Fuel Choices
02-04-07, 11:55 AM
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Fuel Choices
I have had some contingency over which fuel to buy for my FC...
my father - a non-rotary mechanic, recommends chevron, shell, texaco, conoco etc. because those fuels have measurable detergents in them which will cut down on carbon buildup / deposits.
my Rotary mechanic (runs a shop devoted exclusively to rotaries) advises me to use Diamond Shamrock gas only, because it is the highest quality gas, w/out any added detergents. he claims that because the rotary uses oil as part of the combustion process, that you don't want detergents in your fuel breaking it down.
i took my rotary mechanics advice, and ran only D-sham fuel, and notied an instant difference in my cars idle, and pickup (probably because of increased compression due to increased carbon buildup.)
i drive my car carefully - i rev it often to blow out carbon, and i don't run an amount of boost that my car can't handle (only ran 8 psi last 2 engines) but i keep losing apex seals every 30k-40k miles. i been through 3 motors now and every time my apex seals are shattered, and my rotors/housings are destroyed.
so the question is this - better to run detergents in your fuel to prevent carbon buildup? Or better to blow the carbon out mechanically...?
my father - a non-rotary mechanic, recommends chevron, shell, texaco, conoco etc. because those fuels have measurable detergents in them which will cut down on carbon buildup / deposits.
my Rotary mechanic (runs a shop devoted exclusively to rotaries) advises me to use Diamond Shamrock gas only, because it is the highest quality gas, w/out any added detergents. he claims that because the rotary uses oil as part of the combustion process, that you don't want detergents in your fuel breaking it down.
i took my rotary mechanics advice, and ran only D-sham fuel, and notied an instant difference in my cars idle, and pickup (probably because of increased compression due to increased carbon buildup.)
i drive my car carefully - i rev it often to blow out carbon, and i don't run an amount of boost that my car can't handle (only ran 8 psi last 2 engines) but i keep losing apex seals every 30k-40k miles. i been through 3 motors now and every time my apex seals are shattered, and my rotors/housings are destroyed.
so the question is this - better to run detergents in your fuel to prevent carbon buildup? Or better to blow the carbon out mechanically...?
02-04-07, 02:35 PM
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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This debate goes on forever...Everyone likes to have a theory on this and usually has evidence to support their theory.
I just run whatever fuel is convenient in all my cars and have never had an issue.
I just run whatever fuel is convenient in all my cars and have never had an issue.
02-04-07, 04:16 PM
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with these insane prices (Holland, $1,75 for a LITER) i usually just go to the cheapest stations. i live near the border with Belgium, where its about 15ct cheaper
never had any issues on my petrol choice, only thing i sorta noticed is that with the more expensive ones, you get a little more mileage
never had any issues on my petrol choice, only thing i sorta noticed is that with the more expensive ones, you get a little more mileage
02-04-07, 04:48 PM
#5
Best answer is which ever one is cheapest and closest to your location. Fuel is fuel, with a few minor exceptions. Fuel here is around 1.97-2.05/gallon for regular and premium is like 2.25 on average. I ussualy use nothing but Premium, but when gas prices were really high a year or so ago I stepped down to Plus and saw no change in anything. So again, it doesnt really matter. The cheaper and closer the better
02-04-07, 05:09 PM
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cool - thx for the responses.
As soon as i can find some good s5 irons i cant wait to get started on a new streetported shortblock!
the damn rx sank all my money, and i have been un-employed... but the only thing on my mind is getting her up and running again! only question now is whether or not i wanna go all in and spend all the time, $ and effort putting in a 13b-re or just going with a regular s5...
As soon as i can find some good s5 irons i cant wait to get started on a new streetported shortblock!
the damn rx sank all my money, and i have been un-employed... but the only thing on my mind is getting her up and running again! only question now is whether or not i wanna go all in and spend all the time, $ and effort putting in a 13b-re or just going with a regular s5...
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02-04-07, 06:43 PM
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I run on any gas station as long as it has premium. I have to have only the best for my baby. Putting any cheaper fuel in my car is like feeding a baby concentrated e.coli. Good Luck with the 7!!
02-04-07, 10:38 PM
#11
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
All the gas companies have to pass the same standards by law.
Any claims made by a gas company that their fuel is better are just marketing.
And detergents in the fuel aren't going to break down oil injected by the metering pump...
If you blow engines every 40K you're doing something seriously wrong.
Any claims made by a gas company that their fuel is better are just marketing.
And detergents in the fuel aren't going to break down oil injected by the metering pump...
If you blow engines every 40K you're doing something seriously wrong.
02-05-07, 11:53 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
All the gas companies have to pass the same standards by law.
Any claims made by a gas company that their fuel is better are just marketing.
And detergents in the fuel aren't going to break down oil injected by the metering pump...
If you blow engines every 40K you're doing something seriously wrong.
Any claims made by a gas company that their fuel is better are just marketing.
