flywheel nut vs Me
#26
Rotary Freak
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Originally Posted by patman
i thought it was 2 1/8. my local auto parts store lets me borrow it every time i need it. which is good since the price on it is 99 bucks.
pat
pat
#27
Zero Rotor Motorsports
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I paid $38 at Napa because they only had it in 3/4" drive and I only had a 1/2 drive impact. I agree at $99 someone is getting hosed.
I don't need mine anymore - if anyone wants to buy it PM me.
I don't need mine anymore - if anyone wants to buy it PM me.
#30
You guys need to use your heads, the right tools, and some leverage and force in the right places. I do it by myself every time.
I get mine off with 3-4 swings of a large hammer. The whole process takes 4-5 minutes. Maybe I will do a write up on this the next time.
I get mine off with 3-4 swings of a large hammer. The whole process takes 4-5 minutes. Maybe I will do a write up on this the next time.
#31
I like the idea.
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Originally Posted by 13bpower
You guys need to use your heads, the right tools, and some leverage and force in the right places. I do it by myself every time.
I get mine off with 3-4 swings of a large hammer. The whole process takes 4-5 minutes. Maybe I will do a write up on this the next time.
I get mine off with 3-4 swings of a large hammer. The whole process takes 4-5 minutes. Maybe I will do a write up on this the next time.
#32
You've Been Punk'd
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Originally Posted by 13bpower
I get mine off with 3-4 swings of a large hammer. The whole process takes 4-5 minutes. Maybe I will do a write up on this the next time.
#34
You've Been Punk'd
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every tried to hold down one side of the motor when someone else does that? its not easy. with the hammer its easier and you only need one person really.
#36
i'll blow YOUR valve off
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dude i milled a socket for it... but thats not the point... i also had a 5-ft length of 3/4 ID steel pipe (for making pipe clamps) and that made a hell of a breaker bar
i gotta take one off soon, and the thread locking compound i used will make sure i use at least about 600 ft-lbs to get it off
i gotta take one off soon, and the thread locking compound i used will make sure i use at least about 600 ft-lbs to get it off
#37
Zero Rotor Motorsports
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Originally Posted by Dan H
Wow, where are you guys getting them...
I got my Craftsman 2 1/8th socket at Sears for only $25 plus the $7 for the 1/2-->3/4 adaptor.
I got my Craftsman 2 1/8th socket at Sears for only $25 plus the $7 for the 1/2-->3/4 adaptor.
#38
XBL** Ownicus
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So... uh... you got the nut off now, how do you plan on getting it torqued on at the original pressure? Or does is 230 ft/lbs the correct number and it just get's tightened over the years of engine spinage?
#39
Senior Member
Hi everybody,
I'm usually just a lurker, but today I just can't resist posting (although I doubt the following will be news to most of you). Mazdatrix has a great socket welded to a piece of flat bar stock. At $36, it's cheaper than a 2-1/8" socket, and it appears unbreakable. I use a 4" length of flat bar stock from Home Depot as the flywheel stopper (just drill 2 holes that line up with the mounting holes for the clutch pressure plate. Then, on reassembly, I use a bathroom scale to torque the nut. I forget the exact numbers, but my method is to put a block of wood on the scale, rest wrench handle on the wood, and then pull up on the scale. I then read the pressure I'm applying to the wrench from the scale readout. If I apply 150lbs of pressure at a point on the wrench that's exactly 2 feet from the center of the nut, then I know I have 150 * 2 = 300 ft-lb of torque.
This is a pretty simple method, and I'd be amazed if it's news to everybody (especially based on some of the excellent advice I usually find in this forum), but I thought I'd post just in case.
I'm usually just a lurker, but today I just can't resist posting (although I doubt the following will be news to most of you). Mazdatrix has a great socket welded to a piece of flat bar stock. At $36, it's cheaper than a 2-1/8" socket, and it appears unbreakable. I use a 4" length of flat bar stock from Home Depot as the flywheel stopper (just drill 2 holes that line up with the mounting holes for the clutch pressure plate. Then, on reassembly, I use a bathroom scale to torque the nut. I forget the exact numbers, but my method is to put a block of wood on the scale, rest wrench handle on the wood, and then pull up on the scale. I then read the pressure I'm applying to the wrench from the scale readout. If I apply 150lbs of pressure at a point on the wrench that's exactly 2 feet from the center of the nut, then I know I have 150 * 2 = 300 ft-lb of torque.
This is a pretty simple method, and I'd be amazed if it's news to everybody (especially based on some of the excellent advice I usually find in this forum), but I thought I'd post just in case.
#40
XBL** Ownicus
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Originally Posted by buttsjim
Hi everybody,
I'm usually just a lurker, but today I just can't resist posting (although I doubt the following will be news to most of you). Mazdatrix has a great socket welded to a piece of flat bar stock. At $36, it's cheaper than a 2-1/8" socket, and it appears unbreakable. I use a 4" length of flat bar stock from Home Depot as the flywheel stopper (just drill 2 holes that line up with the mounting holes for the clutch pressure plate. Then, on reassembly, I use a bathroom scale to torque the nut. I forget the exact numbers, but my method is to put a block of wood on the scale, rest wrench handle on the wood, and then pull up on the scale. I then read the pressure I'm applying to the wrench from the scale readout. If I apply 150lbs of pressure at a point on the wrench that's exactly 2 feet from the center of the nut, then I know I have 150 * 2 = 300 ft-lb of torque.
This is a pretty simple method, and I'd be amazed if it's news to everybody (especially based on some of the excellent advice I usually find in this forum), but I thought I'd post just in case.
I'm usually just a lurker, but today I just can't resist posting (although I doubt the following will be news to most of you). Mazdatrix has a great socket welded to a piece of flat bar stock. At $36, it's cheaper than a 2-1/8" socket, and it appears unbreakable. I use a 4" length of flat bar stock from Home Depot as the flywheel stopper (just drill 2 holes that line up with the mounting holes for the clutch pressure plate. Then, on reassembly, I use a bathroom scale to torque the nut. I forget the exact numbers, but my method is to put a block of wood on the scale, rest wrench handle on the wood, and then pull up on the scale. I then read the pressure I'm applying to the wrench from the scale readout. If I apply 150lbs of pressure at a point on the wrench that's exactly 2 feet from the center of the nut, then I know I have 150 * 2 = 300 ft-lb of torque.
This is a pretty simple method, and I'd be amazed if it's news to everybody (especially based on some of the excellent advice I usually find in this forum), but I thought I'd post just in case.