13Beast REW

After driving for about 5 miles or so the turn signals in my 86NA will start to flash irradically on their own. The green lights in the gauge cluster flash as well as the actuall turn signals in the front and rear of the vehicle. If I set the turn signal switch to flash either left or right, the pulses will become regular but I haven't confirmed if only the signals on the side indicated by the switch are flashing or if both sides are still flashing.

It seems as though the irregular pulsing attempts to regulate with greater electrical loads on the car. For example, if I have the heat all the way up and I let off of the accelerator and press the brake, the pulsing will usually stop. If I then turn the fans down, the lights will begin to flash again. Also if I'm sitting at a red light with the clutch in and brake pressed and then also hit the accelerator to bring the engine speed up, the pulsing will start again.

What makes the situation even more interesting is that the pulsing will continue even after I park the car and remove the key. The only way I've been able to explain that happening is a capacitor somewhere maintaing a charge until the pulsing drains that charge.

Based off of the threads I've read after searching it seems as though it would be the turn signal/hazard light circuit board. I'm a little suspicious though since I also dont trust the alternator on this car. The stock voltage meter never reads above 12 volts but will often drop to 10 volts and the charge light will come on if I press the brake. I'm replacing the alternator and battery today even though the battery in the car now is still new (less than 2 months old) I'll be looking for one with higher cranking amps.

Although it is also symptomatic of a bad alternator not charging the battery, I'm suspicious of the battery mainly because the car floods often when trying to start and the voltage quickly drops to 10 volts.

So though all this does anyone think that I should go ahead and replace the turn signal/hazard ciruit or continue to troubleshoot the alternator/battery issue before going there?

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like a wiring nightmare.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

buy a new car - lol
thats wierd...trying tossing in another flasher

BlueSteel

sounds like the alarm may be partially setting off... but im not sure. (alarm= headlights/flashers alternating with horn)

Icemark

headlights don't flash with the alarm going off

Icemark

No. You need to fix the electrical charging system before going any further. The car must operate at, at least 12.5 volts at all times. Any time that you are under that, all sorts of strange problems will happen. With the engine running you should be at 13.5 volts. If you are not, then your alternator is not even working.

As far as the indicators and flashers:
Two things control the turn signal circuit, the security system and the hazard light switch. The low voltage could be setting off the alarm, but unless your horn is unplugged; the horn would also be going off.

So that points to a bad wiper/hazard switch, or the electrical wiring from the switch to the CPU. You fail to mention what year the car is, so it is harder to tell you what to test, but if by chance you do have S4 (86-88) the hazard symbol at the hazard light switch should also be flashing if it is related to the switch itself. Of course that would not apply if you have a S5 or have replaced the wiper/hazard light switch with a differnt year.

Have there been any wiring or electrical parts changed or added since this problem started???

BlueSteel

really? mine do...

13Beast REW

That has seemed pretty logical to me since I've never known any car to run at exactly 12 volts or less. Autozone swears up and down that the alternator is fine and the car also keeps running if I remove the battery after starting it. As I stated though I had planned to replace it regardless.


I do have an issue with the horn not working when pressing the buttons. I've tested the actuall horn itself by connecting it directly to a 12 volt power source and it works. The wire that connects to the horn on the actual car never shown any voltage when checking it with a voltmeter. There are no visible wires disconnected when looking around the steering column but I have yet to take it apart to give it a good inspection.


I mentioned in my first post that it is an 86 NA.

To my knowledge everything on the inside of the car is original.

Not really. When I bought the car it didnt even run. I've only just recently got it running and driving. Since I bought it the parts I've replaced really shouldnt have any affect on the lights in the car. I've replace the UIM, BAC, air bypass solenoid valve, all solenoids, vacuum hoses, the battery, both power mirrors, the door locks, and all damaged or missing fuses.

Icemark

Well then the next step I would take, is to see if unplugging the wiper switch, makes the problem go away. It is does not, then plug it back in, and then unplug the factory alarm.

If neither solves the problem, then look at the CPU in the drivers kick panel. Make sure there are no bare or damaged wires going into either of the bottom plugs.

13Beast REW

Just now reading your reply so I haven't looked at the computer yet. Just figured I'd point out that I replaced the alternator and batter and have experienced no change in voltage and the signals blinking seems to have stopped, however I developed a new problem with the coolant buzzer. At first I thought it was electrical because the buzzer stops when I hit the breaks but after letting off it starts back up again. After driving for a while, I've notice the overflow tank is filling but coolant isnt being drawn back into the cooling system so I'll be troubleshooting that first before resuming messing with the electical issues.