FD alternator conversion and FD alt questions...
#76
Alcohol Fueled!
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This is turning into one big ing match. Truth here is, nobody knows why Santiago's car is acting up. As the same with the one I had. Its gotta be a fluke. Another wonderful wiring glitch that our FCs are notorious for.
Now quit dragging Silverrotor into this. ITs not his problem.
Now quit dragging Silverrotor into this. ITs not his problem.
#77
Moderator
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Only Santiago can make a thread last 3 pages and beyond. Fyi, these Pullies are from old school GM Pullies. I have said this clearly In every one of my PM's should anyone have asked. If It's so much of an Issue Santiago, I'll take It back and refund your money. I don't have the slightest bit of a worry or concern. Just pack It tight. Capeche?
#82
So my problem is just going to be FILED under electrical grimlen eh?
The only thing I can do is try tightening the **** out of the belts or something. :-/
Tony I will keep the alternator because it still works fine. I will report back if this ever gets a solution. For now I guess I will deal with this crap.
Thanks again for responding to your customers concerns.
Santiago
The only thing I can do is try tightening the **** out of the belts or something. :-/
Tony I will keep the alternator because it still works fine. I will report back if this ever gets a solution. For now I guess I will deal with this crap.
Thanks again for responding to your customers concerns.
Santiago
#83
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Originally posted by 1987RX7Guy
So my problem is just going to be FILED under electrical grimlen eh?
So my problem is just going to be FILED under electrical grimlen eh?
Why is a throttle blip such a big deal anyways? Your car from the factory was revving to ~3K on startup, and look how many miles it has lasted. Why is a manual blip to ~2k to wake up your alternator a problem? These are some sacrifices you have to make for a (TB) modified car.
Originally posted by Aaron Cake
When you start your car, it should idle up to 1500 anyway until it warms up.
When you start your car, it should idle up to 1500 anyway until it warms up.
At least this is what logical comparison tells me from everything I have learned about internal combustion engines. I don't believe the rotary to be any different at all, so unless someone would care to prove me wrong with evidence, I'll keep sustaining ~1500 when cold.
#84
Lets see my car idles just fine at 1k for around a minute and then drops below without stalling.
Like you said the gauge could be wrong. So could the tester but I don't care right now you guys didn't really even try. I was expecting to hear some good info on the alternator and all I get is your dog poo.
Like you said the gauge could be wrong. So could the tester but I don't care right now you guys didn't really even try. I was expecting to hear some good info on the alternator and all I get is your dog poo.
#85
Alcohol Fueled!
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All I can do
All I can offer in the way of comparison is to install my FD alternator on my 10th AE. But thats not going to happen till this weekend, got more important projects to finish.
The alternator was only on my 87 base, and it did the same thing. If it doesnt do it on my 10th AE, then we have an answer.
And once we have an answer, we can put this little thread to rest...
Sound fair?
Jarrett
The alternator was only on my 87 base, and it did the same thing. If it doesnt do it on my 10th AE, then we have an answer.
And once we have an answer, we can put this little thread to rest...
Sound fair?
Jarrett
#87
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You don't have enough powah to spin that big-*** alt properly, get an evil snail and all your problems will be fixed. (might as well toss a useless comment in, everyone else has)
#89
Ok-
Today after starting up the FC at school I noticed that after about 15-20 seconds it will now jump up to ~14v
The only thing that is different now is that today is cold but dry and kindof sunny.
Could there be some sort of "break-in" for the FD alt?
Maybe the temperature changes the voltage switch or something?
Today after starting up the FC at school I noticed that after about 15-20 seconds it will now jump up to ~14v
The only thing that is different now is that today is cold but dry and kindof sunny.
Could there be some sort of "break-in" for the FD alt?
Maybe the temperature changes the voltage switch or something?
#90
Moderator
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
Ok-
Today after starting up the FC at school I noticed that after about 15-20 seconds it will now jump up to ~14v
The only thing that is different now is that today is cold but dry and kindof sunny.
Could there be some sort of "break-in" for the FD alt?
Maybe the temperature changes the voltage switch or something?
Ok-
Today after starting up the FC at school I noticed that after about 15-20 seconds it will now jump up to ~14v
The only thing that is different now is that today is cold but dry and kindof sunny.
