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Fresh rebuild smoking from the engine bay...

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Old 01-21-05, 06:28 PM
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Thumbs up Fresh rebuild smoking from the engine bay...

Anyways, for any of you guys that have been reading my recent threads; I was able to find oil pressure. Turns out I did have a bad oil pressure sensor... ha. So I removed one from a spare N/A block I had sitting, plugged it in, cranked the motor and wa la!... oil pressure.

BTW, thanks everyone for the imput (dDuB, RotaryResurrection, Karack, Corbit etc.)

I got the engine bay all put together and today I pushed it out of my garage to start it. Put a couple squirts of ATF in, poured some 2 stroke oil in the driver side TMIC pipe (?), pinched the fuel hose, had the car jumped etc... Repeat process until I decided to try compression starting it. Anyways, Steve (13bpower) gave me a push and I managed to get it running the 2nd try (yeahh!!!) So, it was idleing in front of my house, smoke is pouring out the exhaust, and smoke starts coming out of the engine bay... No problem we thought, there's obviously coolant, oil etc. just burning off the block. Well it gets worse so Steve tells me to shut off the car-- I do. Get out and the smoke just keeps coming from the motor, grab a fire extinguisher just in case.

The smoke was a light greyish brown coming from the pass side behind the airpump, kind of underneathe the UIM we could here something boiling too. Anyways a lot of the smoke was whisping out of the pass. side intercooler piping (directly above the turbo). To me, it didn't particularly smell like oil or coolant, maybe electrical? Like a rubbery smell?

Anyways, I removed the IC and the UIM etc. When I removed a lot of the hoses a significant amount of the 2 stroke oil came gushing out... Is this what was burning/ boiling? I don't see any burnt up wires or disconnected coolant hoses etc. now that the UIM is removed...

Thanks
Old 01-21-05, 07:04 PM
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Did you look for any leaks or fluid puddles sitting on top of the engine? I assume you did.

Just curious but how come you put oil into the TMIC pipe? With my rebuild I didn't put any ATF in the spark plug holes, no oil in anything, just cranked it 4 times with the fuse pulled and it fired right up on the first try and idled on its own without having the hold the throttle or anything. All the vasceline that was burning off sure made for a nice smoke show in my neighborhood pretty much covered the house next to me.

What did the smoke smell like? Could you tell at all? Sounds kind of like oil to me, maybe the oil you put in the TMIC pipe somehow? Not sure. Have you tried firing it back up again? You might wanna do a few unflooding cranks as recent rebuilds have very low compression on the first startup and you should leave it on for a half hour or so after the initial startup. I know you couldn't and it was probably the best idea to shut it off, but it might be all flooded now.

I'll assume you've already done a quick fluids check and for leaks and such, but if you haven't do that first obviously
Old 01-21-05, 07:25 PM
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That sucks hard you did all that work....and it turned out to be the most common problem (not to mention thread) in this forum. Stuff like that hurts bad....

Prob my turn to have that happen soon...

James
Old 01-21-05, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Did you look for any leaks or fluid puddles sitting on top of the engine? I assume you did.

Just curious but how come you put oil into the TMIC pipe? With my rebuild I didn't put any ATF in the spark plug holes, no oil in anything, just cranked it 4 times with the fuse pulled and it fired right up on the first try and idled on its own without having the hold the throttle or anything. All the vasceline that was burning off sure made for a nice smoke show in my neighborhood pretty much covered the house next to me.

What did the smoke smell like? Could you tell at all? Sounds kind of like oil to me, maybe the oil you put in the TMIC pipe somehow? Not sure. Have you tried firing it back up again? You might wanna do a few unflooding cranks as recent rebuilds have very low compression on the first startup and you should leave it on for a half hour or so after the initial startup. I know you couldn't and it was probably the best idea to shut it off, but it might be all flooded now.

I'll assume you've already done a quick fluids check and for leaks and such, but if you haven't do that first obviously

Ya, after removing the UIM the only fluid puddles were from the 2 stroke oil... I'm almost positive that this was what I smelled burning-- cause the smoke didn't smell like regular oil, it wasn't sweet like coolant and it didn't smell like fuel... It was kind of a low-key, rubbery acidic smell, greyish brown in color. At first I thought it might be a part of my wiring harness burning up, but it wasn't quite as pungent as an electrical fire. I'm pretty sure it was the 2 stroke oil, I think Steve put a lot in (I didn't see). I personally don't know exactly how the air (or in this case 2 stroke oil) moves around inside the hoses, but the fact that a lot of the smoke (after the car was turned off) came out of the OTHER intercooler pipe (that goes into the top of the turbo... I guess I'm making a connection.
Old 01-21-05, 08:23 PM
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Yah sounds like it's the 2stroke, next time don't put it in the intercooler pipe

Unless this is something someone suggested to you? I had never heard of doing that before.
Old 01-21-05, 08:27 PM
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If the engine parts (and turbo) were sitting around for a while, the engine will tend to smoke up to 30 minutes to an hour after getting it restarted.
This is normal.
Once the engine starts and we get the idle to stabilize, we rev it a few times (up to 4kRPM) just to heat things up.
This tends to get rid of the smoke quicker.
As long as you don't smell coolant, fuel, oil burning or anything dripping under the car, let the smoke burn off the parts.



