1989_N/A

Well I used to have an '89 N/A. Unfortunately after a coolant o-ring blew I was forced into a rebuild that I couldnt afford so I hate to part ways with my beautiful 7. But oh how I miss her.

So my plan is to build a new FC. Complete from the ground up. I had a used engine blow on me and that wasnt fun. So what I am wanting to do is build one. Not from a used short block, but from bought new parts. I will salvage a body to slap it in, but the motor must be practically new. So I was wondering where I could get the parts to build an S5 turbo motor. I know where I can get the rotor housings but Im having problems locating irons, e-shafts, and rotors (which I was going to use Renesis rotors).

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

whereiscarmensandiego

well for 1 dont use renesis rotors in a turbo motor as theya re 10 2 1 compression or somthing.

and there is honestly no need to replace the rotors and irons and eshaft in most instances they dont really wear out all the wear is put on the housings and rotor bearings.

but if u must check out atkins and mazdatrix websites

Phantomkid

high compression low boost... hope you can tune reallly good. New parts are really expensive. I know racing beat makes some aftermarket rotors. sometimes on ebay you can find old new parts, that are new just old and there decently priced.

1989_N/A

Well I dont have to go with Renesis rotors, I just had heard that they were lighter and worked well in FC engines. But then again I have been out of the rotary department for a little while so Im a bit rusty coming back.

I really didnt know the compression ratios for the renesis rotors, but if yall say they arent a good choice then I will go in another direction.

I know there is no need to normally replace irons, rotors and e-shafts but I dont have any of those to start with. I had debated buying a jdm engine or something and tearing it down and rebuilding it. But I guess its almost piece of mind that wants me to buy and build a new motor.

Basically this is just an idea that I am trying to get ideas for before jumping in to it. Im trying to get out of the habit of making hasty decisions that backfire in the end. Thats why I turn to yall in my time of need.

well uhhh

a new motor is going to be ridiculously expensive. I think your best bet would be to invest in some inspection tools, dial caliper, and/or micrometers (better), feeler gauges, dial indicator etc and just use the best used parts possible from a JDM motor or whatever. Just my .02

1989_N/A

Well I have found a couple of non running, in need of rebuild, 88 N/A motors for $100 a pop. So I was thinking about buying one of those, but only if I can turbo an N/A motor.

I know Aaron Cake did his bridgeport N/A turbo motor, but I dont know how much went into that build cause I cant find all the threads for it anymore. So would buying a $100 N/A motor be a decent starting point for building up a turbo motor?

nepopolus

i wouldent bother trying to get a na motor to a nice turbo motor. just piece together a turbo motor with the best parts you can find. you also could get a reman motor from atkins or any of those company's and there is no way the motor would be flawed in any way.

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

We can't tell you what to do without a budget. You could go mad sick with lightweight rotors and aluminum endplates and oil mods and custom port work. Maybe a budget and a statement of what kind of HP numbers your looking for? Daily Driver, Weekend Warrior, Track Car. Ultimate 7? We need more specific info.

Ramses666

1989_N/A

Well I dont want to sound too much like a moron cause I never got to build a high horsepower 7 with my last one, so I dont really know what I'm looking at now.

My idea is to build a weekend warrior, bad *** 7. Something with 450+ horsepower. A marriage of show and go. I want the car, engine, and bay to look bad *** as well as being able to perform. Im figuring about a year on the motor build up cause Im in college full time and work full time. But a budget somewhere around $6000, give or take, for the motor. Then whatever else for the body as it comes along. I want turbo but it doesnt have to be as long as its turbo ready. Cause eventually I will be putting a turbo in it.

And Im also pretty handy at mechanics and metal fabrication, so alot of the work I will be able to do myself as far as assembly and mods go.

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Maybe you want a 20B? The ultimate in rotary performance. You would need to revise your budget and replace pretty much everything, but why not think big.... I WISH I could do it myself but I'm poor. Spend some time & look around here on the forum there is much info to digest. Although TII's can achieve impressive numbers there are many issues to be addressed.

Ramses666

1989_N/A

Well I had looked into buying a 20B as well, but they are somewhat hard to find around where I live. Plus I dont feel like buying a 5 grand motor and then having to do a 2 grand rebuild just for piece of mind. Especially when I can buy a 13B for 4200 and then do the rebuild.

1989_N/A

Ok, not to double post here or anything, but what about buying a 13B-RETT motor? I can get one locally for $1600. Could that fit in an FC body? Would that be a better starting point?

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Do an advanced search... there's quite a bit of info to digest.

