmer Switch won't cause the headlight to not work.
Last edited by HAILERS; 12-26-07 at 10:04 PM.
#7
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Thanks for all your help. I'll start checking into all this. Technically the car isn't mine anymore. I traded it off for some parts, but I'm helping the person I traded it to.
The fuses were definitely fried, but even when the engine is cranking it still isn't getting any fuel.
For what its worth, I know very little about FC's. I prefer to stay in the land of carbs and 12A's. Its my comfort zone. Wiring scares the living **** out of me.
The fuses were definitely fried, but even when the engine is cranking it still isn't getting any fuel.
For what its worth, I know very little about FC's. I prefer to stay in the land of carbs and 12A's. Its my comfort zone. Wiring scares the living **** out of me.
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>.> i remember when i puit in my fuel pump it wouldnt turn on.....then i remembered i had to plug it back in......maybe its something that simple! makes thnings alot easier on you!
#9
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I wish it were something that simple. So far the entire car has just been a nightmare. Fix one thing, find out something else is wrong. Now that I'm down to the wiring, I finally caved and came here for advice. That is also why I decided that it is a better decision to have my uncle weld me up a custom turbo manifold for my FB, along with a carb hat as an even trade for the FC.
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The fuel pump gets its power from the Circuit Opening Relay. The Circuit Opening Relay gets its power from the Main Relay. The Main Relay gets its power from the EGI fuse.
The Main Relay is almost bullet proof.
The Circuit Opening Relay is almost bullet proof.
The pump is unlike the carb pumps on the carb engines. It only runs if you Hold the key to Start or the engine is actually running. Or if you go to the yellow, two socket connector near the right strut tower, and jumper it with a piece of wire, then the pump will run if the key is to ON.
The pump will run if the key is to ON, and you have a series four afm and push it's vane aft by at least a half inch or more (doing the same thing as jumpering the yellow, two socket, fuel pump check connector).
The pump does NOT run by just putting the key to ON and nothing else. Ain't supposed to run like that.
If you pull the headlight relay and check the RED wire, you should have 12vdc there. That lets you know if the fuse is good or not. If you turn the headlight switch on, that relay should pull in (click). IF you have 12v on the Red wire and find the relay does not *click* when the headlight switch is put to ON, then your not getting the ground signal to that headlight relay from the headlight switch. IF that happens then get a piece of wire with one end on gnd, and stick the other end of that wire up the backside of the White wire in that head light relay. The relay should now click if it's any good AND there is 12v on the RED wire also.
And if your reading this, go scroll down to the very bottom of this page. You'll see references to OTHER threads on headlight relays. You might search those other threads. OR go to the FSM and it has step by step ways of checking out the problem of headlights not working.
The Main Relay is almost bullet proof.
The Circuit Opening Relay is almost bullet proof.
The pump is unlike the carb pumps on the carb engines. It only runs if you Hold the key to Start or the engine is actually running. Or if you go to the yellow, two socket connector near the right strut tower, and jumper it with a piece of wire, then the pump will run if the key is to ON.
The pump will run if the key is to ON, and you have a series four afm and push it's vane aft by at least a half inch or more (doing the same thing as jumpering the yellow, two socket, fuel pump check connector).
The pump does NOT run by just putting the key to ON and nothing else. Ain't supposed to run like that.
If you pull the headlight relay and check the RED wire, you should have 12vdc there. That lets you know if the fuse is good or not. If you turn the headlight switch on, that relay should pull in (click). IF you have 12v on the Red wire and find the relay does not *click* when the headlight switch is put to ON, then your not getting the ground signal to that headlight relay from the headlight switch. IF that happens then get a piece of wire with one end on gnd, and stick the other end of that wire up the backside of the White wire in that head light relay. The relay should now click if it's any good AND there is 12v on the RED wire also.
And if your reading this, go scroll down to the very bottom of this page. You'll see references to OTHER threads on headlight relays. You might search those other threads. OR go to the FSM and it has step by step ways of checking out the problem of headlights not working.
Last edited by HAILERS; 12-27-07 at 07:19 AM.
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