sTaLa

The guy who sold me my 7 told me it could drown the engine if I ran it for a few seconds; like to get it out of the garage or to move it for a few meters.

But it sounds really strange to me. I mean, these engines run with injectors, as soon as the air/fuel mix is sent, it's burned. Isn't it?

I'm quite uncertain because the sellor is passionnate by rotary engines, so I'm doubtful.

What do you think about it?

Icemark

I think you mean flooded, not drowned.

And a rotary engine is easy to flood if you have low compression, or leaking injectors.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

Depends, my turbo I let warm up fully even if I'm just moving it. My vert I do it all the time. From what I understand, and someone will set either or both of us straight, these cars are prone to flooding and it's not a good idea to start it and then turn it off. Injectors can leak from what I hear. If he has had problems, and alot of people on here do, with leaky injectors or whatever causes this problem I would go along with the suggestion untill it's fixed or someone else with more knowledge on here tells us otherwise.

Blowtus

he's correct. if you're going to start it, leave it on for a few minutes.

buttsjim

Mine used to flood without fail when I did that. I think that's true for all the 2nd generations, once they reach middle age, mileage-wise.

I say mine "used to" because I've got a new rebuild, and professionally cleaned injectors, so theoretically, it shouldn't flood anymore. I just don't have the guts to try it and see.

Syonyk

It's a combination of the way a rotary works (excessive fuel prevents compression from building up, unlike a piston engine (or at least not as severely on a piston engine)). Also, it's easy to soak the spark plugs on a rotary, because a pool of gas will be wiped across them. It's VERY difficult to get spark plugs wet on a boinger.

Also, the ECU's cold start method seems to be "Dump fuel until the engine almost stalls, reduce slightly, repeat." It runs REALLY rich at startup, so there's a lot of excess fuel floating around.

-=Russ=-

jono20

what if you have a fuel pump kill switch like I do. I jsut turn off the fuel pumpo and let it stall itself when I turn it off. would that help at all?

BlaCkPlaGUE

.

buttsjim

Yes, that helps a lot, because it relieves the pressure in your fuel lines so that no fuel is forced through the leaking injectors.

I installed a kill switch when I had my flooding problem, and I still use it now that I have everything corrected. It's a pain to have to unflood the motor, so I just eliminate the possibility of having to do it. Besides, the switch is a cheap anti-theft device.

JamesWade2002

I have a rebuilt engine and cleaned injectors, My car has never flooded since it was rebuilt. Flooding is NOT a rotary engine thing, producing massive oil temps and having a retardedly slow flame front, now those are rotary things.

Blowtus

flooding isn't a rotary engine thing, it's just that old rotaries are the only cars (in recent times, afaik) on the planet that suffer from flooding under normal conditions... that about it James?

sTaLa

Will using a fuel pump kill switch hurt the engine in any way if it's used every time to turn the engine off?

And is it a long job to install one?

buttsjim

I don't think it would hurt the engine, but I'd prefer to let someone more knowledgeable address that question. My switch didn't take long to install.

But, if you're not having flooding problems, you don't really need the fuel cut switch. Your original question related to starting the car, and then shutting it off immediately--that will likely flood the engine, since the seller warned you about the possibility. Just avoid those short starts (let the car run for 3 - 5 minutes) and you'll avoid the flooding problem altogether.

JamesWade2002

I had a friend who's father owned a 440ci Mopar BB V8 powered Dodge Daytona tube chassis drag car, he said because the plugs were way cold and the cam was huge (the car made power to 9100 rpm, if it was needed) that it would always die and fowl plugs when it was cold and would NOT like EVER restart without being cleaned first. he said the car was VERY hard to keep running when it was cold. It was also very radical too.

Blowtus

rofl! you're talking about a drag car, and you're talking about fouling plugs, not flooding!

jono20

I dont see any reason why it would be bad for the engine (the kill switch that is).

it c an take as little as 60 seconds to install... longer if you ahev some super neato place to mount a switch

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

Fouled or wet plugs is often part of why the rotary won't start when you flood it.

Blowtus

dunno about often, but fouled / wet plugs would happen *after* the flooding
the point that the rotary engine is the only engine in at all common usage in a car, with flooding problems, still stands...

theloudroom

Isn't the proper way to clear a flood, flooring the gas while cranking?
It's worked for me.

REnoob

after removing the fuse, yes

Blowtus

don't have to remove the fuse unless it's badly flooded, usually. yes, even on s4's