front controll arms very tight after energy suspension bushing install
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front controll arms very tight after energy suspension bushing install
Just installed the front ES controll arm bushings. nof that this is done, according to the instructions the front controll arms are way ******* tight like they are binding.
Is this normal?
I don't see how anything could have been done differently, the only thing I could think of is the rear mount could be turned around, front to back with the car.
Any thoughts?
Is this normal?
I don't see how anything could have been done differently, the only thing I could think of is the rear mount could be turned around, front to back with the car.
Any thoughts?
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you can't remove the front bushing without taking out the metal sleeve. I should mention that the bushings move just fine on the arms untill the rear hoop is tightened thats when the **** gets tight.
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#11
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Originally Posted by JWteknix
its not gonna change. the weight of the car could easily put the suspention back in to "operating stance" no matter how tight the control arms were tightend so i dont think that would matter and the springs and struts could also eaily push the car back up
#12
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READ
"Bushing Construction
Many bushings now use hot-bonded construction, in which the elastic material is essentially melted to the inner and outer metal sleeves. This contrasts with the "shot" type, in which the rubber material (the elastomer) is injected, then expands under pressure against the sleeves.
Burgess notes that shot products, if improperly installed (by torquing the control arm bushing with the arm hanging, for example), will twist through a greater range of motion before breaking free from the sleeve (see "Bushing Service Timesavers" on page 38). In many instances, it will break free, slip and realign itself, then lock into the correct position."
does not apply to free floating type bushings!!!
taken from this....http://www.findarticles.com/p/articl...06/ai_n9257837
"Bushing Construction
Many bushings now use hot-bonded construction, in which the elastic material is essentially melted to the inner and outer metal sleeves. This contrasts with the "shot" type, in which the rubber material (the elastomer) is injected, then expands under pressure against the sleeves.
Burgess notes that shot products, if improperly installed (by torquing the control arm bushing with the arm hanging, for example), will twist through a greater range of motion before breaking free from the sleeve (see "Bushing Service Timesavers" on page 38). In many instances, it will break free, slip and realign itself, then lock into the correct position."
does not apply to free floating type bushings!!!
taken from this....http://www.findarticles.com/p/articl...06/ai_n9257837
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You needed to read further into the very article you site. Something which I suspect you did anyways but instead of admitting that you where wrong you continued the insisting you where correct,
In any case I have come to the conclusion that the amount of binding present is within normal design limits, in order to remove it I would have to put spacers between the rear front lower controll arm collers and subframe. That doesn't seem like a good idea.
"Energy Suspension's Tanya Oxford notes that because polyurethane does not bond to metal, it remains free-floating and allows a greater range of motion. In control arm applications, this proper-ty eliminates the need to weight the wheels before the final fastener torque is applied."
In any case I have come to the conclusion that the amount of binding present is within normal design limits, in order to remove it I would have to put spacers between the rear front lower controll arm collers and subframe. That doesn't seem like a good idea.
"Energy Suspension's Tanya Oxford notes that because polyurethane does not bond to metal, it remains free-floating and allows a greater range of motion. In control arm applications, this proper-ty eliminates the need to weight the wheels before the final fastener torque is applied."
Your wrong, it is a common known FACT you shouldnt tighten the Control arm, or swap bar mounts/ bushings, until the car is sitting level on the ground!!!
#17
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I have a question...
If the car is sitting on the ground , then how are you going to get under the car to tighten these bolts/bushings ? It would be hard to do if you ask me, especially if the wheels are still on.
The only way i could think of is to ride the car onto ride on wheelstands, but then the car wouldnt be on level ground would it ?
If the car is sitting on the ground , then how are you going to get under the car to tighten these bolts/bushings ? It would be hard to do if you ask me, especially if the wheels are still on.
The only way i could think of is to ride the car onto ride on wheelstands, but then the car wouldnt be on level ground would it ?
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Originally Posted by wtfdidusay82
I have a question...
If the car is sitting on the ground , then how are you going to get under the car to tighten these bolts/bushings ? It would be hard to do if you ask me, especially if the wheels are still on.
The only way i could think of is to ride the car onto ride on wheelstands, but then the car wouldnt be on level ground would it ?
If the car is sitting on the ground , then how are you going to get under the car to tighten these bolts/bushings ? It would be hard to do if you ask me, especially if the wheels are still on.
The only way i could think of is to ride the car onto ride on wheelstands, but then the car wouldnt be on level ground would it ?
a drive up lift would be the easy way.
#19
you use ramps or a roll on lift to do it, same thing with sway bars. btw thanx to slo now i dont look like an ******* i knew i was correct because i did my poly bushings on a 4 post lift with no load on the control arms and no problems occured i could see if you were using stock replacement but your not. you no after rereading this thread and realized that all these guys jumped down my back for no reason if they had properly read the opening post or better yet the info they had posted they wouldnt look like idiot trying to make some one else look stupid. oh and i did learn something if i ever decide to put the shitty OEM bushing back in my sports car ill be sure to remember to load the suspention b4 tightening it
Last edited by JWteknix; 02-11-07 at 12:12 AM.