FC3SKILLA7

So for fuel lines to be the right way around, Line from the filter to the to the rail with the pulseation dampner on? and the line from the pressure regulator to the line that runs throught the fire wall??

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yep

FC3SKILLA7

Im so stumped i just cant figure it out, pulled the manifold off and there is obvious injector pulse(can hear them pulse). So ive taken a video, just a short one but maybe someone in their almighty wisdom will know the answer to this problem. can hear comp the manifold is still partially off!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1RUSfgnc5o

FC3SKILLA7

Can Anyone Help?????

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

The crank sounds strong, and I can hear the exhaust "thump" so it sounds like you have some good compression. Do what everyone else says, and go over the fuel system. Start simple and make sure your injectors are wired in the right order.

My rebuild sounded exactly like yours and I had my injectors all wired wrong. Then one popped and really flooded the **** out of my engine and I had to send it out for service.

After my brief period of stupidity I wired everything correctly and withing 5 seconds my first rebuild cranked, started and idled perfect.

FC3SKILLA7

So ive finally finished my exams and have some free time. so i thought id check for injector pulse. So hooked up the test light to the negative and test for supply! have power supply! so i hooked the test light to a power supply and tested for a ground (negative), cranked the engine with negative side probed no pulse WTF.... MMMMMMMM no luck. so now im stumped, what could be causing this???

Any help would be much appreciated guys!!!!!

ifryrice

Were you checking the correct wire for pulsing? One of the wires is wired directly back to the EGI fuse (through the main relay), and should see +12V constantly. The other, will be switched from +12V to ground whenever the ECU pulses it. The pulse is going to be so fast you'll have a hard time using a test light to identify it.

Edit: I reread most of the thread and listened to the video. I'll lay out a list of things and a general order to check them in.

A) Remove the EGI fuses, remove the leading plugs from each rotor, put a 19mm wrench on the front crank pulley and perform 3 complete rotations at least. Every half turn, you should get a compression pulse out of one of the rotor's, and it'll alternate from front to back. Verify that they all audibly sound relatively the same and that there's no missed pulses (ie the front rotor pulses twice in a row), it should always alternate between them.
B) With the plugs out and available, put one in a spark plug lead, replace your removed fuses, and verify that each plug is firing a decent spark. Either clean/replace if needed.
C) Prime your fuel system and listen for the 'running water' sound, do this buy jumpering the fuel test connector located near the AFM. If you can't hear fuel moving through the lines it's a good indicator they're either hooked up backwards or the pump isn't providing enough pressure to pass the pressure regulator.
D) As mentioned above, assemble everything and have someone spray starting fluid in the intake while cranking and see if it'll fire at all. If it does so, try holding the AFM door open by hand and seeing if you can get the car to fire/run. (You can also try to disconnect it and crank)
Ea) If the above resulted in the car firing, or even starting then stalling, it's probably a fuel delivery issue or a vacuum leak (if it runs with the AFM held open)
Eb) If starting fluid did nothing, verify your plug wires are correctly connected, check that your CAS wiring is making it back to the ECU properly, verify each injector is connected properly (verify each wire color matches the position of the injector). Also, it'd probably be a good time to restab the CAS using the method of removing the cover to verify that it's not getting set a tooth off as you're installing it.

F) Post results.

FC3SKILLA7

Of course, The one has constant power and the other is negative. I was check for pulse from the negative. I have checked for pulse like this before and had no issues with using a test light i will try my multi meter tommorow but im pretty certain there is know pulse!

ifryrice

It's only negative for whatever pulsewidth the ECU is sending, which isn't a whole lot at first. An easy way to verify that the wiring is intact is to verify that you can read +12V on both injector wires with the key 'ON' without cranking. While cranking the voltage on the one wire should drop if you monitor the + feed from the ECU, if you monitor the ground pulse itself, the voltage will show up rather minimal without a scope/meter capable of reading pulsewidths, I figure with how little the duration would be during cranking you probably wouldn't get much response with a test light unless the duty was somewhat higher. In either case, verify that there's +12V on both wires going to each injector first, that'll eliminate wiring as a possibility. After that it's either the ECU or the signal from the CAS.

Vierte

iTrader: (2)

most of these guys are right on with their suggestions.

idk if anyone said this but replace your plugs.. even if they are new. only rebuild first start problem ive ever had was due to brand new plugs being junk... after an hour of trouble shooting i swapped in some old leadings and it fired up first crank.

Vierte

iTrader: (2)

i just re-read through some of your post... and you seem to be going about things in the wrong... you cannot "think" you have it correct. you have to verify for sure everything required systematically... otherwise you will take 10 times as long to figure out your problem.

step 1. check for spark.

pull a plug wire. put a plug in it and set it on a grounded surface.. (shock tower works well) crank it. if you get a nice bright spark then good.

step 2. stab the crank sensor.

rotate the motor clockwise till the timing pin on the front cover lines up with the first timing mark on the front pulley. if you remove the fan you can use a rachet to rotate the motor easily. pull the crank sensor and align the dot on the gear with the mark on the housing of the crank sensor. gently drop the sensor back into place.. it may move a little but will be close enough to start.

step 3. check timing

crank it with a timing light attached to the L1 (leading 1) spark plug wire. point the light at the crank and see if the timing mark aligns with the pin when it flashes.. (sounded like you were confused about timing lights) if the timing mark lines up with the pin then it is timed correctly. if not you can rotate the crank sensor until it does.. but not required to start as long as its close.



ill continue shortly..

Toxindude

Haven't read over much of this thread but just wanted to ask is your fuel injector resistor pack working?

FC3SKILLA7

Where is this located??


............................

Sorry about the lack of update, its hard to do anything these days (6-6 courier) so il try and get some free time thiss weekend and update you with everything that has gone on!! gota do the tests ive been meaning to just getting to the car is hard atm

HAILERS

1986 cars have one and the cars built in the first half of 1987 have one. The solenoid resistor package is bolted to the body below the afm/air filter assy. But if you have power on one wire of each injector plug, then it is connected up and there's no need to go looking for it. IT supplys batt power to the injectors.

What year/series car is yours?

One quick way of seeing if you have spark and don't want to wear down the starter/battery, is to just pull the CAS out and then put the key to ON only. Then sping the CAS bottom gear while watching for spark from the coils. One way to do this is to pull one sparkplug wire out of the bore of the coil assy and let it rest just a 1/8" outside the bore while turning the CAS bottom gear with key to just ON. Large spark should occur.

Another thing to do with the CAS out of the engine, is to disable both coil assy by pulling off the small white connectors to each of them. Then with key to ON only, flip the bottom gear of the CAS and listen. You should hear the injectors clicking as you do that. Proves the ECU is sending/pulsing a gnd to the injectors.

If those things work........pull the return line off the engine. That's the line that does not go to the fuel filter. Then with all connectors connected, spin the engine with the starter. Fuel should flow out the hard line on the engine if the fuel system is routed correctly, but should only flow out that hard line when the key is HELD to START. Before doing this make sure the jumper in the fuel pump check connector is NOT jumpered and take precautions to make sure the fuel coming out that hard line on the engine has some receptacle to catch the gasoline/petrol so it won't cause a fire etc.

FC3SKILLA7

Ive got spark!!! YAYAH, But i was rotating my cas for injector click and only two click?? its not the injectors its the wiring cause i switched the clicking wires onto the non clicking injectors and they clicked. Is it suppose to do this, do they only fire primarys on startup?