2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Fouling plugs above 5000rpm

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Old 03-13-05 | 09:51 PM
  #26  
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Ok I put the dp/mp/apexi n1 on. It's a fuckload faster, thats for damn sure. It's up to 11psi, but it still breaks up at 5000rpm. I also removed the air pump and ACV.

Not really sure what I'm going to do at this point....

My tentative plan is to wait a few months, pull the UIM, get the injectors cleaned and put an AFC on it... I guess it'll still be a bandaid.

I noticed also that the o2 wire was pretty chewed up. I replaced some of it. but it looks cracked going into the harness.
Old 03-15-05 | 08:43 AM
  #27  
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any idea's beyond an S-AFC here? I'm shooting flames with the apex'i exhaust.

I've found that sometimes it will "break through" the hesitation and pick up at 6k rpm and run fine till redline.
Old 03-15-05 | 09:24 AM
  #28  
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maybe related to the twin scroll sticking... are you using the twin scroll system on the Turbo?
Old 03-15-05 | 09:25 AM
  #29  
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No this is a series 5 car, engine and turbo. (never mind the car in the sig. I've got so many damn rx7's.).
Old 03-15-05 | 09:34 AM
  #30  
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I think I'll just pick up a techedge for now to accurately display just how rich i'm running.
Old 03-25-05 | 11:18 AM
  #31  
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As a follow up to this thread the issue my car was having was that the thermowax was not opening all the way due to clogged coolant passages in the TB. I found this while peforming the TB mod and realized what happened after I read this article on the FC3Spro.com web page.

"High idle problems can be caused by the cold-start thermowax or the corresponding coolant passages for the thermowax. The high idle is usually a very consistent 1,200RPM to 3,000RPM.

Clogged coolant passages prevent proper functioning of the thermowax by preventing proper coolant flow. The thermowax doesn't melt, and the throttle plates are stuck in the high-idle position. These coolant passages from from the back of the water pump housing to the BAC valve to the throttle body and eventually end going down the top of the rear rotor side housing.

If the thermowax itself failed, you'll need to replace the unit. "
Old 03-25-05 | 11:38 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
As a follow up to this thread the issue my car was having was that the thermowax was not opening all the way due to clogged coolant passages in the TB. I found this while peforming the TB mod and realized what happened after I read this article on the FC3Spro.com web page.

"High idle problems can be caused by the cold-start thermowax or the corresponding coolant passages for the thermowax. The high idle is usually a very consistent 1,200RPM to 3,000RPM.

Clogged coolant passages prevent proper functioning of the thermowax by preventing proper coolant flow. The thermowax doesn't melt, and the throttle plates are stuck in the high-idle position. These coolant passages from from the back of the water pump housing to the BAC valve to the throttle body and eventually end going down the top of the rear rotor side housing.

If the thermowax itself failed, you'll need to replace the unit. "
What does that have to do with a hesitation problem? Thats the same **** thats happening to me. Past 5k rpm hiting close to 10 the car sputters and stops...have to let go of the gas... Msd helped it out alot.
My condition happend by running realy rich. I found out one day when something dangerous happend. I was testing out the car in 2nd gear, and the afm popped off the TID. The car then suddenly pulled beautifully and quickly died( fuel cut from the flapper being closed).
Old 03-25-05 | 12:09 PM
  #33  
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my car has the stuck high idle that is described above and i also have the problem that started the thread but my car is a S4 plugs are fouled can i cant get the RPMs above about 5000 even while not in gear

when i try i get tons of black smoke out the pipes and its acts like its hitting a rev limiter as in it will just kinda bounce around up there not going past 5500 or so

can i remove the thermo wax without removing the TP and UIM cause the last guy that had the car put some sort of gasket schlack (sp?) on there and i cant get them apart for the life of me they are stuck good and yes i do have all the bolts and nuts taken out
Old 03-25-05 | 12:18 PM
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No you really need to take off the UIM to get to the TB and do the TB mod.
Old 03-25-05 | 12:20 PM
  #35  
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That Thermowax **** just has me baffled.......
"I'll control my car by.......Wax....thats it, that's the ticket".

Just seems hokey or McGyverish to me.
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