I can't believe there are no pics or vids on youtube about this. my first front wheel bearing repack, I don't understand how to get the rear seal out by putting the nut back on and pulling the hub or using a nsocket as it seems that the other side is more narrow then the inner bearing so how do you get a socket in there? maybe I'm retarded but I can't get this thing out and don't want to pry with a screwdriver and destroy the seal.

 

Remove the cotter pin.
Remove the castle nut.
Slide the rotor down a little, and pull the outer bearing out.
Put the rotor back on.
Reinstall the nut, 2 or 3 threads is fine.
Now, slide the rotor back down, and use the nut to catch the back side of the inner bearing.
Yank.
The bearing and seal will still be hanging on the spindle.

If you're replacing the bearings, use a soft steel punch to knock the old races out of the rotor. Use the old races to drive in the new races. Remove all, and I mean ALL the grease from the rotor. Pack the bearings with grease. Clean the grease from the cap, put some grease in the dust cap, about halfway up. Install the inner bearing in the rotor, install the seal, put the rotor on the spindle. Install the outer bearing, washer, castle nut, tighten it down until snug, then back it off until the hole in the spindle is aligned with the first slot on the castle nut. Install cotter pin, tap the dust cap on, and carry on.

 

thanks, the mistake I was making with the hub (you call it rotor, its the hub) was I was reinstalling the washer as well as the nut but the washer is to wide to fit through the hub until the inner bearing. I managed to get the seal out by using a punch, tip protected by some rubber "thing" I found that would reduce risk of scratching/destroying the inside of the hub/inner bearing. I tapped from the front side of the hub all around a bit at a time on the inner bearing which in turn pushed the rear seal out. I feel stupid for not figuring that out sooner but I didn't want to break anything as I needed to re use everything. only had money for the wheel bearing grease to repack them and see if that stops my steering wheel vibration. I cleaned the bearings and metal parts with kerosene I had laying around, just wiped down the rear seal and spindle very well as I thought kerosne might harm the rubber seal. anyway, everything else was a snap (packing the bearings with grease was kinda tedious and messy, did it by hand) and re assembled. thanks for the reply. I thought this would be simple as I have the FSM and haynes manual but they were not very clear, haynes seemed to expect you to replace at least the rear seal which I wanted to re use. have not test drove yet, I'll update this when I do.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot the FC has separate hubs. I haven't worked on my FC's brakes in such a long time. I was going off the typical brake system (like on trucks) that has the hub built in to the rotor. But you really won't risk damaging anything by knocking the hub seal out with the old inner wheel bearing.

When talking about brakes, it's inner/outer, unless you're directly speaking about the front or rear brakes. Saying that avoids confusion, as opposed to saying "rear seal". That took me a minute to figure out what you were talking about