As far as I know, I am the only 2nd gen owner for ~120 miles. The only other 7s are 2 1st gens. I only know this from looking on CL for people selling cars. I have never seen one around these parts.

Edit: I just checked RockAuto for the AFM and they are between $158-192, unless I want an Airtex/Wells which is $1216.79... you weren't kidding.

 

well i wouldn't order one, i just figured it was a possibility to get another to test the car with.

you can also just unplug the AFM and try to start the car, if it works it won't run, just start for a few seconds then choke.

 

If you take a long ground wire and do the "grounding the Green wire trick" where you stand by the engine w/one of the spark plugs removed and place the smallest ECU plug mounted ground wire and touch it to the engine block w/key to on while you look/listen for the injector to fire it will tell you the condition of the injectors ability to release fuel as well as the wiring involved.

 

Well, I don't think I may need a long ground wire, I am taking the Automotive Technology 2 year course at my local community college and it's a live lab with usually 2 groups of 2 working on each car. I'll just make my partner ground out the wire in the car while I listen lol. Thanks for the idea Satch, I'll be sure to test it tomorrow if replacing the fuel filter does not solve my problems.

Karack, if what works the car won't run? Right now with all this injector testing and putting fuel into the intake it starts for a few and chokes anyways. If the fuel filter fixes things and she does start and stay running, would it be safe to pull the jumper and see if it chokes up?

 

Well, turns out the primaries were not opening. I tore into the UIM today in class and got them out. We tested both with our injector tester and neither worked, so we rechecked that we were doing it right and checked the secondaries which buzzed along, came back to the primaries and one started to buzz just not like the secondaries. I have a feeling I'm in need of new ones so I have been looking through the classified and found some 550s, but I know mine are 460s, so would I be alright on a bone stock car?

 

stick with the 460's, the car already runs rich with the 460's, upping them would net you less power and less mileage.

swap the primaries to the secondary locations so that you can at least drive the car until you get another pair of good 460's to swap into the secondary locations. just keep the car out of the upper rev range, 4k or less and you'll be fine for now.

 

I'm going to buy new or reman ones anyways I just didn't know if the 550s would work.

 

they will, but not ideally.

you can also just send them out to see if they can be refurbished. you may even have a local shop which can service them. most diesel service shops have injector cleaning equipment.

 

What if I swapped my working secondaries to my primaries and bought the 550s for secondaries? Or would that also drop power up top?

 

So, since I'm such a cheap b@st@rd, I decided I'm going to build an injector pulse circuit and clean my 460s myself.

 

My scratch made pulse circuit worked, kinda, it only maxed at about 15psi so cleaning wasn't the best. I still just swapped the secondaries with primaries and finally got the car running. At first I could not go above ~3800rpm but after a couple times trying to take her to the redline they did finally start firing off and boy... that was fun. I also freed up the stuck front 6PI actuator while I was torn into the car and I have a feeling it probably helped.

On a side note, what is the blue thing attached to the back/drivers side of my throttle body, I'm curious now that I ripped everything apart.