DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Except for the fact it's sold, yes .

The TurboXS BOV's are excellent - the Type H, which is the bigger "race" BOV, works great - blows off smooth at all throttle inputs, doesn't leak, flows a lot of air, sounds good, cheap....it's a great way to go.

The TurboXS BOV's come with both steel and aluminum flanges - another plus.

Dale

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Even though you have your fuel setup somewhat in check, you're REALLY pushing it at that boost level at the stock intercooler - severely overheated air can lead to detonation. I don't recommend past 10psi on the stock intercooler for that reason.

I don't know what turbo the guy is running, but 14psi on the stock turbo is mighty bad - that will kill bearings REALLY quick. 12psi is about as far as the stock turbo can reliably go.

Dale

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Actually, race BOV's don't tend to leak - that's why they're race BOV's . The springs are VERY stiff, and you get compressor surge at low throttle applications, like driving around town. In a race environment, that wouldn't be an issue.

You can open-air vent a blowoff valve on the stock ECU with minimal drivability problems - I drove for a LONG time with this setup. You really need a good BOV that seals well, though - a rigged up check valve setup on the stock CBV can lead to drivability problems. Not to mention being terribly ghetto.

Talking to Corky Bell about mounting the BOV, he recommends mounting it "wherever you've got some room for it" . Most times space limitations will dictate where the BOV is placed.

Dale

Ryde _Or_Die

How come the trend in Aus. seems to be "get as high boost as possible"? I've seen many people(from Aus.) pushing 15#+ on the stock i/c & turbo.

Evil Aviator

... and when you try to set them up so that they don't surge (the whole point of a BOV) then they tend to leak. However, I probably should not have generalized racing BOV's since they are all different. It would have been more accurate to say that just because a BOV (or any product) is used in racing, doesn't necessarily mean that it is good for a street car.

An excellent point. However, I think it's still a good idea to understand the optimal BOV locations so that you at least have a reference point.

Will you please ask the good Mr. Bell to include the rotary engine in the next revisions of his books? I'm spending a lot of time explaining to people that they need to remove the 0.5 from the cfm calculations. Also, 1bar = 14.5psi. BTW, the supercharger book is absolutely fantastic, and I especially like the more modern lb/min compressor maps and EFI references.

wai

do you know any easy ways to cut the hole?do I have to relocate my coolant tank and the cooling fan?

Ryde _Or_Die

Ya I was wondering if I have to move anything(a/c, p/s, battery, etc)?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Nope, you keep all the nice things . The battery can stay in the stock location, but you do have to trim one of the hold-down tabs on the battery tray - no biggie. The leading coil is relocated with a bracket that comes with the kit. The main fuse block is also relocated with a bracket that comes with the kit.

I *think* you probably have to remove the windshield washer tank - mine was already gone, but the piping runs through that area. You definitely have to remove the air silencer that the ACV vents to that's under the passenger side headlight, but that's no biggie.

I think you can actually keep the air pump as well.

Dale

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

There's really no easy way to cut the hole - I used an air powered angle grinder, and it went pretty quick. You can actually use a hole saw on the passenger side, too.

A Dremel and a ton of cut-off wheels should work as well. You do have to go slow and be patient - frame steel is pretty sturdy stuff!

The coolant overflow tank doesn't need to be relocated or modified in any way, nor does the electric fan. The intercooler sits WAY in the front of the car, much more forward than the old GReddy or HKS kits.

Dale

Ryde _Or_Die

Alright everything seems fine, but can I just rmove the whole acv? And I am going to get rid of the air pump as well. Thanks for the reply.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Racing BOV's are usually necessary in VERY high boost applications, and typically in an application where low boost and low throttle openings are rarely realized - like on a racetrack or drag strip.

But, yes, they're definitely not a good idea for a street car - this is one application where the word "race" is not foolin'

Dale

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

All you have to eliminate is the air pump relief silencer, which is a big canister under the headlight - the air pump and ACV will still work just fine, but you may get some weird noises . I'm just tossing that out for anyone that might have to deal with emissions.

Anyhow, if you have no cats, dump the ACV and air pump by all means. The intercooler has no impact on either of them, though.

Dale

Scott 89t2

that's when you use 2

vmb

does greedy or hks sell the tubes without the intercooler core?

tIIforever

is it just me or does only 210hp at 14 psi sound low

Chris Ng

Depends on his state of tune and type of turbo he is running (I couldn't decipher what h/f turbo meant)

If running the stock turbo, then it sounds about right..

I'm running your standard to4b hybrid turbo with a relativly small compressor wheel.. my last dyno put me at 270.4hp @ 5900rpm and 254ft/lbs @ 3500rpm

Ryde _Or_Die

No I agree. I would think you can get 210rwhp at 10# with full exhaust and intake. That is if you can keep the boost at 10#.

vmb

hey answer my question !
anybody sells the pipes without the core?

vmb

bump

vmb

UP

Ryde _Or_Die

vmb, I don't think anyone knows. I doubt they do. What would you want just the piping for? You would need custom work done for a different core and if your going to get custom work might as well have the whole job done. It would more than likely be cheaper.

vmb

the hardest part is on the drives side ,where the piping needs to clear the ps pump ....if i can get the piping kit to the front of the vech it would be a easy task ....i just wanted to see if the piping kit was sold seperate and would be cheaper AND EASIER to get then to buy mandrel bends !......but if no one knows oh well

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

if you want the bov to sound badass, mount it as close to the intercooler as possible. thats where all the high flow air is. then it will sound like this supra.




real bov's sound like this

Rx7Nub

I didn't know they made 86 T2's..

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

maybe its an aussie thing. some weird **** goes on down there.