Gimpdiggity

Hey guys and gals.

I did a search, but couldn't find much. Only a few threads actually, and none really answered my question.


I think that I have a blown front eccentric shaft seal. The car leaks oil pretty bad, and it's coming from that area. I tested the bolt, and it's not loose. I know it might be the little metal washer that's in there, but I figure I'll get a new eccentric seal while I'm taking it apart. Does anyone know how often a front eccentric shaft seal will go out?? My car has 133,000 miles on it, and I know it's never had a new one. Does this seem like about the time that it might need to be replaced??

Thanks,
Jeff

Rotortuner

they will usualy last as long as the engine does. so you should be good but i guess they do go out occassionaly but not often.

CJG

[bnd]

are you talking about the front eccentric shaft oil seal? mine was worn out when i got the car. it left a nice splatter of oil across the engine bay and a lovely puddle where ever i parked. lol, the previous owner told me not to worry about it. anyway, i had it replaced pretty much right away. after a year and roughly 5000 miles later it hasn't leaked since.

by the way, it's covered on page 60 in the haynes manual.

Gimpdiggity

Thanks bnd. That's what mine is doing, it leaves oil ALL OVER the inside of the engine compartment, and a nasty puddle wherever it's parked. I got the Haynes manual the other day, and I saw it in there, and I figured that it was probably my problem, now I'm pretty sure it is, seeing as my symptoms match yours up!!

Thanks,
Jeff

copandengr

Be sure you smoke over the Mazdatrix web site regarding the e-shaft hub and the associated problems you can run into with the thrust bearings. Do this before you remove the hub. This may save you a world of hurt later on.

Gimpdiggity

Wow...thanks copendanger...I would probably have really screwed my engine up if you hadn't told me to check that out...


Jeff

turboren

I had a similar problem with my 91, and it wasn't the e-shaft seal (which, by the way, are available through parts houses, listed as the "timing cover" seal, go fig...).

The best thing to do is degrease the front of the engine, well, really, the whole engine, and find the true source of the leak. If the oil is coming out in a steady trickle, I will bet you it isn't the e-shaft seal, but rather the front cover gasket. Mine was leaking right at the base of the crank angle sensor. Apparently, this is not overly common, but does happen.

You will have to get a new gasket from the dealer, or a rotary parts supplier, as most parts houses don't carry it. Also be sure to get the o-ring that goes in the front cover oil passage (which is right next to the CAS). Contrary to popular belief, the engine does not have to be removed to do this, but it is a lot easier to do with it removed, because then you can also replace the oil pan gasket. There are 5 or 6 bolts that hold the front cover to the front end housing, and six that go into the front cover from the oil pan. These last six are the most time consuming to get to, especially with power steering. You will have a better chance of getting to them if you jack up the engine a little. The oil cooler lines will have to be moved out of the way, too. Naturally, you will also have to remove the fan shroud, fan, belts, and crank pulley.

The other possibility is that one of your oil cooler lines is cracked/broken. Again, cleaning up the area will reveal the problem.

Ren

copandengr

I could not respond to your private message so here is my opinion on the problems/difficulties associated with hub removal;

As you have already discovered there is a chance the thrust bearings will be dislodged when the hub is removed. The results of this happening will destroy the thrust bearing immediately and are eventually catastrophic to the engine.

If you are going to remove the hub try these suggestions to lessen the chance the bearings will move;

As you have read on the Mazdatrix site, depressing the clutch and holding it down with something will cause the e-shaft to move as far forward as it can and thereby put a little pressure on the rear most thrust bearing. The next thing to do is measure the depth from the hub surface (where the sealing copper washer goes) to the e-shaft after you remove the bolt but BEFORE you move the hub in any way. This will give you a baseline measurement. When you reassemble the engine a measurement here that is more than a few thousandths greater will indicate a bearing has slipped away from its normal position. The factory manual shows you how to do this and gives a measurement.

Avoid at all costs turning the engine over with the starter while the hub is removed. It is even better if you do not turn the e-shaft at all while the hub is not there to keep the innards where they belong. Try to minimize any type of hitting, such as striking the front cover to remove the seal.

Always install the hub and bolt with a new copper gasket. If the hub has a groove worn in it from the old seal there are two things you can do. The new oil seal can be driven in slightly less than the old one was so the seal lips are riding on fresh metal. If there is a substantial groove then you may be able to go to a local bearing supply and get a "speedy sleeve" to repair the hub's sealing surface. This is a very thin sleeve of metal that covers the area but is too thin to affect the seal's operation. You could always obtain another hub if it is worn too much. A groove you can hang your fingernail in is probably too deep for the new seal to work properly.

If the bearings do manage to fall out of place despite your best efforts the only recourse is to remove the front cover and reassemble everything again.

Hope this helps.