Ramses666

1989_N/A

Ok, I did a real quick search and have seen alot of info about the conversions. Maybe, I wasnt too clear on what Im going to do. Right now I dont have a 7. Im going to buy a motor first and get it built the way I want it. Then I will buy the body and install it. And Im not talking about a running 7, just something that is stripped down has no real usable parts except the body. Then I will install everything to get it running. I plan on putting in aftermarket computers and everything else. When I said my budget was around $6000, thats only for the motor. I plan on spending more when it comes time to put everything together. Rest assured that this is not some weekend project Im trying to attempt, but rather something that I feel will take over a year to complete. I want it bad *** and done right. I dont mind making mods to something to make things work, hell I was a poor child I know how to work with sh*t and make it bad *** in the end.

But for me the 7 is the end all be all of bad *** cars, so I want one that represents that in every aspect. So while I do have a price tag in mind that I would like to keep it under, I understand that flawless cant have a price tag put on it. Im sure I will exceed my original budget, probably by a long shot, but thats a price Im willing to deal with. I wont break myself building the car and I wont settle on mediocre. Im not doing a swap but more a complete ground up build.

So with all that being said, Im sure there will still be some who say Im in over my head or dont know what Im getting myself into, but I assure you I do. Im ready to dive head first into this. I will sink a few times, but in the end I know that I will swim triumphantly to the end. So throw me your ideas to help me fuel my passion for my ultimate 7.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You need to spend more time and money on supporting mods that keep the engine reliable rather than some super badass motor built to all hell. A remanufactured engine with all OEM stuff can support 400+ to the wheels, as long as you have the right supporting mods and tuning.

The first thing I would do if I were you is go with a series 4 car if you are on a budget. We can sit here and debate s4 vs s5, but everyone can agree that s4 parts are way more plentiful and cheaper. There are a couple thousand s4 T2's on the road still, but there are approximately 800 genuine s5's...somebody posted the DMV registration info a while back. If I were you, I would buy a Mazda reman engine or a JDM motor (from a reputable supplier), pull it apart, port it, and spec it out. Call Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda's parts department about a reman (866-484-3096). If you want to, get the rear iron from an s5 if you build an s4 motor, because they are stronger. This will definately cost you less than $6000 and should be enough. But the best built motor will still go boom if you don't have the right supporting setup.

Then the rest of your money should go to proper supporting mods: radiator, injectors, a good manifold + turbo + wastegate combo, standalone engine management and tuning from someone reputable (or take the time to figure it out yourself), etc.

So re-orient your priorities some. Having a reliable rotary isn't so much about correcting inherent weaknesses in the engine shortblock itself, it's about choosing the correct combination of parts (and installing them correctly, especially the wiring and plumbing) so they all work together properly with good tuning.

1989_N/A

Yeah, I understand that arghx. I really do. Im not trying to be an *** here, but Im trying to explain what I want and how I want to do it, and yet everyone still tells me its the wrong way.

But I would much rather do all the supporting mods for a motor thats got 450hp and spend roughly the same as doing support mods for a 250 hp engine.

uptotibet

Who is going to rebuild your trans, diff, and axles to handle 450hp reliably?

Is the brake system clean and up-to-snuff? Hows your suspension?

1989_N/A

I DONT HAVE THE CAR!!!!!!!!! I REPEAT, I DO NOT HAVE THE CAR!

So with that all being said, who wants to give real suggestions now?

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Go with the 20B. your gonna redo everything anyway. Why dick around with something you won't be happy with? That's what I would do. you can have as many HP's as you want or support. Unless you want to get walked by 'vettes, 'stangs, ect... you could easily do 500-600 hp from what I've seen around this forum. Even more if you really wanna trip *****. I mean... that's what your thinkin' right?

Ramses666

1989_N/A

I've seen 13B's blow past vettes and especially mustangs. But when a 20B costs $6000 used, then still needs a rebuild? Thats not the smartest option.

Personally I was happy with my 13B N/A other then the fact that it wasnt turbo'd. Speed of a car, however, isnt determined merely by horsepower but by a power to weight ratio. 450hp from an 1800lbs car, will easily hang with 500-550hp in a 3500lbs Vette, if not stomp it.

I just dont understand why all the bull **** and avoidance of my questions. I know that stock 13B-RE Twin Turbo's make 298hp. Its not too much of a stretch to push another 152hp out of it. If you're just gonna dance around the question, then dont answer. I came back looking for honest help because rotaries are a trick beast and I am looking for some expertise. I didnt ask how many rotors would give me more horsepower, I asked what parts should I look at to make a 13B reach 450 hp. Thats not a real hard question to answer.