FD Alternator Problem
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Has anyone had the problem with a 3rd gen alternator, that when the key is the ignition spot that the warning lights do not come on, like they should? Any suggestions?
I had the alternator checked out at Checkers and they told me that the voltage regulator and diodes are OK. Any the voltage output is OK, but they said the the lamp voltage (on) was suppose to be 9 volts, but it was putting out 11 volts (I have never heard about lamp voltage before), but the lamp voltage (off) was OK. If anyone can make any sense of this, it would be extremely helpful.
Thanks in advance
I had the alternator checked out at Checkers and they told me that the voltage regulator and diodes are OK. Any the voltage output is OK, but they said the the lamp voltage (on) was suppose to be 9 volts, but it was putting out 11 volts (I have never heard about lamp voltage before), but the lamp voltage (off) was OK. If anyone can make any sense of this, it would be extremely helpful.
Thanks in advance
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Originally Posted by Codigo4
Has anyone had the problem with a 3rd gen alternator, that when the key is the ignition spot that the warning lights do not come on, like they should? Any suggestions?
-Ted
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I think that tht's more of a cpu problem, the one that is located on the drivers sidekick. If your alternator were bad, all of your idiot lghts would be on all the time..
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To make sure the problem was with the alternator and not somthing else, I put my one 2nd gen alternator back in and the warning lights come on like they should, also I have tried reversing the two wires that plug into alternator to make sure I didn't mess up the wiring (no change).
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Originally Posted by RETed
I don't think the alternator (any alternator) has anything to do with the self-check function of the warning lights?
-Ted
-Ted
"You have to run 2 wires from the back of the alternator inside the cabin by
the ecu. Compare your old NA wiring harness and trace the wires that used
to be at the alternator back to the plug they ended at (one of the 2 large
orange ones inside the car). Now compare these pin positions with the
current harness. Cut whatever wires are presently there (theyre not doing
anything important) and splice in your 2 newly run wires. Be sure to cut
and insulate those old wires, so you're not backfeeding through some other
circuit. This keeps all your idiot lights from staying on all the
time (this is normally an indication of a failed alternator, and the car
thinks it has failed because the wiring was missing)."
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