Jdm_alex13b

ok so im new to the forums and to the RX-7's i recently picked up my first one a month ago and the only problem im having is the electrical. all the guages in the cluster work but not the lighting.
91 s5 red on gray interior

the headights turn on but dont go up or down unless i use a tester and jump the power. motors work and theres signal but something else is missing and its killing me not being able to fix it.

all upper console lights do not work.

all in all the body is somewhat straight. been repainted and has its shares of dings and dents i would rate it a 6/10

engine runs good but not perfect i would rate it a 8/10

interior needs a lot of work and i mean alot. passenger seat is done. someone dropped oil on it along w ith the back seat. gutted, no interior. 0/10

i got the car for 1700 so i think i did good someone help me please or guide me in the right direction thank you

clokker

iTrader: (2)

You probably have a bad light switch, which is relatively common.
Satch will be alone shortly to dazzle you with his knowledge about every single wire in the RX...but I'd bet on a bad switch.
I have one (the switch, not the dazzling knowledge) if you need it.

natobait

These issues aren't common, are they?

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Welcome to FC world. My girlfriends car has engine harness issues. My suggestion would be to ask Rotary Related? He makes all sorts of new harnesses for these cars and might be able to point you in the right direction. http://www.rotaryrelated.com/

Other than that, all I can say is that I hate electrical stuff too.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, but yes, they are.
The wiper switch is the other "most likely to fail" part.

Mazdatrix carries the switches new...headlight is $360, wiper is $700.
There are many threads here about repairing the switches, I've never tried but apparently it can be done.
There are more extreme solutions but they're not for the fainthearted.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

+1 Sounds like Headlight switch.

But re: console lights - you mean the idiot lights at the top center of the dashboard? Because that is also known to have cold solder issues. Sometimes you can resolder all the pins for the plug on the board, sometimes it takes more than that. Does the clock work?

If you don't have an FSM (factory service manual), one of the links should take you to it and wiring diagrams.

edit: Read the stickies at the top...the reason for headlight switch issues is sometimes bad contacts at the plugs and bulb sockets of the lights. Make sure these are clean and free of corrosion and gunk, then grease, preferably with dielectric grease (i.e. tune up grease).

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Red/Blue wire in the headlight harness should have voltage when the headlight switch is turned to the second position. When the lights are not on then the Red/Yellow wire in this harness would have voltage on it. Make sure the 30 amp Head fuse in the Engine fuse box is good along w/the 30 amp Retractor fuse.

Jdm_alex13b

your talking about the whole switch that controls the headlights, flip up and what looks like a vent switch? i noticed that 1 or 2 wires look burnt like they short circuited or something. but for real theyre 700? holy crap

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Yup.
You are semi-fortunate however.
The harness for the lights/turnsignals plugs into the body harness just down in the footwell, so it's easily removed and repaired (if necessary).
The switches are available used (like I said, I have one) for somewhat less than the $700.
Make sure you get a S5 switch...the S4 will plug right in but the pinout is different.

TheGloriousTachikoma

They were very proprietary, integrated mechanisms. These units had the relays integrated in them, and the relays were rated at juuuust enough current to operate the motors. And they were cold soldered. And they weren't sealed. Clokker fixed his by integrating Nissan stalks into his RX's steering column. pele here on the forums has a side business of replacing the relays in these and then potting them. He might not be taking orders right now though, best bet is to check.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I used a Mazda 6 combo switch although I did flirt with Nissan switches as well.

37smitty

I don't want to hijack but I am having a very similar problem. The lights popped up but didn't come on and wouldn't go back down. I traced it back to the switch. I replaced it with a used one I had. The lights went up and down and came on but then I had no brake lights,directionals or running lights. I traced that and found I have no power to my top row of fuses. I jumped power to that row and everything worked. I have not figured out where the open is yet. The wiring diagram shows a short straight line from the main fuse under the hood ( I checked that and will double check it)to the top row of fuses in the kick panel. Is there anything in that path a relay or anything ? all of this worked before I started poking around to fix the headlights.
Dave

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fuses you speak of are powered by the 60 amp BTN fuse in the Engine fuse box and not the Main fuse.

37smitty

Sorry in my mind all of those fuses under the hood are main fuses. Is it a straight shot from the BTN fuse to the fuses in the kick panel. Is that wire W/R ? thats what it shows going up to the switch.
Dave

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yes.

37smitty

I'll replace the BTN fuse tomorrow. I have had one or two times where a fuse was blown but something was touching so the meter would show it as good but it couldn't carry any current.
Dave

13B Etc

iTrader: (2)

I have pre-repaired switches for sale, or can repair yours. Please PM me for more information.

37smitty

I feel like such an idiot. I had my BTN fuse in the spare slot. Moved that and most of my problems went away. I am left with a rapid flash on the left directional. Front and rear bulbs are flashing as well as the indicator on the dash. If I remove a bulb it flashes even faster. I also have a constant 1.5 amp draw It passes through the BTN fuse. That problem cleared with the fuse in the wrong slot LOL. Now it's back and I need to deal with it. I have not really looked into this yet and my meter seems to be on strike today.
Dave

satch

iTrader: (1)

A rapid flash usually means a bad bulb (or a good bulb but poor contact due to rust in the bulb socket housing perhaps). The BTN fuse provides "constant" voltage to certain fuses so there is going to be some level of draw. If you believe this is too much then pull one of the fuses such as the Illumination fuse and then see if the draw remained the same or not. Do this for each of the fuses in the same row to perhaps identify the draw.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Or mismatched bulbs.
Make sure the front and rear lefthand bulbs are the same wattage.