class86act

i have an na car that i have just purchased a tII rear for, is there any way to use the N/A axles temporarly untill i locate the correct set of hubs and axles to go with my new rear? i dont really know much about mazdas, i am a GM guy and i have swapped a 350 chevy with a blower into the car, it is almost done, but this is one thing that is holding up the completion of the car.

thanks guys
dean

Japan2LA

iTrader: (256)

TII diff MUST be match with TII 1/2 shafts

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

..Btw..Japan2La is selling SEVEN pairs of Half shafts right now!

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

So do the T2 halfshafts bolt into the rear hubs fine then? I couldn't find anywhere on this site where that was confirmed.

I just bought a T2 complete diff to put in my NA s5 so if nobody answers I guess i'll post my finding s when I get a chance to work on the car.

Anyone know why the na halfshafts won't work with the t2 diff. I haven't looked under the car yet?

Anyone ever redrilled the pinion flange to accept a NA driveshaft? Since the NA driveshaft is only 1mm longer. I don't plan on getting rid of my na trans anytime soon since it works fine. Plus I probably only make 180hp at the flywheel max so a t2 transmission is pointless and a waste of money.

I searched a lot and theres alot of info for a turbo swapped na car with the na rear parts and a t2 trans but not the other way around like i'm talking about.

Oh! and has anyone ever checked if you can just swap the flanges between the two diffs? And or swap the snub axles?

Thanks in advance for any info and sorry to jack your thread I just didn't want to start a new one.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

The N/A half shafts won't fit onto the Diff as they have different Size Flanges.The Spline parts Are the same size,so they can go into either 4 lug or five lug hub assemblies.
Yes,So people do drill the driveshaft Flange to make an N/A shaft fit the TII,But in My opinion,it is Half-assed and Unsafe.
..www.mazdatrix.com sells a Conversion shaft to go from N/A trans to TII Diff,Or vice versa.You can also get a Driveshaft shop to make one for you.
I just Changed out the Whole Rear End(diff,shafts,Driveshaft,Camber adjuster.)it Was Fun..I was alone.Busted up Back and everything.It can be and WAS done!.the trick is Axle Stands,placing them in the Right place, and a Good Floor Jack..OH!..also a Good Impact Gun and Lots of patience.The Diff mount is a real Beotch...Good luck..STYX.

Japan2LA

iTrader: (256)

The correct wat to to it:
Buy TII 1/2 shafts
Buy TII D-shaft
Buy TII trans
Buy TII starter
Buy TII matching YOM to your car Flywheel, clutch disc, P-plate


All of this bolts in behind a NA or TII Motor


Jimmy Rig it if you want but its unsafe..

ncfc3s

iTrader: (1)

I also swapped everything over from an 87 turbo II to an 89 gxl....might as well just shoot yourself....it would be worth it not to have to swap everything over.....wait...are you telling me that the 89 gxl already has a limited slip rear end!!!???

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

So I guess the best way is to buy the $288 drive shaft and some T2 axles....

Does anybody know about swapping the flange on the pinion? Putting the na one on the T2 diff? If so then you don't need to nuy a driveshaft. I imagine you can't or they wouldn't sell a driveshaft for that application, but I'd like to know if anyone knows and why. Like is the diameter of the pinion shaft bigger on the T2 one than the na one or is just not the same shape inside at all?

I don't mind getting T2 axles but I don't reall want to buy mazdatrix driveshaft I think its overpriced and I'd probably just have a local driveshaft/machineshop modify the exsisting one for $100 that I was quoted. Thats rewelded and balanced with the bigger flange on it.

Why would I want a t2 trans then I need a flywheel and clutch and counterweight and all kinds of crap. That doesn't make since for this car like I said It's completely unproductive as far as cost return. It won't do anything for me accept make the car weigh more. Lets focus on the questions at hand not regurditate things that everyone knows already please. I know its stronger and this and that. I barely have the stock S4 T2 hp if I'm lucky and nowhere near the torque.

btw its a NA S5 with a complete racing beat road race exhaust, blitz air filter, block off plates, electric air pump for the ports and vdi, and little more as far as power goes. just a daily driver that I play with once in a while on the weekends since I don't have my FB right now.

mario1386

all you gotta do is place the n/a driveshaft infront of the t2 diff flange put it offset of the existing holes and drill the holes out

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

My diff flange and driveshaft are at the machine shop doing that right now. I'm having them turn down some of that thicker part on the back of the flange so the nuts fit easier as well. I just didn't want the nuts to close to the seal cover on the back side. But yeah like this guys says it's not a big deal to get done. They are just charging me $80 and you could actually do it yourself for free and buy some slightyly longer bolts to reach past the thicker part of the shaft.

Btw doing it this way won't make it weaker since its just the same as what you had already just looks a bit different.

I thought it was interesting that everyone said the na axles can take the power of the turbo engine. You gotta be kidding me. I've built customers cars like Civics in the past with 300+whp with about the same sized axles and they don't break why would they break on a rx7 where they are farther away and don't have as much torque applied to them? Just thought I'd mention that. especially considering the t2 ax;es are like 2mm thicker. IMO mazda should have only made one size or the other making two sizes is stupid and a waste of manufacturing money. The diff could have been open or lsd and be the same case and stub axles. Way to go mazda how stupid. I'd love to slap the engineers in the face for the abomination the FC is. No wonder they never make any money on rotary cars. They don't know how to make money..........anyways I just hate to see ignorant engineering like that.

Apparently there is no way to make the na axles work according to everyone I called a couple days ago to answer the post of the original thread starter. Also I didn't check but most people I talked to said the stub axles can't swap between the diffs either. Like I said I didn't check though. Everone agreed the stub axles were thicker on the lsd diff. I wish there has someone to verify this with pics though.

HTh3R0

iTrader: (1)

so did i see somebody say that the s5 gxl rear is LSD already?

russianmob

iTrader: (3)

yes, clutch type lsd

HTh3R0

iTrader: (1)

ninja edit: I just read what a clutch type is.

So is the s5 clutch type lsd strong or is it weak?
would you trust 400 hp on it?

russianmob

iTrader: (3)

no idea. i plan on doing a turbo swap pretty soon here and keeping n/a rear end. i will let you know how it goes

rogrx7

iTrader: (11)

save ur self the trouble and just swap it...

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

I can tell you already it will go well till you start making some decent numbers. Might want to either do it right, or have a few spare rear ends on hand.

drift2supra

so when changing out the rear end drive shaft and lsd do u also need to make it into five lug from what ive hurd from other threds if u have a 4 lug

Evil Aviator

The S5 is a VLSD, not a clutch type LSD.

Because a stock NA transmission tends to blow 3rd gear in racing applications around 220-230hp if it is not upgraded by a race shop. A street car with a somewhat stock TII engine and regular street tires should work fine with the NA transmission. If you really want to save money and weight then don't bother with any TII components, including the engine.