FC Turbo Kit
#26
13psi is nothing. I've ran that for years back then. Key is controlling it with a good boost controller and larger IC.
Like I said before in your previous thread. You cannot LOWER your boost. Your 3" turbo back exhaust will raise your boost to at least 1 bar whether you like it or not.
Rotary > Pistons
#27
Engine, Not Motor
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IATs on the stock IC between 10 PSI and 14 PSI are MUCH higher.
Though the aftermarket hybrids have better thrust bearings and typically better seals to cope with the higher boost. But they also run lower shaft speeds due to the larger compressors...
#31
Engine, Not Motor
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1. Keep the boost in the efficiency range of the turbo
2. Upgrade the intercooler
3. Use some kind of aux injection to chemically cool the charge
#32
Reflective tape will do little to help IATs, as the primary source of temperature in the intake air is the turbocharger compressor. Really, the choices are:
1. Keep the boost in the efficiency range of the turbo
2. Upgrade the intercooler
3. Use some kind of aux injection to chemically cool the charge
I'm doing what I can to run cooler, as I can't afford AI or upgrading my ic
Rotary > Pistons
#35
ROTARY POWER
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Thread Starter
I appreciate all the responses. I was really hoping to come across a plug/play turbo kit that would let me retain the stock intercooler or even just build a larger intercooler that would stay in the stock location. My main goal is to get this car setup for some hard driving and track days. I plan to tune the car for low boost, about 10psi. I think that would be enough to keep the car fun and the throttle down for most of the track.
I want to keep the front of the car open for a large radiator and 2 stock oil coolers running in parallel. I will sheet metal ducting designed to channel the air as efficiently as possible.
It's too bad the HKS sport upgrade isn't available anymore. The BNR seems like the best option at this point. I don't clearly understand the advantages of the Stage 2 vs the Stage 1. But I know that's about my boost/power level.
If intake air temps become a huge problem, I'll add water injection to help remedy it.
I want to keep the front of the car open for a large radiator and 2 stock oil coolers running in parallel. I will sheet metal ducting designed to channel the air as efficiently as possible.
It's too bad the HKS sport upgrade isn't available anymore. The BNR seems like the best option at this point. I don't clearly understand the advantages of the Stage 2 vs the Stage 1. But I know that's about my boost/power level.
If intake air temps become a huge problem, I'll add water injection to help remedy it.
#36
Don't hate my V8
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I appreciate all the responses. I was really hoping to come across a plug/play turbo kit that would let me retain the stock intercooler or even just build a larger intercooler that would stay in the stock location. My main goal is to get this car setup for some hard driving and track days. I plan to tune the car for low boost, about 10psi. I think that would be enough to keep the car fun and the throttle down for most of the track.
I want to keep the front of the car open for a large radiator and 2 stock oil coolers running in parallel. I will sheet metal ducting designed to channel the air as efficiently as possible.
It's too bad the HKS sport upgrade isn't available anymore. The BNR seems like the best option at this point. I don't clearly understand the advantages of the Stage 2 vs the Stage 1. But I know that's about my boost/power level.
If intake air temps become a huge problem, I'll add water injection to help remedy it.
I want to keep the front of the car open for a large radiator and 2 stock oil coolers running in parallel. I will sheet metal ducting designed to channel the air as efficiently as possible.
It's too bad the HKS sport upgrade isn't available anymore. The BNR seems like the best option at this point. I don't clearly understand the advantages of the Stage 2 vs the Stage 1. But I know that's about my boost/power level.
If intake air temps become a huge problem, I'll add water injection to help remedy it.
stage 1 is a stock compressor housing with a bigger compressor wheel, stage 2 has a t04b compressor housing.
only running ~10psi you shouldn't need to change the turbo at all
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