warcritic

i need/i think i need to upgrade my FC alternator to a FD model in order to run my stereo.
is it wise to do so, or would i be risking the chance of blowing my ecu or some circuit boards in the process??
any help would be appreciated

Cosmo_TT

iTrader: (11)

nope its pretty simplejust get one and change your plug mine came with one

idsigloo

I recommend a FD alternator if your running an aftermarket stereo setup.

warcritic

thats waht i was wondering i should do, cuz im running almost 2000 watts if not more
this weekend i was talking to a buddys dad and he said to make sure it wouldnt be to powerful for my car and i figured rx forums would be the way to go to find out

Icemark

a FD alt will not be big enough for a 2000 watt stereo system.

FD alts are only around 100-120 amps

A 2000 watt stereo system (if it really is that much) can draw up to 150-160 amps

idsigloo

Would a capacitor assist with that?

Icemark

No, caps are simple to help momentary draws, like from a single big bass hit.

Remember though, that most amplifiers are rated at RMS power, however cheaper ones often rate for peak power (trying to make the seem bigger/better).

If the system really is a 2000 watt RMS system, it would need a 200 amp alternator to run the system and the car at night.

However if it just one of those lame peak power rated amps, you would only need around 135 amps to run the car at night, because in reality the amp only draws half of the rating at best.

idsigloo

I wouldn't run 2000 watt anyways, prolly break out your back glass.

warcritic

well no matter what the wattage it is, iv got 4 alpine type s, and one 1 farad cap, i cant run my stereo without my car dying...
so if i upgrade the alternator that'll put me to 130ish amp wise, so what else would i need to put add on in order to run the stereo and car

rotary downshift

wow this is all realy kinda strange ... i am pushing 1000 rms into one sub and then 200rms into my mids and highs .. and yes this is all rms .. rated at 12.5 ... not 14.4 ... and the lowest my battery goes is 13.8 while driving ... and yes .. my **** hits HARD .....like mentioned b 4 it has actualy shaken the hatch loose at the top near the roof line .. but as for power draw .. hmmm i dont knowq what the big deal is .. like yeah the volts fluctuate a bit but hell they do that when ppl hit the breaks lol ... i dunno .. upgrade the alt if u wish .. it wont hurt in any way .. but i dont see it being nessary ... even under hard driving and the system pumping .. my battery levle stays at a steady 13.9.... so withewr way u should be alright .. nehow good luck to you ..

Icemark

Most FD alts are rated at 100 amps max output.

There are a few that peak up to 120 amps, but they are not rated to do it long term.

Ohms law: wattage / voltage = amperage

So 1000 amps (half load for a 2000 watt system) / 12.6 volts (minimum voltage allowed before you are running on battery charge) = 80 amps

Engine running = 20-25 amps
Headlights and parking lights = 40+ amps

So,

System+engine+lights= 140+ amps

Alex6969

****, I needed the FD alt just to run everything at night.