And detergents in the fuel aren't going to break down oil injected by the metering pump...
If you blow engines every 40K you're doing something seriously wrong.
02-05-07, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by oblio
my father - a non-rotary mechanic, recommends chevron, shell, texaco, conoco etc. because those fuels have measurable detergents in them which will cut down on carbon buildup / deposits.
Your Father: 1
Your Mechanic: 0
Originally Posted by EPA
CFR Title 40, Volume 16, Sec. 80.161
(2) Beginning August 1, 1997, all gasoline sold or transferred to the ultimate consumer must contain detergent additive(s) which have been certified, according to the requirements of this section, to be effective for the control of PFID and IVD in gasoline engines.
(3) Except as specifically exempted in Sec. 80.173, these detergency requirements apply to all gasoline, whether intended for on-highway or nonroad use, including conventional, oxygenated, reformulated, and leaded gasolines, as well as the gasoline component in
mixtures of petroleum and alcohol fuels, gasoline used as marine fuel, gasoline service accumulation fuel (as described in Sec. 86.113-94(a)(1) of this chapter), the gasoline component of fuel mixtures of petroleum and methanol used for service accumulation in flexible fuel vehicles (as described in Sec. 86.113-94(d) of this chapter), the
gasoline used for factory fill purposes, and all additized PRC.
(2) Beginning August 1, 1997, all gasoline sold or transferred to the ultimate consumer must contain detergent additive(s) which have been certified, according to the requirements of this section, to be effective for the control of PFID and IVD in gasoline engines.
(3) Except as specifically exempted in Sec. 80.173, these detergency requirements apply to all gasoline, whether intended for on-highway or nonroad use, including conventional, oxygenated, reformulated, and leaded gasolines, as well as the gasoline component in
mixtures of petroleum and alcohol fuels, gasoline used as marine fuel, gasoline service accumulation fuel (as described in Sec. 86.113-94(a)(1) of this chapter), the gasoline component of fuel mixtures of petroleum and methanol used for service accumulation in flexible fuel vehicles (as described in Sec. 86.113-94(d) of this chapter), the
gasoline used for factory fill purposes, and all additized PRC.
http://frwebgate3.access.gpo.gov/cgi...ction=retrieve
Top Tier fuel here:
http://www.toptiergas.com/
Originally Posted by oblio
i drive my car carefully - i rev it often to blow out carbon, and i don't run an amount of boost that my car can't handle (only ran 8 psi last 2 engines) but i keep losing apex seals every 30k-40k miles. i been through 3 motors now and every time my apex seals are shattered, and my rotors/housings are destroyed.
02-05-07, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Loki101
Lmao..Rotorhead-."Putting any cheaper fuel in my car is like feeding a baby concentrated e.coli."
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/octane.htm
02-05-07, 07:39 PM
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Its all George W Bush's fault!!! And even if it isn't....... He makes a great scape-goat.
I really didn't realize how cheap gas was everywhere else......... man.. I'm depressed.
I really didn't realize how cheap gas was everywhere else......... man.. I'm depressed.
02-05-07, 07:45 PM
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane
Until I am running higher boost, I see no need to use anything other than the cheapest I can find. 87 octane, lowest price.
To date: $1.99
That's in the more expensive parts of town...If I drive 20 min, I can get it for $1.95 (87 octane btw)
Until I am running higher boost, I see no need to use anything other than the cheapest I can find. 87 octane, lowest price.
To date: $1.99
That's in the more expensive parts of town...If I drive 20 min, I can get it for $1.95 (87 octane btw)
02-05-07, 07:53 PM
#24
+1 to www.toptiergas.com. Endorsed by BMW, Honda and others.
You need detergents to keep your fuel system and engine clean, just like you need them in your oil. There is a minimum legal requirement but the good brands use more. Otherwise your fuel injectors, engine, etc. will clog faster or build up more deposits.
Octane is something else entirely. Yes, you should always use the lowest octane your car allows.
76 was missing from poster's list, in case you need another option. And a bunch of minor brands (but who cares).
Gas is $2.75 here in North CA. $3.00 across in the Bay in San Fransisco.
I miss my home town.
You need detergents to keep your fuel system and engine clean, just like you need them in your oil. There is a minimum legal requirement but the good brands use more. Otherwise your fuel injectors, engine, etc. will clog faster or build up more deposits.
Octane is something else entirely. Yes, you should always use the lowest octane your car allows.
76 was missing from poster's list, in case you need another option. And a bunch of minor brands (but who cares).
Gas is $2.75 here in North CA. $3.00 across in the Bay in San Fransisco.
I miss my home town.
Last edited by ericgrau; 02-05-07 at 08:00 PM.
02-05-07, 11:49 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by micaheli
2.25 is expensive for gas? Man... I hate the west coast......
I think I paid 2.75 for regular the other day.
I think I paid 2.75 for regular the other day.