Flooding Symptoms after Driving long
#1
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Flooding Symptoms after Driving long
If I drive my car for a few minutes, it will start back up, 10, 20, 25 minutes? Starts right back up. If I drive across town, and get the temperature up to 1/2, if I turn the car off, it won't turn back over for at least 20 minutes if I'm lucky.
I didn't notice this happen last year, this seems to be a recent thing. It's almost like its flooded, but if I try any unflooding procedure it doesn't help, I just have to wait for it to cool down?
Also, between 3.5k-4k rpm I lose alot of power until I get to 4k, and then it's like a turbo finally spooling up, but I drive an NA. Insight from the rotary gods?
I didn't notice this happen last year, this seems to be a recent thing. It's almost like its flooded, but if I try any unflooding procedure it doesn't help, I just have to wait for it to cool down?
Also, between 3.5k-4k rpm I lose alot of power until I get to 4k, and then it's like a turbo finally spooling up, but I drive an NA. Insight from the rotary gods?
#2
Got Boost?
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If the factory temp gauge is getting to the halfway point it's too hot. The factory temp gauge sucks. I'm not sure about trying to start the car after its overheated, but I'd venture a guess that the ECU won't let you start if you're overheated. Seems like you should be trouble shooting an overheating issue rather than a flooding issue. http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/cooling.htm should get you started there.
As for the brief power loss, could be 3800rpm hesitation which can usually be fixed by servicing the factory grounding points. http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm should help you with that.
AaronCake's site is a wealth of good information. So is the FAQ and Archives in this section.
As for the brief power loss, could be 3800rpm hesitation which can usually be fixed by servicing the factory grounding points. http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm should help you with that.
AaronCake's site is a wealth of good information. So is the FAQ and Archives in this section.
#3
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Bumping this thread. Weather was relatively decent today, temperature gauge didn't read past 1/4 or 1/3, but it would still feel like it was flooded, after having it at operating temp and driving it for about 20 minutes, I would crank, it would fire up, but as soon as I gave it any gas it would die, it sounds like it may be my fuel pump, but I am not 100% sure
Would it be possible that one of my injectors is getting stuck open and giving fuel to the rotors while it's sitting, flooding it bad enough? It's weird, when I do unflooding procedures, it does not fix the problem, and if I have my IAC plugged in, it almost never starts.
Would it be possible that one of my injectors is getting stuck open and giving fuel to the rotors while it's sitting, flooding it bad enough? It's weird, when I do unflooding procedures, it does not fix the problem, and if I have my IAC plugged in, it almost never starts.
#6
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It's connected, however, it is very dirty, and I'll have to check tomorrow if the connections are corroding, if so, I guess I'll grab a replacement
#7
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Alrighty, I did check to see if it was disconnected, and one of the wires was not as forward as it should have been, and I did try to remedy that, however it will be another day or so before I can get it to fully connect.
Another bit of info tho, tonight was splendid for driving, probably 58 degrees, driving on the highway, temp gauge reading about 1/4th and less at times, I stop at Walmart for some Gatorade and snack goodies, and I go out into the parking lot, get in, start, hey, cool, but then, it idles like crap and dies, it does this more frequently when it's hot, but it didn't do it when I stopped at my moms house before I went to walmart, which were more or less about 20 minutes in both directions, more than enough time to get to op. temp.
And when it does finally start it sounds like it's missing, it will sound like it's blowing a raspberry for a few seconds then return to what sounds like normal fuel flow?
I'd definitely like to get this figured out, I'll check the plugs and replace the fuel filter for starters just probably, because.
Another bit of info tho, tonight was splendid for driving, probably 58 degrees, driving on the highway, temp gauge reading about 1/4th and less at times, I stop at Walmart for some Gatorade and snack goodies, and I go out into the parking lot, get in, start, hey, cool, but then, it idles like crap and dies, it does this more frequently when it's hot, but it didn't do it when I stopped at my moms house before I went to walmart, which were more or less about 20 minutes in both directions, more than enough time to get to op. temp.
And when it does finally start it sounds like it's missing, it will sound like it's blowing a raspberry for a few seconds then return to what sounds like normal fuel flow?
I'd definitely like to get this figured out, I'll check the plugs and replace the fuel filter for starters just probably, because.
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#8
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check your AFM plug. on my 86, it was under the airbox. my car had a similar problem to this and when it finally wouldn't start at all I started going through things. my afm was filled with crud and the connectors were real loose and worn. cleaned it, electrical taped the connector so it would stay together and it started right up. my car is stock btw. now I just need to fix my leaky injector. that might be something to check too. when I turn my car off and try to start it within 5-10 minutes, it floods sometimes (maybe like 25% of the times) but de flooding procedures cure that ok. I just pull the fuse and crank then replace and starts fine. I'm assuming the pressure in the fuel line makes it leak because it starts fine after 30 minute intervals like yours. something to check anyway.
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Alright, went on a long drive, about 200 mile round trip, on the highway the car is fine, but now it dies a lot in city traffic, but starts back up almost immediately, fuel pump/filter? Shall replace tomorrow, will also be cleaning my air filter
#10
Vintage sportcars
I had a similiar issue, random stalling while driving and then flooded.
Compression was excellent so thats not the problem.
I cleaned the TPS connectors real good (removing of the pins from the socket and cleaned them with 240 grid)
Putting back together and a shot of WD-40 to prevent corrosion will do the trick.
I also noticed an slightly improved engine smoothness after pulling the fuses and replacing them with new ones.
AFM connector is a good idea too, checking the remaining grounds also.
If that doesnt help, injector cleaning fluid into the tank and going for a fast ride.
Maybe injectors not flowing/closing well, they can be cleaned. I would love to send mine out for cleaning but most of the real injectors specialists dont accept oversea orders...
Steven
Compression was excellent so thats not the problem.
I cleaned the TPS connectors real good (removing of the pins from the socket and cleaned them with 240 grid)
Putting back together and a shot of WD-40 to prevent corrosion will do the trick.
I also noticed an slightly improved engine smoothness after pulling the fuses and replacing them with new ones.
AFM connector is a good idea too, checking the remaining grounds also.
If that doesnt help, injector cleaning fluid into the tank and going for a fast ride.
Maybe injectors not flowing/closing well, they can be cleaned. I would love to send mine out for cleaning but most of the real injectors specialists dont accept oversea orders...
Steven
#12
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Sounds like you have all the crap symptoms my 87 has. My thermowax was jacked completely, had to get a new one, and an o-ring in the engine went bad so it was consuming coolant and took forever to start up after longer drives. Might be time for a re-build.
#13
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My coolant level hasn't changed, I have a small leak at the top of my radiator, but it doesn't flow or run. And the engine has about 33k on it.
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