2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

FC Turbo Kit

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-03-13, 08:14 AM
  #26  
Rotary Power

iTrader: (15)
 
wthdidusay82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Dinwiddie, Va
Posts: 3,706
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by VANHALEN

13psi is nothing. I've ran that for years back then. Key is controlling it with a good boost controller and larger IC.

Like I said before in your previous thread. You cannot LOWER your boost. Your 3" turbo back exhaust will raise your boost to at least 1 bar whether you like it or not.
The stock turbo is not efficient after 11 to 12 pounds it will run hot and cause the turbo to blow its seals, the Turbo would need to be modified to run efficiently at higher than 12psi

Rotary > Pistons
Old 05-03-13, 10:49 AM
  #27  
Engine, Not Motor

iTrader: (1)
 
Aaron Cake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 110 Likes on 93 Posts
Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
The stock turbo is not efficient after 11 to 12 pounds it will run hot and cause the turbo to blow its seals, the Turbo would need to be modified to run efficiently at higher than 12psi
Rotary > Pistons
No, that's not why the turbo shouldn't really be run past about 12 PSI. It has nothing to due with blowing turbo seals, but everything to do with the fact the compressor out of it's efficiency island trying to supply that much air, and it ends up just heating the intake charge. Certainly not good for the turbo seals to overspin it, however that's not the primary concern.

IATs on the stock IC between 10 PSI and 14 PSI are MUCH higher.

Though the aftermarket hybrids have better thrust bearings and typically better seals to cope with the higher boost. But they also run lower shaft speeds due to the larger compressors...
Old 05-03-13, 01:24 PM
  #28  
Rotary Power

iTrader: (15)
 
wthdidusay82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Dinwiddie, Va
Posts: 3,706
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
I was planning on running 10 psi , I'm putting some reflective tape on my tmic to help with lowering iats.

Rotary > Pistons
Old 05-03-13, 02:10 PM
  #29  
version 2.0

iTrader: (17)
 
texFCturboII's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 3,590
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
The stock turbo is not efficient after 11 to 12 pounds it will run hot and cause the turbo to blow its seals, the Turbo would need to be modified to run efficiently at higher than 12psi

Rotary > Pistons
I think you missed Van Halen's point.
Old 05-03-13, 03:41 PM
  #30  
Rotary Power

iTrader: (15)
 
wthdidusay82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Dinwiddie, Va
Posts: 3,706
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
My exhaust is mostly 2.5" only the mid section is 3" so I hope it will be easier to keep it around 10psi

Rotary > Pistons
Old 05-04-13, 10:52 AM
  #31  
Engine, Not Motor

iTrader: (1)
 
Aaron Cake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 110 Likes on 93 Posts
Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
I was planning on running 10 psi , I'm putting some reflective tape on my tmic to help with lowering iats.
Rotary > Pistons
Reflective tape will do little to help IATs, as the primary source of temperature in the intake air is the turbocharger compressor. Really, the choices are:

1. Keep the boost in the efficiency range of the turbo
2. Upgrade the intercooler
3. Use some kind of aux injection to chemically cool the charge
Old 05-04-13, 10:59 AM
  #32  
Rotary Power

iTrader: (15)
 
wthdidusay82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Dinwiddie, Va
Posts: 3,706
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake

Reflective tape will do little to help IATs, as the primary source of temperature in the intake air is the turbocharger compressor. Really, the choices are:

1. Keep the boost in the efficiency range of the turbo
2. Upgrade the intercooler
3. Use some kind of aux injection to chemically cool the charge
What do you consider the efficiency range of the stock Turbo?

I'm doing what I can to run cooler, as I can't afford AI or upgrading my ic

Rotary > Pistons
Old 05-05-13, 10:27 AM
  #33  
Engine, Not Motor

iTrader: (1)
 
Aaron Cake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 110 Likes on 93 Posts
Around 10 - 12 PSI, depending on the engine.

Typically after 10 PSI on a 13B IATs start to increase significantly.

This is all pretty well documented.
Old 05-05-13, 11:14 AM
  #34  
Rotary Power

iTrader: (15)
 
wthdidusay82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Dinwiddie, Va
Posts: 3,706
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Around 10 - 12 PSI, depending on the engine.

Typically after 10 PSI on a 13B IATs start to increase significantly.

This is all pretty well documented.
I was going to run around 10 psi, my engine is.rebuilt with stock ports.

I know pretty much everything is documented but alot of the information is conflicting.

I do appreciate you answering my questions, thank you.

Rotary > Pistons
Old 05-08-13, 02:11 PM
  #35  
ROTARY POWER

Thread Starter
 
remydrm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: N.CA
Posts: 611
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I appreciate all the responses. I was really hoping to come across a plug/play turbo kit that would let me retain the stock intercooler or even just build a larger intercooler that would stay in the stock location. My main goal is to get this car setup for some hard driving and track days. I plan to tune the car for low boost, about 10psi. I think that would be enough to keep the car fun and the throttle down for most of the track.

I want to keep the front of the car open for a large radiator and 2 stock oil coolers running in parallel. I will sheet metal ducting designed to channel the air as efficiently as possible.

It's too bad the HKS sport upgrade isn't available anymore. The BNR seems like the best option at this point. I don't clearly understand the advantages of the Stage 2 vs the Stage 1. But I know that's about my boost/power level.

If intake air temps become a huge problem, I'll add water injection to help remedy it.
Old 05-08-13, 02:18 PM
  #36  
Don't hate my V8

iTrader: (4)
 
gear_grinder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cornfield, Indiana
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by remydrm
I appreciate all the responses. I was really hoping to come across a plug/play turbo kit that would let me retain the stock intercooler or even just build a larger intercooler that would stay in the stock location. My main goal is to get this car setup for some hard driving and track days. I plan to tune the car for low boost, about 10psi. I think that would be enough to keep the car fun and the throttle down for most of the track.

I want to keep the front of the car open for a large radiator and 2 stock oil coolers running in parallel. I will sheet metal ducting designed to channel the air as efficiently as possible.

It's too bad the HKS sport upgrade isn't available anymore. The BNR seems like the best option at this point. I don't clearly understand the advantages of the Stage 2 vs the Stage 1. But I know that's about my boost/power level.

If intake air temps become a huge problem, I'll add water injection to help remedy it.


stage 1 is a stock compressor housing with a bigger compressor wheel, stage 2 has a t04b compressor housing.

only running ~10psi you shouldn't need to change the turbo at all
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FD7KiD
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
15
02-26-21 10:12 PM
Th0m4s
Build Threads
25
02-26-19 02:04 AM
Turblown
Single Turbo RX-7's
0
08-14-15 04:48 PM



Quick Reply: FC Turbo Kit



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:13 PM.