Fender rolling
10-31-05, 11:47 PM
#4
i am legendary
There's your problem.
You sure you know where you're rubbing? Stock offset is 40, between being 5mm more IN and lowered an inch, I'd bet you're rubbing on the spring or shock perch or something similar.
You sure you know where you're rubbing? Stock offset is 40, between being 5mm more IN and lowered an inch, I'd bet you're rubbing on the spring or shock perch or something similar.
11-01-05, 12:06 AM
#5
Originally Posted by dDuB
There's your problem.
You sure you know where you're rubbing? Stock offset is 40, between being 5mm more IN and lowered an inch, I'd bet you're rubbing on the spring or shock perch or something similar.
You sure you know where you're rubbing? Stock offset is 40, between being 5mm more IN and lowered an inch, I'd bet you're rubbing on the spring or shock perch or something similar.
I did the install work on the car, he's rubbing on the fender on just the drivers side when turning to the right. When the wheels are pointed straight it can take bumps no problem, but when it's turned to the right and the tire is sticking out past the fender at an angle, that's where the problem develops.
11-01-05, 12:10 AM
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh hey, evil eagle, didn't should have guessed you were on this board too. Hope you don't take any offense to this thread, just seeing what other people have noticed. Thanks for the install.
Trending Topics
11-01-05, 12:13 AM
#8
i am legendary
Interesting. That's kind of strange to me I guess. I have 225's with ground control coilovers and RB lowering strut mounts slammed all the way down, and I don't rub on full turn or hard cornering 
Guess I'm lucky heh. Also helps that I have 16's, though. The 17's your running and probably helping this.
Guess I'm lucky heh. Also helps that I have 16's, though. The 17's your running and probably helping this.
11-01-05, 12:57 AM
#9
Yeah, that's weird because I've got 18's running 225/35/18 rubber and B&G springs (1.5" drop) and Tokico HP struts and I would *barely* rub on the springs before I installed 5mm spacers...
Are you running stock struts or something? (lots of compression/rebound?)
Are you running stock struts or something? (lots of compression/rebound?)
11-01-05, 12:31 PM
#12
Anyone here have their fenders rolled? I only have 215/45R17s and am having some rubbing
I had to "roll" the lip over on my front fenders under to avoid rubbing on my 225/50-16 Yok A520 on +30 7.5" rims with JIC FLT A2 coilovers.
All tires will have different actual widths sidewall to sidewall that affect clearance as well as rim width and offset affecting it and finally the amount of negative camber and camber gain from aftermarket coilover mounting points can affect whether the tires rub the fender.
It was fairly easy to do and impossible to tell it had been done without sticking your hand in the fender and feeling for the lip.
Remove the wheel and set the car SECURELY on a jackstand in addition to the jack. Then score the paint down to the factory grey etching primer with a razor blade or mat knife on the lip that is 90 deg to the outside of the fender- just inside of the visible area.
Scoring the paint will stop the cracks made when bending the lip up from spreading into the visible area of the fender.
Next, lay on your back positioning your head and shoulders in the wheel arch with SAFETY glasses on (A bunch of dirt is about to be beat off of your fender) and lay a block of wood on the lip ~45 deg to it and GENTLY hit the block with a light body hammer all along the upper fender length back and forth. You are doing this to the uppermost ~24" of the fender arch only. Continue GENTLY massaging the sheetmetal along this length and you will see the metal slowly begin to fold over.
Continue this untill the top ~18" of the fender lip are folded under completely flat with the outer fender contour and the remainder is a gentle arc between the original lips position and the folded over section.
This should take ~1/2 hr a fender.
Clean the area well and apply your touch up paint to the inside area you bent back to stop rust. Put the wheels back on, take a shower to get the crud out of your hair and go for a test drive on a windy bumpy road.
Here are pics of my car with the lip rolled over- I hope you can't tell it was done
I had to "roll" the lip over on my front fenders under to avoid rubbing on my 225/50-16 Yok A520 on +30 7.5" rims with JIC FLT A2 coilovers.
