I know you guys are probably pissed I post up a lot of help threads hopefully this is my last one.

let me break it down

1. DIY Freshly rebuilt engine
2. Both rotors have 90 psi compression
3. Both injector connections have continuity
4. Both injectors were cleaned by WitchHunter Perfomance

Heres what it does
1. it cranks then it fires on
2. when it fires on it hits like 3-4k rpm then immediately shuts off
3. after a while of doing that it floods
4. i take out spark plugs and both are covered with fuel
5. I de-flood the engine

Heres what I did
1. Siphoned gas and fed it directly through the throttle body
2. Cranked it
3. It fired and stayed on
4. Then when i deprived the engine of fuel and it started shutting off (obviously)

so im guessing that when it turns over and starts the fuel is somehow
prevented from flowing to the engine. I need to know what to look for or what to check.

here is a video of it acting up


heres a video of me having it run artificially.


I SERIOUSLY NEED YOUR HELP!!!!

any and all advice is greatly appreciated including any negative abuse!!!!

thanks

 

is it just me or is your air flow meter and tube off of the throttle body? Put that black tube with the air flow meter correctly attached and then come back and see what she does

 

dang i forgot to clarify, with it on or off, it does the same thing, i had it running artificially with it off.

 

If the car revs to a high rpm followed by turning off then you likely have a vacuum leak.

 

but i got running by siphoning

 

Either way that needs to be on so id leave it on

^I would listen to him. Hes pretty much solved all of my rx related problems or led me to them

 

Imma try that

 

Also jumper the fuel check connector.

 

No it wont Run with the Air intake and air flow sensor unhooked. It might run for a quick second.. But its not going to idle and tun with all the intake hoses off

 

Swap your Air Flow Meter and see what happens after you reconnect all the intake/vacuum lines.

 

It's a common misconception that the engine can run without the airflow meter. It's true that today's cars can do that, because the ECU is smart enough to see the lack of activity, then ignore it. The Rx7 ecu, however, is 20+ year old technology, so it's not that smart unfortunately.

Commonly missed vacuum hoses:
-Brake booster vacuum hose, which is a HUGE vacuum leak.
-Not really a vacuum hose, but the 2 underneath the intake pipe close to the throttle body. If those are left unplugged, it's not necessarily a vacuum leak, but it's unmetered air, and that's not going to work.

Either way, the reason it runs with extra fuel is because you have extra air that's unaccounted for. Get a vacuum diagram and start tracing the system down, verifying all the hoses are in their proper locations.

Also, make sure your throttle plates are fully closing when you let go of the gas pedal. You can also pull the CAS and spin it to listen for injector clicks. Make sure the CAS is properly stabbed when you put it back in as well.

 

+1 for vacuum leak

you must have all the sensors connected and plumb in (map sensor, AFM, tps, AIT, ECT, etc...) for it to run and you'll still have to check your timing afterwords

 

Mine won't start either, it keeps flooding.
-I've tried the deflooding procedure, twice now (remove plugs, crank to blow out gas, etc, etc)
-Is it possible that the starter is cranking too slowly?? I've read elsewhere that it needs to be spinning @ least 250rpm to really make things happen. I've been around other 7's and the starter on mine is very loud/whinny...has been for awhile...

 

I had this problem before as well. But it was due to flooding mostly. Take out two of the spark plugs and crack it, ( it should "Throw-up" the gas that is in there). And also, Like everyone said you might have a vac leak somewhere. Another case could be that your fuel pump isn't sending enough gas to the engine.

 

another thing i am more commonly finding is uncleaned intake mating surfaces.

yes cleaning off the 25 year old gaskets is a royal pain in the ******* *** but you NEED to get all of that crap off and be sure your surfaces is perfectly flat and true.

i had one recently where every single intake mating surface had chunks of old gasket on it. i had to strip the customer's engine virtually all the way back down to the block and clean everything off. his engine would start and rev to 4k and immediately shut off and flood after a few tries. cleaning the gaskets off it would run if you feathered the throttle idling somewhat at 2.5k, at which point i found the AFM had been messed with, reset it to factory settings and it ran fine..

sometimes you can get by leaving the original gaskets alone if they aren't gouged or chunked up. but your problem sounds like a large vacuum leak, a faulty AFM, or a fuel system pressure/voltage problem.

 

Turns out my problem was a worn-out battery! It was only putting out 332cca versus the original 525...Ouch! BACK IN ACTION! (installed new batt w/540cca)

 

 

barkz, he's not the OP. His problem still persists apparently

 

regardless... lol

 

UPDATE!!!!!! it fired but it wouldnt hold idle prolly because there was a leak, i was trying to find the leak when my dad was reving it and we spun the rear rotor, im thinking because of the S5 housing i used, =( so now im looking for an S4 housing, fml!!!

 

what do you mean the rotor "spun"?

 

Spun the rotor bearing

 

how did you come to that conclusion? it takes a dramatic failure to spin one of those bearings. they don't "knock" like a piston engine with a spun bearing, the engine will just begin to seize.

 

I took it apart see attatchment. Luckily it was only the rear

 

well now you have to determine why it spun, generally due to lack of oil pressure.

it will also explain why it never wanted to idle, because the engine was in fact trying to seize.