Fuel kill switch?
#27
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Attached is a "picture" of plug NZ is talking about (I think). Can anyone clarify this? Also, if it is the correct plug, you cut "B" right? Thanks for the extra help, don't wanna **** my car up lol (when i get it that is).
Look under the dash by the steering column. You'll see a relay with a yellow plug that has five wires. That's the fuel pump circuit opening relay. Cut the middle wire (black/white) and solder two short lengths of wire to the cut ends. Connect those two wires to your switch.
#33
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Okay, so its the middle, black and white one. I wonder who it was that was telling me it was the Thickest one because the thicker one on my '88 TII is more gray/white than black/white.
#36
RX-7 Alumni
Just to confuse everyone. I put mine in the blue wire going to the pump (but mine is in a FB chassis). This way I can cut the fuel even when it is cranking. I have needed it alot while trying to start my freshly rebuilt motor. It is better to switch on control power to a relay as opposed to the load (pump) side. Unfortunately you would need a double switch cause there are two ways to activate the relay. Using the main b/w is same as using the blue on the pump side--except you'll be controlling the power on the main load side of the circuit.
The FB circuits are very similar to the FC NA. When I install the Walbro I'll be using the relay resistor setup for the 88 T2.
I used a switch for marine duty. I think it's rated at like 25 A. Remember most of these boat systems use 12V so you can get some good switches at the boat stores.
Scott
The FB circuits are very similar to the FC NA. When I install the Walbro I'll be using the relay resistor setup for the 88 T2.
I used a switch for marine duty. I think it's rated at like 25 A. Remember most of these boat systems use 12V so you can get some good switches at the boat stores.
Scott
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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07-01-23 04:40 PM