All tires will have different actual widths sidewall to sidewall that affect clearance as well as rim width and offset affecting it and finally the amount of negative camber and camber gain from aftermarket coilover mounting points can affect whether the tires rub the fender.
It was fairly easy to do and impossible to tell it had been done without sticking your hand in the fender and feeling for the lip.
Remove the wheel and set the car SECURELY on a jackstand in addition to the jack. Then score the paint down to the factory grey etching primer with a razor blade or mat knife on the lip that is 90 deg to the outside of the fender- just inside of the visible area.
Scoring the paint will stop the cracks made when bending the lip up from spreading into the visible area of the fender.
Next, lay on your back positioning your head and shoulders in the wheel arch with SAFETY glasses on (A bunch of dirt is about to be beat off of your fender) and lay a block of wood on the lip ~45 deg to it and GENTLY hit the block with a light body hammer all along the upper fender length back and forth. You are doing this to the uppermost ~24" of the fender arch only. Continue GENTLY massaging the sheetmetal along this length and you will see the metal slowly begin to fold over.
Continue this untill the top ~18" of the fender lip are folded under completely flat with the outer fender contour and the remainder is a gentle arc between the original lips position and the folded over section.
This should take ~1/2 hr a fender.
Clean the area well and apply your touch up paint to the inside area you bent back to stop rust. Put the wheels back on, take a shower to get the crud out of your hair and go for a test drive on a windy bumpy road.
Here are pics of my car with the lip rolled over- I hope you can't tell it was done
11-01-05, 12:37 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Furious D
Oh hey, evil eagle, didn't should have guessed you were on this board too. Hope you don't take any offense to this thread, just seeing what other people have noticed. Thanks for the install.
Haha, no worries. Like I said, my car did the same thing. BLUE TII is describing pretty much exactly what I did to correct the problem as well. I was running 225/45/17 on a +25 17x8 wheel and rubbed the drivers side fender on hard right turns.
11-01-05, 12:42 PM
#14
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
With 215's and stock offsets..... you shouldn't be rubbing, even if you put an 8 inch wheel up front....
Your problem is CAMBER.....
BEFORE YOU GO ROLLING YOUR FENDERS and cracking the paint and ending up with rust holes next spring....
rolling the fenders may or may not solve the rubbing problem, but it will not solve your camber issues.....
you have a couple options... Adjustable camber plates, or those cam bolts that you install in the top strut bolt hole on the spindle.
The plates are the BEST option because it moves the whole unit, strut and wheel... the bolts can actually cause the spring to rub the tire because it moves the WHEEL relative to the strut.. still, you should have some room if you are running 215/45's
This is a problem i have noted with EVERY FC i have put on an alignment rack..... the drivers side camber is usually more positive than the passenger side... WHY... Dunno... I can think of three reasons.. Chassis twisting from 20 years of being flogged, Road Crown, or 100K miles with 1 person in the car offsetting the weight.
Your problem is CAMBER.....
BEFORE YOU GO ROLLING YOUR FENDERS and cracking the paint and ending up with rust holes next spring....
rolling the fenders may or may not solve the rubbing problem, but it will not solve your camber issues.....
you have a couple options... Adjustable camber plates, or those cam bolts that you install in the top strut bolt hole on the spindle.
The plates are the BEST option because it moves the whole unit, strut and wheel... the bolts can actually cause the spring to rub the tire because it moves the WHEEL relative to the strut.. still, you should have some room if you are running 215/45's
This is a problem i have noted with EVERY FC i have put on an alignment rack..... the drivers side camber is usually more positive than the passenger side... WHY... Dunno... I can think of three reasons.. Chassis twisting from 20 years of being flogged, Road Crown, or 100K miles with 1 person in the car offsetting the weight.
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 11-01-05 at 12:47 PM.
11-03-05, 09:37 AM
#21
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by Furious D
So if I want the alignment shop to adjust camber, I would need to by camber plates? I'm guessing the shop will have these?
Ummmm... Mot times, wht you'll find is die grinded holes in the top of the shock tower.....
I would suggest getting the cam bolts or a pair of camber plates BEFORE you take it to the allignment shop....