Could there be some sort of "break-in" for the FD alt?
Maybe the temperature changes the voltage switch or something?
Thanks alot man.
#91
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Originally posted by silverrotor
Your serious??? Tell me you are serious Santiago? After 4 pages of grilling my FD Alternator, an additional version of this thread, that resulted In a lock of It, contaminating my For Sell of FD Alternator Kits - you have come to the realization that you have a functional Alternator, the very same one I sent you???
Thanks alot man.
Your serious??? Tell me you are serious Santiago? After 4 pages of grilling my FD Alternator, an additional version of this thread, that resulted In a lock of It, contaminating my For Sell of FD Alternator Kits - you have come to the realization that you have a functional Alternator, the very same one I sent you???
Thanks alot man.
ROFL!!!! ROLF OMG
#92
Originally posted by silverrotor
Your serious??? Tell me you are serious Santiago? After 4 pages of grilling my FD Alternator, an additional version of this thread, that resulted In a lock of It, contaminating my For Sell of FD Alternator Kits - you have come to the realization that you have a functional Alternator, the very same one I sent you???
Thanks alot man.
Your serious??? Tell me you are serious Santiago? After 4 pages of grilling my FD Alternator, an additional version of this thread, that resulted In a lock of It, contaminating my For Sell of FD Alternator Kits - you have come to the realization that you have a functional Alternator, the very same one I sent you???
Thanks alot man.
I am deffinately buying another god damned volt gauge. This is pissing me off.
#93
Ok this is what I am going to do as my last bit of effort to fix this problem:
The only things that are not NEW or less than a month old are the alternator belts. I am going to go to autozone tommorow and buy two more and install them. How do you all feel about autozone's chepo sunpro volt gauges? I can just buy one of thos bitches and install it tommorow. I will RE-DO every wire, nut, washer, terminal, EVERYTHING. I will add another ground too if I have to but what else should I buy to make sure that 100% of everything is DONE THE RIGHT WAY on the car?
I have the following already: NEW-terminals, POS cable, neg cable, extra grounding, anti-corrosive pads for the terminals, wire from alternator to the battery.
The used stuff is only two things really- Battery which tested GOOD and the stock FC alternator cable.
I plan to do this from what I can remember right now- Undo all the cables from the battery to the starter, battery to ground, battery to the alt. The MAIN fuse cable will be undone and redone. I will clean my battery terminals and posts. Install NEW belts and tension them to ~1" of travel on the longest span. Instal a voltmeter from the parts store.
Is there anything else I am missing?
If the problem persists WHAT is left that could possibly cause this situation?
Santiago
The only things that are not NEW or less than a month old are the alternator belts. I am going to go to autozone tommorow and buy two more and install them. How do you all feel about autozone's chepo sunpro volt gauges? I can just buy one of thos bitches and install it tommorow. I will RE-DO every wire, nut, washer, terminal, EVERYTHING. I will add another ground too if I have to but what else should I buy to make sure that 100% of everything is DONE THE RIGHT WAY on the car?
I have the following already: NEW-terminals, POS cable, neg cable, extra grounding, anti-corrosive pads for the terminals, wire from alternator to the battery.
The used stuff is only two things really- Battery which tested GOOD and the stock FC alternator cable.
I plan to do this from what I can remember right now- Undo all the cables from the battery to the starter, battery to ground, battery to the alt. The MAIN fuse cable will be undone and redone. I will clean my battery terminals and posts. Install NEW belts and tension them to ~1" of travel on the longest span. Instal a voltmeter from the parts store.
Is there anything else I am missing?
If the problem persists WHAT is left that could possibly cause this situation?
Santiago
#97
Hey Tony do you still have any FD kits in stock?!? Im really interested in picking one or two up.
Ive heard alot of praise from people on these kits. And i would really like to place an order.
Ive heard alot of praise from people on these kits. And i would really like to place an order.
Last edited by Kuhrazy7; 10-16-03 at 02:39 PM.
#100
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
No one knows the answer to where the wire is located?
No one knows the answer to where the wire is located?
this is {laboriously} copied from the pdf for the 93 rx7
I don't own one so I have no idea where the actual wire is located.
I am harping on this circuit so much because a failure in it WILL cause EXACTLY what you are reporting.