so 1.2 oz to a gallon (like im running with MMO) shouldnt be bad at all then.

 

Ah, I thought that's what was normally premixed? Oh well, thanks for the catch

 

So from what it seems, if I'm going to pre-mix, running 87 octane will be my best bet since it shouldn't affect the octane rating much, if it all. The ratio is 100:1 if I remember right, which is 1 oz of pre-mix to 1 gallon of gas.

 

After a little more discussion, I was told there were certain chemicals that you could run through the oil system to clean it out, but they were a little pricey. Does anyone know anything about this? Also, any suggestions for a pre-mix oil weight and viscosity?

 

if you calculate the mathmatical equation to mpg
the stock ecu only gives around 1/4 oz per gallon

 

Anyone know anything about this?

 

I use mineral spirets and eather. DRY THE SYSTEM OUT FULLY BEFOR INSTALL

I have read shops that claim they will clean and flush but I do not know what they use. And they were fairly pricy as you stated.

 

Alright, I've decided that once I remove the OMP, I'll be using Mobil 1 full synthetic 15W50, since they do not make a 20W50. There's other companies that make a synthetic 20W50, but I've always stuck to Mobil 1. I was actually thinking about getting the Red Line 20W50, and still would prefer that over Quaker State or Castrol's synthetic brands if I bought a 20W50 motor oil. I've also found out that regular oil changes will clean out the oil system, and that oil flush chemicals that you add the oil system usually end up damaging it. So I guess I've move onto my next question.

What mods can you do to the oil system besides removing the OMP? Are there certain parts you can replace or upgrade? Something like a better oil cooler, or new oil lines, or something like that? Anything that you know of at all, please let me know. I like to try and plan ahead, so anything you know about upgrading or removing the oil system components would help me out a ton! Thanks!

 

Alright, I talked to a few people about modding the oil system, and came up with this so far.

Mods that don't require a pulled engine:

Remove OMP and start premixing
Use synthetic oil
Corksport SS oil cooler lines
Racing Beat MFR oil cooler (very expensive)
TII or FD oil pump (depending on what you already have)
Higher output oil pressure regulator
RB oil pan baffle plate
Oil pedestal adapter with pressure and temperature gauges for monitoring
Oil thermal pellet replacement (more as a safety measure so the stock one doesn't fail)
There are also mods that can be done to the oil strainer/pickup, but they are intensive and for race applications

Mods that require a pulled engine:

3-window bearings for the front/rear stationary gears
MFR rotor bearings
Eccentric shaft oil jet modification with weber #200 jets
Port the oil pump passages

 

Does anyone know about any other mods that can be done to the oil system besides these? I'm hoping to get all the oil mods together so I can do all the work at one time instead of having to tear things back down after realizing I missed something. Thanks for the help.

 

If NZ is anything like Germany, its hard to find much lower than 95 octane at the pump. They actually routinely have 100 octane at the pump there.

 

http://pineappleracing.com/PricelistSvcs.html
Scroll down a bit for the oil mods he does, I think he has a few you didnt list.
As for the MFR oil cooler, it requires lots of work to put in and its not really needed unless you are doing some serious racing. And just to be picky, its not a racing beat part, just sold through racing beat.

 

I have not read the entire thread, so forgive me if this is already covered...

But why are you doing all this work to the oiling system?

BTW, you can swap to 3 window bearings without pulling the engine.

 

Well Aaron, the reason I'm doing all this work to the oil system is that I'd like to do it one system at a time and one step at a time. I figured since I was removing the OMP and switching to pre-mix that it would be a good time to start doing some mods to the oil system, and I was trying to gather all the information together on oil system mods. I'd add your info onto the list. And about that site, I'm not sure what a lot of that stuff is yet, and wasn't sure if I already had it listed on here.

Mods that don't require a pulled engine:

Remove OMP and start premixing
Use synthetic oil
Corksport SS oil cooler lines
Racing Beat MFR oil cooler (very expensive)
TII or FD oil pump (depending on what you already have)
Higher output oil pressure regulator
RB oil pan baffle plate
Oil pedestal adapter with pressure and temperature gauges for monitoring
Oil thermal pellet replacement (more as a safety measure so the stock one doesn't fail)
There are also mods that can be done to the oil strainer/pickup, but they are intensive and for race applications
3-window bearings for the front/rear stationary gears

Mods that require a pulled engine:

MFR rotor bearings
Eccentric shaft oil jet modification with weber #200 jets
Port the oil pump passages

 

The oiling system is already VERY good on the stock engine. Unless you are building large amounts of power (400+) and tracking the car, then you can skip a lot of stuff.

The following would NOT be on my list of things to do unless shooting for 400HP or more:

1. MFR Oil Cooler - Unless you are tracking the car (not counting drag and light autocross), it's just not necessary

2. TII or FD oil pump - unless you are building a high output and high revving NA (9K+), you don't need it

3. 3 Window bearings and hardened gears - same as above

4. MFR rotor bearings - same as above

5. Eccentric shaft jet mod - same as above. Really only useful on high revving or high output engines. Can have negative effects on oil pressure if other mods (oil bypass pellet, raised pressure) aren't done first.

6. Porting the oil passages - again, only really necessary if building high powr or high revving engines

Some may disagree, but I just don't see the point in spending time and money on areas that aren't a concern.