2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Front subframe gonners

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Old 09-30-09 | 11:56 PM
  #1  
Rextasee's Avatar
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808gxl
 
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From: Big Island, Hawaii
Front subframe gonners

my front pass tire had an argument w/ a curb so now my subframe is bent where the a arms bolt in.
whats the best way for replacing a front subframe?

thanks
Old 10-01-09 | 11:04 PM
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are you sure its the subframe? and not the ps rack or a arms seems odd that the subframe would be bent.
Old 10-01-09 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Rextasee
my front pass tire had an argument w/ a curb so now my subframe is bent where the a arms bolt in.
whats the best way for replacing a front subframe?

thanks
Currently dealing with this issue right now, replaced the subframe... or at least attempted to, but the rear bolt on the passenger side for the subframe is slightly angled inwards enough that it doesn't allow all 4 subframe bolts to be lined up with the holes on the subframe. The frame rail is not bent at all but you can clearly see the bolt coming out of it is at an angle. Will be taking my "soft" deadblow to it tomorrow and see what happens then decide where to go from there.
Old 10-02-09 | 12:01 AM
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From: Dandridge, Tennessee
Originally Posted by Rextasee
my front pass tire had an argument w/ a curb so now my subframe is bent where the a arms bolt in.
whats the best way for replacing a front subframe?

thanks
Step one: acquire a 'new' subframe (suggest sourcing one from a junkyard before tryinng the forum). Clean new subframe and treat possible rust.

Step two: Unbolt suspension from current subframe, remove A-arms/spindles/shocks/springs as one unit if you can (saves on wrench time).

step three: bolt suspension bits to the new subframe (good time to renew bushings while you're there).

Now this is where it can be done multiple ways.

You can either remove your motor/trans now and bolt them up to the new subframe, or you can leave them bolted to the old subframe. Either way make sure you prepare the engine bay like you are removing the engine.

Theres 4 nuts holding the subframe to the car, undo them slowly and wiggle the frame if you can, once the nuts are to the last threads get a jack or two under the old frame (or if youve removed the motor first you can just skip the jacks) ad setup the jacks so they 'catch' the subframe. Remove the nuts. Begin lowering the jacks while holding the subframe/engine combo from falling to the sides. (Again skip if you opt to pull the motor first.) Once everything is free you can swap your steering rack to the new frame and clean everything once more.

Now make sure that you jacked up the car high enough to clear the new subframe assembly when you start to put it back in, or else you now have nowhere to 'equally' jack the car from to make it higher.

Once the new frame is reassembled you can 'roll' it back under the car if youve put wheels on it, if not, put a jack or two under it and slide it into place carefully.


These are my insights and opinions. I Personally have to do this sometime in the future as well, but ive outlined the route im effectively taking as I already have a spare subframe and related components ready to go aside from new bushings and mounts.
Old 10-02-09 | 02:29 PM
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808gxl
 
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Originally Posted by ramello
are you sure its the subframe? and not the ps rack or a arms seems odd that the subframe would be bent.
where the a-arm is bolted onto the subframe by those 2 horizontal bolts has been shifted back and is at an angle.. also need to straighten my frame... probably take to bodyshop monday.. thanks for all the replies guys
Old 10-02-09 | 05:29 PM
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are you talking about the back part of where the large control arm bushing mounts into the subframe?
Old 10-03-09 | 01:46 PM
  #7  
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808gxl
 
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From: Big Island, Hawaii
lower a arm mounts to subframe by two bolts.... the flanges the bolts go through have been shifted
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