-Ted
Old 01-21-05, 08:30 PM
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yup mine smoked for 1:15 after I first started it after new rebuild.
Old 01-21-05, 11:00 PM
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so, I put the car back together after finding nothing under strange going on under the UIM. I had a couple of friends push me (to compression start it). We got it started, but since there was no light where they pushed me to, they pushed me back, lol. Anyways, it didn't start smoking til it had ran for about a minute, but by the time they had pushed me back it was beginning to smoke from the same place; behind the air-pump and under the UIM (maybe even deeper?).

Here's the thing though; there was a line of drips like -->........................, all the way from where I was pushed to, and then back. It was coolant. After we shut it off after letting it run for about 3 minutes (it could idle on it's own), it was still smoking alot, bubbling and 'crackling' from around the turbo/airpump/intake manifolds. We couldn't locate exactly where, but I know that the smoke wasn't just coolant (which is white-ish, stings your eyes and smells very sweet), you really had to pull the smoke towards you with your hands and inhale deep to smell the coolant. So it's confusing because I'm thinking that there is both smoke coming from a coolant leak somewhere and smoke coming from the 2 stroke oil dripping into the turbo.

The alternator was very hot, as was the exhaust side of the turbo.

Where should I look for the coolant leak if I couldn't see it with the UIM off?
Old 01-21-05, 11:14 PM
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Have you checked the coolant and oil lines for the turbo to see if they're leaking at all? Since this is happening right around this area I'd check those, both on the turbo and where they get the feed.

Btw, how come you're compression starting the car each time? Just curious.
Old 01-21-05, 11:17 PM
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there are little rubber o-rings that go into the Lower intake manifold, when you installed the LIM did you install those, if not you could be getting some smoking from both your exhaust and some may drip onto the exhaust and it would smoke, same with driping on the ground.
Old 01-21-05, 11:40 PM
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hey jreynish, the o-rings you speak of are for coolant right?

I think what I'll do is put some plywood or something under my car and see if I can trace the leaking.

I do have ALOT of o-rings left over from my Atkins rebuild kit...
Old 01-22-05, 01:36 AM
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yes they are for coolant holes that come from the Rotor housings, There is only one hole in the LIM but there is one in each rotor housing, so you would have to had two o-rings for each housing along with the gasket between the block and LIM
Old 01-23-05, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Have you checked the coolant and oil lines for the turbo to see if they're leaking at all? Since this is happening right around this area I'd check those, both on the turbo and where they get the feed.

Btw, how come you're compression starting the car each time? Just curious.
^ good question, lol. My car won't start unless I compression start it. My brand new battery was sucked dry the night after I got it. I let it sit in the engine bay overnight (hooked up) and the next day I tried to start it and it was completely dead. That and the fact that my housings were pretty worn and my spark-plugs are pretty grungy.

So, for an update:

I believe I have 2 coolant leaks, and I definitely have an oil leak that drips every 2 seconds from under my turbo. It is more than likely the oil feed line or return line (I don't know) that goes in under my turbo... It's the one that comes out of my front cover.

It was really confusing when I first got it started, cause there was smoke from coolant, smoke from 2 stroke oil dripping into my turbo and smoke from conventional oil dripping from the oil line under my turbo.

How would anyone suggest fixing this oil line? Should I remove all of the stuff on the front of my engine and try and attack it in that direction, or is there a better way? It seemed like a pretty akward place to get to.

One of the coolant leaks is coming from the heater-hose going into the cabin, kind of behind the driver side intercooler piping. The other... I have no idea. Shoot.

As soon as I get my battery back from being recharged at Schucks, I'm going to compression test my motor and make sure I've got compression from all rotor faces. My car seriously feels SO weak, it feels like my N/A did when I blew an apex seal in my rear rotor... Is this normal?

The car has probably ran for a total of 30-40 minutes and it's been driven one block.
Old 01-24-05, 02:36 AM
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Dont drive it till you at least identifie the leaks. check the water pump to block for leaks. try tightening the bolt on the turbo. you should'nt have to pop start it. are you sure your injector wires aren't crossed ? cas is set ?clean the plugs squirt a couple of shot's of atf in the lower holes, if all is good should fire.
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