Fatty_FC3S

Hey all, i have a good question to be answered and that would be good to have a answer for when searching for "front mount intercoolers". I used to have a greddy front mount intercooler, but i took it off since i was always having problems with the car running too hot. I removed all my air conditioning and upgraded to a mazdacomp race radiator with a Black magic electric fan.

1. Whoever has any type of front mount intercooler, how did you solve the heat issues with using the intercooler? I live in california so it can get pretty hot here in the summer.

2. What about the oil getting hot? My oil runs pretty warm and i know the front mount just makes it worse (runs up to 240 degrees OUT of the motor in the oilpan) when going up a hill or on boost.

3. Do the vented hoods help pull much heat off of my radiator and oil cooler? Or is this just all a cosmetic thing that people do

4. Does having a custom front bumper (like the border kit) help with cooling?

Im looking for real answers to these problems, not just some company bullshit about how "this product is supposed to work". Who has actually MADE this all work and how did you do it? I would certainly appreciate any help as would anyone else thinking about a FMIC. Thanks to everyone.

Graham

RETed

Big upgrade radiator with a strong electric fan.

That's WAY too hot!&nbsp Do you still have the black, plastic undertray intact?&nbsp You need to duct airflow into the oil cooler somehow...

Yes, it helps.&nbsp The hard part is finding a "cheap" one...

It helps a little, but the cost versus cooling gains are not worth it.&nbsp Bottom line, people don't buy aftermarket front bumpers to improve cooling most of the time...


-Ted

Fatty_FC3S

I already have a huge radiator and the Black Magic is the biggest fan you can get. This setup runs great without the FMIC, the heat coming out of the motor (non cooled by radiator) never gets over about 195 degrees even on hot days.

The oil temperatures i gave are before the oil is cooled, i know that it shoulnt be hotter than 210 going INTO the motor AFTER cooling. Mine is up to 240 Before cooling. It jumps up REALLY fast, but just puttering around its usually around 190 or so before cooling. Just wonder why it jumps so fast and takes so long to cool back down. I even thought about getting a 2nd T2 oil cooler and connecting it so both are in line, hence 2x cooling. Still worry with FMIC though.

Mark S

iTrader: (1)

You might want to check the thermo-pellett behind the main drive pulley. When they fail, (so I've read) they usually do so in the closed position preventing oil fom reaching the cooler

RETed

Mazda claims the oiling system handles 1/3rd the heat generated by the rotary engine.&nbsp I dunno how your car is set-up, but you're running multiple oil temp sensors?&nbsp So 240F before oil cooler is not unusual - as long as it's under that before going back into the engine, you should be fine...



-Ted

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

with the added intercooler u are makign the air colder and denser so u are pushign more of it in there, and be running a littel lean, that can lead to higher temperatures.. so check for detonation and check your timing. look at spark plugs. just a suggestion

cymfc3s

actually its the opposite. The colder the intake charge, the less chance of detonation. If your going to run a front mount, definitely consider a radiator upgrade with a black magic fan.

RotaryMan88

So if I put my FMIC up w/ the stock clutch fan and radiator...you all are saying I'm going to run too hot? if this is the case, I'll need to advise a new setup...or maybe duct some air over or around the FMIC to the radiator.

Maxthe7man

Hmm, not true guy.. The denser the air, the more o2 there is going into the motor, the more fuel you need.. The only time I ever heard my motor detonate was when I was running 8 psi when it was about 0 degree outside, that was the coldest I ever ran the car in, and my a/f showed it was running leaner than when it was warmer( but still pretty rich), I had to add some fuel via the s-afc to correct for the denser charge, when it was warmer out 35-40, the car started to run rich, so I had to take the correction out. The heat of the charge comes from the compression of the air, the denser is packed, the more heat of compression you will have, cool charge will help avoid pinging, but the fuel has to be there as well, thats why the cars are barometric and temperature compensated within the confines of the fuel maps. Also the colder the charge going into the motor, the higher the combustion pressures are, thats why cold air makes more power than warm air, when you increase your combustion pressures to the point that gasoline reaches its critical pressure, it auto ignites, and PING...
Here is another example of how much more air is going through the motor when the air is super cold, I get boost creep when its cold, but not when its above about 40, the wastegate can't handle the volume of gases coming out of the motor when the air is cold, but holds boost better as it gets warmer..Max