if I were to get a radiator cap from autozone juss for now what would be a good pressure limit to buy?

 

Anyone?

 

Whoah!

 

whoah what?

 

Im asking again........can anyone tell me

 

ok ok Im REALLY sorry for posting so much, but I bought a 13lbs radiator cap and it seems to be working so far but I remember reading one of you said that if the car was on for 10 minutes and I turned it off and I could turn the fan clutch easily then it was messed up right? Well it was really easy, I could turn it with one finger....should I start to look for an e-fan to buy? or should I replace the fan clutch?

 

can I use tap water to flush my rad?

 

I have and it was fine. With the flush and fill kit I used you actually hook up a garden hose.

 

The cheaper caps you would buy from there should be a standard pressure cap. You shouldn't have an option of what pressure the cap is if you ask the store clerk for a cap for your year and model of RX7. they should just hand you one that is aoe replacement. So basically, just get whatever stock is.

 

Ok thanks......and now the new question.....Ok I was driving to work today after I bought the new radiator cap and the car was running fine, even in bumper to bumper conditions(middle school got out) the car didnt heat up at all.....so my question now is.....on the way back from work I gave it a little bit more gas to test it, there was no bumper to bumper traffic but yet the car heated up......so Im guessing its not the cap, nor the thermostat....what could it be? Im really stumped now because I thought the car heats up more when stopped more then when runnin with wind hittin the radiator to cool the water n ****.



PS: By more gas I mean I was shifting at 4k....which isnt so bad I think

 

Have you checked your coolant level? Is your coolant buzzer working? Also check the waterpump.

 

No my coolant level doesnt work.....sadly enough alot of electrical things dont work on my car. I wish like Mazda would do **** like that like if I took it to them if they could get every electrical in the interior put in(new) and ground up the whole engine again.....well maybe not Mazda but juss someone out there did that, I'd pay for that....it would be good to have all of the car rewired to factory specs...but back to the subject....what are some things I could check for to see if the waterpump is still working?

 

have you checked your mechanical fan yet to see if its locking up?????????????????????

 

Thats what I was asking but no one answered.....if it's hard to turn then its good and if its easy to turn then its bad.....is that right or is it vice versa?


PS: what are the changes of an OEM thermostat ******* up in less than 6 months? ( car has never heated up or anythin until now ever since I put on the thermostat)

 

Just check your coolant level first to see if you have enough coolant in there. Since your buzzer doesnt work it wont tell you if you are low on coolant. You could have overheated because you have a leak somewhere and you are losing coolant over time. Make sure the system is depressurized first before taking off the pressure cap.

 

How do I depressurize it? I noticed that with my old cap when I would take it off nothing would happen but with this one when I start to unscrew it a bunch of air like goes in the OFT, I dont think thats normal is it...

 

Well before you had a faulty radiator cap (pressure cap). Just let the car sit until there is no more pressure in the upper rad hose. Just squeeze it and see if it's firm. It is supposed to be be hissing if you try to remove it while it is pressurized. That's why it says do not remove when hot because if it was working correctly and you opened it you would have some really bad burns all over from hot coolant.

 

if it is good it will be hard to turn when it is warmed up.

 

The OEM is about 14 psi.
Discount parts should be last resort when it comes to radiator cap and thermostat.
They're OK but you shouldn't use them for extended periods.
There are some parts at discount stores that just royaly sucks. Quality control doesn't exist on some parts.

 

Did you have the cooling system checked? It could be plugged and radiators are cheap for OEM ones.
If you do not have the underpan and upper shrouds, the air that's supposed to be drawn THROUGH the radiator is flowing around it causing overheating at high speeds. The underpan helps tremendously. If you're not loosing coolant , that's a good sign. If you don't see bubbles or a geiser when you start the engine with the cap off, that's a REALLY good sign. Coolant leaks can come at all sorts of places and with an old car, you SHOULD change your hoses since it will cause a leak at the MOST inopportune time and cause over heating which will surely cause engine damage.
The heater hoses are most prone due to it sitting below the oil filter and oil will cause rubber to deteriorate.
The clutch fan will have some resistance when it is working. When not, it will just turn freely. Whatever you do, don't buy an electric fan when you have cooling problems because nothing out there will cool a rotary engine better than a stock fan.
Remember, these cooling system was designed for all sorts of temperatures. Not just mid 80- 90 degree weather.

 

ok.....when I start my car I see bubbles....so that mean I have air in the system....right? And on my way home from school I noticed that even if I floor it, as long as I shift at 3k it doesnt over heat bbut even slightly pressing the gas, if it goes up to 4k or over it starts to heat up...is that cause of the clutch fan?

 

Ok......problem is FIXED.....I sat down and started thinking on why it heats at high revs and not at low revs....and then I talked to my uncle who has 15+ years of auto mechanic work under his belt and we came to a conclusion of the simplest problem there was.....I never noticed this and Im ready to take ALL the flaming that you guys throw out at me........the problem was that the belt that spins the water pump was slipping.....I never noticed because at low RPMs when Id be looking under the hood the water pump would spin but at high RPMs when i was drivin it would slip....so we tightened it and took the car for a test drive at 5500 RPM and it drove like a beauty....again all of you are welcomed to flame me all you want and I will take it like a man.....I learned a lesson and that was to never skip the basics and never make a small problem a big one......again Im sorry and once the flaming is done Im sure a mod would close this thread it. Last but not least thank all of you that gave me input on what the problem might have been. Next I might buy that nifty looking radiator aluminum cover cause its functional and looks noice!.....

 

i'm having a hard time believing what i'm reading here. your not focusing on the problem. you want to fix the over heating problem ?? it's simple replace the radiator !!! you've checked and done everything else but,,, the radiator. face it,
bite the bullet and get another radiator i've been saying this all along. it doesn't matter if the radiator looks good, clean and all that mine was fine looking but was the problem. i was looking at $230.00 dollors for a new radiator or $ 45.00 dollors for a used radiator. I went the used radiator and paid for a warranty so if the used radiator is some how not good i could exchange it for another. don't stress the fan clutch thats peanuts. my fan clutch isn't in new condition and by some unknown power if a radiator doesn't solve the over heating problem then look into another fan/clutch but radiator first !! oh,,btw done of your hoses are 'kinked' are they ?? it would be a good thing to get the coolant level sensor to work also. and for that matter all the sensors to work would be a good thing.
IMO. you've spent too much time on this problem without making head way or positive results. i know i'm tired so you've got to be pulling out your hair on this,
maybe..... Lol. take your time and make sure everything goes back together correct. i live in southern california, 80 degrees, my fan clutch isn't in perfect condition and with the A/C on high, in traffic my stock temp. guage does not go over 1/4. i bought a new water pump, thermostat, presure cap 13lbs. flushed the living **** out of the entire cooling/engine system and the engine still over heated, i replaced the radiator and now i can drive the car anywhere at any speed. it was real important to get a grip on the over heating thing here in so. cal.
so today it goes to see if it passes cal. smog. i'm hoping you consider these words
because they are all true facts. you'll get it, i'm positive of it......


well thats good news. and none of us, maybe one person said belt slipping.
now drive it like you stole it....Lol right- on uncle......

 

he fixed it, yay, he fixed it yay............I need a beer......

 

Heh I dont mind anyone not telling me it or anything but Im juss glad the problem is fixed....and thanks Mark for the post about the radiator.....you are right....I should havethought of that above all else....