junito1

OK. One of my injectors is being a bitch. Well more like the wiring for the injector..

When i crank my car up it starts off fine but after 30 seconds to a minute the car starts running on one rotor. I wiggle the primaries a little and push down on the plug and the car will run on TWO rotors. But it will go to ONE rotor after a couple of minutes.

The car has new primary injectors plugs soldered.

I checked the plugs with a tester and one plug reads low on HEAT. LOwer than the other. LIke a 1/4 compared to the other.



SHould i check the wires where they meet the ecu.? What do i do?

HAILERS

You, well at least I can't push down on the primary injectors or their plugs unless I take the upper intake off.

You Sure your not pushing down on the secondary injectors?

Well maybe you can somehow. Anyway, if I wanted to know if the primary injectors were having a ground pulsed to them by the ECU, I'd first buy me a LED light like the one I'll eventually attach to this thread.

One wire on the LED is positive and the other is negative. The LED will only work if the positive wire is connected to a 12v source and the negative to a source of ground.

So you'd go to Radio Shack and buy a LED light like the one in the jpg. I suppose you have a series four car. So you go to the small plug on the ECU. You trim the insulation off the positive wire and insert that wire in the back of the Black/White wire on the far left top of the small plug.

You trim the insulation off the end of the negative wire and insert that wire into the back of either the Light green wire or the Light green/black wires of the small plug. See jpg.

When you crank the engine over with the starter they should blink. If at idle the blinking will be fast. If you rev the engine high you won't see 'em blink, it'll be more of a light on all the time because the ground is pulsed in milliseconds, but the light should be lit.

No light means the ECU is'nt pulsing a ground or you have the LED wires backwards or the LED wires are not up the back of the ECU wires enough and not making contact.

LG wire is front primary and LG/B is the rear primary. See jpg.

To make sure you know which LED wire is positive and which is negative, go to the battery. Put one wire on the pos post and the other on the neg post of the battery. IF the light lights up, then you have ID'd which wire on the LED is pos and which is neg. If the light does not light up, then switch the wires around. If it lights up you now have Id'd which wire is pos and which is neg.

Never ever use a common light buld to do this or you'll trash your ECU.

junito1

I have long fingers...?


The front primary is eaier to wiggle/push on. Buty the rear is trickier but i can do it...


YEs im sure im not pushing on my secondaries

HAILERS

Something like shown in the attached jpg.

That's sort of cobbled up. Some wires are missing out of that small plug, but that's the general idea. Light should pulse when cranking or at idle. At rev's higher than say 1000 rpm or so, the light will stay on and you won't be able to distinguish the blinking of the LED.

The blinking at idle shows the ECU is pulsing a gnd to the injector. The light being on also more or less confirms the ECU is pulsing a gnd to the injector(s).

I don't really have any good ideas why one rotor falls out after a while. ECU are pretty bullet proof. CAS don't fail. Sparkplug wires sometimes arc to something and don't cause the plug to fire. Both Lead plugs fire at the same time so if one lead plug gets fire the other should also ........unless the wire is shorting to something.

Come to think of it, this just proves the ECU is pulsing a ground or not. It does not tell if the injector itself is pulsing or even if the plug is connected at the injector.

To see if the plug is connected, you'd get a meter and put its neg lead on a known ground. The the positive lead up the backside of the light green or light green/black wire and key to ON. You should see batt voltage on the meter if it's on dc volts.

You could pull the small plug off the ECU to see that. Maybe probe the plug from the side of the plug that mates with the ECU. The batt voltage should be there if the key is ON and the plug is on the injector. You could start at that voltage while someone else wiggles the injector connectors. If the reading on the meter comes and goes as you wiggle the injector plug, then that injector plug is not making good contact.

HAILERS

I've done that with the LED on the ECU small plug just to see if that works or not. I usually use a meter that has duty cycle on it by backprobing the injector wire and putting the meters neg wire to a known gnd.

Or nowdays with a RTEK2.0 just look at the Palm display. Unfortunatly that display does not let one look at individual injectors duty cycle like the meter does.

junito1

Ok. this car has a mind of its own? Last time i cranked it.. she cranked perfect on 2 rotors and then after 30 secs it went to one rotor.. SO the last time i shut her off was on one rotor.. I havent touched here since then.. BUT i HAD to move the car. SO she cranks and runs perfect for over 3 minutes...

IM thinking. Testing the ecu with a meter wont make a diff if she funtions normally.
I have to wait till she wants ot be on one rotor to start testing crap out with the meter?

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

more then likely its one of 3 things...

1- you have a fault in the connector and it needs to be replaced (most likely)

2- you have a bad injector that is sticking closed (probably not the case)

3- you have a piece of crap floating around in the fuel system

BTW... are you sure it isn't a ignition issue... maybe its a bad coil/plug wire or fouled plug???

junito1

Well i checked spark s few times the oldschool way.. Sticking a screwdriver in the spark plug wire and laying it in the strut tower and then watch for the arc...

All 4 had spark.

I going with your number 1. I did solder new injector plugs. Thats wasnt the problem.

THe resistor pack is reading good.. (but then again my car is running normal again.. SO i dunno?)

I want to check injector wire right on the ecu plug.. (BUt I have to wait till she decides to run on 1 rotor again?) Casue it will read ok?

HAILERS

If you suspect the injector plug isn't connected good, then you put your meter on one primary wire and key to ON. The meter should read batt voltage. Then watch the meter as someone shakes that particular injector wiring. If there is a *open* it'll show up on the meter by the voltage disappering or flickering.

No meter? Then pull the small plug and put the LED's postive lead on whichever primary injector wire your interested in and the negative LED wire on a known ground. Key to ON. The LED will light up. Then watch the light to flicker or go off as someone shakes the wiring for that particular injector.

Or buy two LEDS and connect them to both primary injectors. They will light up when your driving. IF one rotor drops out because of a injector problem, then that LED will also stop lighting up.

Sparkplug wiress arcing can cause a rotor to drop out. Only a Lead sparkplug wire would cause the rotor to stop working, not a trail plug. And if you had a trail plug problem, your tach would also drop out. Not that you'd notice it besides that. IF you decide to go in the direction of the coils being the problem, the forget the trails altogether. Ain't a gonna happen, even if they fall on the ground while your driving.

Make sure the lead plug wires are seperated from eachother and any other plug wire.

junito1

I like the idea with the 2 LED's when i go for the test drive. IM getting the her tagged soon.

My spark plug wires are not organized at all... Didnt think it really mattered..
Tom. Morning they are all getting seperated and sorted.