eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

So yeah, got everything installed and took it out for a "bumper-less" test drive. However several times during the initial drive, the car would buck significantly and at the same time the TACH would go to zero before popping back up to the regular RPM... Well, this happened on several "boost" runs and once was pretty severe and accompanied by a loud backfire.

I drove it home, checked everything and noticed that if I touched my UNMOUNTED ingition coil, or wiggle it, the car would idle differently and almost die.

I turned the car off, screwed the coil in place and then started the car and revved it several times in neutral. Well, it did the "tach drop" a couple times, with the backfire and major misfire--but then the car immediately died. We noticed that the EGI COMP fuse was blown, so we replaced it with the RETRACTOR fuse (headlights, of the same amperage). As soon as I tried to start the car again, the EGI COMP fuse sparked and blew...

What did I do wrong? Is there a certain way that the COIL needs to be installed? Could I have messed something up with the fuel-injector resistor box by the pass headlight? All of the strage electrical box things behind the headlight are not bolted down to make room for my FMIC piping. However the majority of these things haven't been bolted down since I installed my 3" TID a while back...

Thanks,

~Erik

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

It's funny... I'll always post a technical question when I run into a problem because I think that my problem is unique. But then when I see that no one's responding I'll start searching... Funny thing is, when I check back later after filling my head with knowledge, my original question sounds pretty "noobish", lol.

Since I can no longer use the stock coils mounting holes for grounding, whats the best method of grounding the coil? I currently have a thick 4-gauge wire running from the new mounting bolt to the negative battery terminal... However when I replaced the fuse and tried to start the car--it wouldn't start. I wonder if I fried my coil...?

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

I just replaced the "suspect" coil with a good one, and the car still won't fire... Perhaps my new coil location and grounding setup is faulty?

However, the car did start, run, drive and boost with the coil just wedged in place before this stupid problem came about... Hmm. I'm crossing my fingers that my ECU didn't fry.

Does anyone know if the injector resistor box tucked under the pass. headlight needs to be grounded? I've never had any problems with just "tucking" it somewhere to make room for TID's etc., but I really have no idea...

I'm open to suggestions.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

stock harness?
i assume you dont have air control valve anymore with the fmic?
check those black and white plugs...
they short, they blow egi fuse. maybe its touching the exhaust?

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the response.

Nah, I don't have the ACV anymore, but I also didn't really mess with anything that "far back" in the engine bay during the FMIC install, just all the wiring up "front" on both sides. I guess it's kinda bad because I don't know what half the plugs and wires that I messed with are... Either way, I'm still really focused on the Lead coil, since I know that it affects the TACH signal and the spark etc., and that's what was going haywire before I blew the fuses and found myself in this "not starting" predicament...

Regardless, the last couple of times I've attempted to start the car with the Leading coil in it's current spot, it hasn't blown the EGI fuse... So yeah, there's currently a good EGI fuse in there, but it's still not starting.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

If you have another coil or can get a hold of one, swap it on. Its quite possible that its been fried.......but thats a strange problem.

Also - the tach is fed (Im assuming you are using the stock tach?) from the trailing coil...not leading. May be something you wnat to inspect back there....

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Well, like I said, I did swap out the "suspect" leading coil with a known good one. But yeah, I didn't know about the trailing coil affecting the TACH, however I don't think the problem lies back there because I didn't touch anything.

Also, if the leading coil is really not firing, then it would make sense that the RPM's drop on the TACH right?

Could the Greddy FMIC piping be grounding something out by hitting the brake master-cylinder? (I seriously have no idea, lol).

Thanks for the response.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

sorry I missed that you'd swapped out the leading coil...that kinda rules that out.

It is possible the piping is gorunding something out by hitting a couple different bare metal spots...maybe try putting a temp. piece of rubber in between a few obvious contact areas and try and fire it?

as far as the tach is concerned though - it MAY just be coincidense - even though you didn't touch anything it may have just gone on vacation because. I've had them crap out entirely at random. As far as whether the leading being fubarred affecting the tach signal Im not entirely sure...I am entirely sure that the trailing coil DOES provide the signal for the tach though - 100%.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Shoot... When I turn the key to the ON position the EGI COMP fuse blows...

Now the question is; should I be focusing on the wires that I messed with on the FMIC install, or could I now be dealing with a more "widespread" problem?

HAILERS

The IGNITOR in the coil assy needs a ground for it to work. UNFORTUNATLY it gets it's ground not thru a wire, but thru the base of the coil assy touching the chassis. So the coil assy NEEDS to be bolted to the chassis. Metal to metal.

EDIT: I didn't address your question about the EGI COMP fuse. IF this is a series four car, it has nothing to do with the coil assy's. The EGI INJ feeds the coil assy and the injectors.

I'd go look at the engine fuse box and see if the wires are touching bare metal at that location. IF not there, keep in mind the EGI COMP feeds all the solenoid connectors on the engine. It feeds the black/white wire at each plug on the solenoids plus the solenoids on the ACV. So take that for what it's worth.

If series five............I'm not sure what that EGI COMP feeds or if they even have one. No time to look.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Well... I hate to abrubtly end the mystery, but I think the problem has been solved thanks to the imput of slpin.

After blowing those fuses earlier this morning from just turning the key, I decided that I had to remove EVERYTHING associated with the FMIC and then go over all of the wires that I had even remotely touched in the install... My intention was to try and get the car running with the TMIC, and then slowly reinstall the FMIC if I indeed got the car running in it's "original" condition.

As I was removing the IC pipe from the "top" of the turbo, I noticed that there was a dirty, nasty looking wire hiding behind it, that I recognized as the remnants of my old ACV system... Well, about 2 1/2" of bare wire was exposed!

My theory is that the wire that had been originally "snipped" and left dangling after the ACV removal (before I got the car), had been slowly making contact with the turbo's hotside, which eventually melted through it... I must've bumped this long ignored wire when I was either removing the stock turbo's upper "charge" pipe, or when I was test-fitting the new Greddy pipe.

Anyways, I pulled it away from the engine, as well as isolating all of the other parts of the wiring harness that I was unfamiliar with (in the front of the engine).

I installed another 30A EGI fuse and turned the key to ON. I got out and checked the fuse, no blow! I did it several times in rapid succession and again no-blow.

After seeing this I installed the TMIC, reconnected everything and tried to start the car... Success!

So yeah, now it's just a matter of carefully reinstalling the FMIC and getting back to where I left off at last night.

Thanks for the help and I'll update the thread if I run into anything else. I'm SO glad that I no longer have to live the nightmare of electrical troubleshooting... Knock on wood.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Oh yeah, I have to give you (HAILERS) "follow-up points", because I was hoping you would answer in this thread, and you also alluded to the ACV connectors (even though I said I was certain this area was fine).

slpin

iTrader: (9)

yeah, i bet retad and emocake couldnt tell ya that!

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

don't I get any points for tach=trailing coil?

ecyrb | SLC

Nope, but you do get this wonderful cookie

-enoy

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

weeee
fun fun fun