Rex4Life

I'd go back and bitch up a storm. They should have it as standard practice not to over torque the nuts--what if you had a flat, sure as hell won't change it with that wrench mazda supplies.

I know NTB hand tightens the lugs--at least the shop here does.

Scott

Pinfield357

its common practice at most tire places to just zip them on with an impact gun its faster that way ans what do they care they got the impact guns to get them off...

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

I know that it is common to do that. But they are supposed to be "pro's" It wasn't one of those shitty places that you find **** all over the place. It is supposedly a reputable shop. How hard is it to turn the impact wrench down a notch? Most of them just have a little lever on the back of them that adjusts the tourqe that is applied. I would have had an impact wrench but I decided to not buy it yet. I feel stupid now. If I had bought the thing I wouldn't have this god damned problem.

Felix Wankel

buy a good impact when you get one, mine is cheap and I have to use my 2' breaker bar to break stuff loose because my impact isn't strong enough. I don't weigh much more than you do.

I don't see how changing a tire damages a brake line.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

Well He would hang the wheel/tire on the hub at an angle and that may have bumped the line or something. The point is that that wasn't leaking when we checked the brakes after the install. Something had to have happened from that time till now. They are the only ones that touched that area since the install. I am not going to go off right from the start. First I just want to tell them that My **** is leaking and I can't remove the lug nuts so I will aks them to loosen them so I can inspect my car. If something is broken then I will ask them to replace it. Its not like I am going to sue them for 20k dollars for a brake line. I just don't like crap to happen to my stuff.

Santiago

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

no no... it should be standard practice to use an air wrench and then HAND check the nut.

Good example here a friend of mine had a mazda mp3. Had snow tires/wheels put on and the air gun was running low so it didn't torque as much as the tech thought it did. Well... his wheel fell off and sent his car flipping over a jersey wall. Luckily he's still alive, and unfortunatly.... he was forced to get his car repaired. (somehow even tho the insurance company totalled it, the shops insurance would only cover the repair amount.)

Gene

iTrader: (1)

I always ask them to hand-install at the shop I get my tire stuf done at. I always tip well though, so they like me a lot. As for getting the wheel off, I keep a can of WD-40 and one of those big 1.5 foot + shaped lug wrenches in my trunk, and use anti-sieze before I put the wheels on.

You might want to try hitting the nuts with some WD-40 and letting it sit a while, and then slightly tightening the nut, and then trying to remove it.

neptuneRX

It wouldn't suprise me if they did break the lines. My mom brought her Blazer into a Chevy dealer to get an oil change they drained the car, but forgot to add oil, 8hours later my mom's car was brought back on a tow truck because the engine fried itself.... frankly I wouldn't trust anyone to touch my car that I didn't know really well.

Wankel7

Damn dude, sorry to hear you are having all the problems.

Time to borrow your moms car and go into town to buy that impact wrench you were going to by.

Simple way to know if that is brake fluid. Is your pedal as squishy as 10 day old fruit?

Also, your strut could have ruputured.

James

TonyTurboII

I admit, its their fault for over tightening the lugnuts, but the brakes leaking? Maybe its a conspircacy, they notched your lines hoping you would fly off the road on the way home.

Also I though someone with such a postwhore status would know your not supposed to use foul language in the titles of threads.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

I attempted to correct but only the post tittle changed not the link on the section. :/

And if they dropped one of my wheels on the line they would be at fault wouldn't they?

THey loosend the a while ago but I am at work at the moment and don't have my jack or stands. By tommorow I will know if it is just the bleeb screw or a line or whatever. BTW one of my lug nuts was cross threaded. They had to snap the stud. They ARE paying for that on monday.

jon88se

get used to it guy, drive an old car (no matter how clean) that doesn't look like boku $ has been POURED into it and you get the standard treatment. Lucky your rotors aren't warped now...

Wankel7

Dude, it is good that you have to wait till monday. Just remember to.....CHILL.

You gotta be calm man. Normally, the best way to get your way.

So you got the tire off?

James

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Tsk tsk...Bad words in the thread title...I am offended...

JPA

My RF brakeline was leaking, and Cartek got 1 from the dealer, no need to by the set, here anyway. Sounds like the dealer is misleading you. Imagine.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Don't take them off yourself, take the car back up there and demand that they torque them between 87-100 ft lbs. Any studs that break, they will have to replace. It is common for studs to break when over tightened because the threads streach on the stud and the lug nut wont come off, so u have to break them to get the wheel off. This is actually pretty common, so dont be freaken out about them having to replace a stud or two. And its ok to use an air guns, u just have to make sure u use torque sticks. I know this stuff cus i'm the "Sears Auto Center tire specialist"

pengarufoo

no ****, it's no problem to use an impact gun to tighten lugs. Like he said, you must use torque sticks. They are long dogbone looking extensions that are calibrated to transmit up to a certain quantity of torque from the impact gun. You only use them for tightening, most shops have a table on the wall for reference which says what colored torque stick to use on what cars, and an array of sticks all color coded. It's an expensive set so it's usually a shared thing for the whole shop.

the shop you brought your car to sucks from the way it sounds, it's because of this type of work that I do all my own work. I used to work at a brake/muffler/suspension shop (CarX) back in the day, nobody there gives a **** about quality.

PPC-Racing

if your 121lbs and the bar was 2" long and you were resting ALL your weight on it then you were applying 242ft/lbs of force unless you have some hump'in compressor at home then I doubt you'll get more then 135ft/lbs of impact force going provided you have deep socket, 6 point sockets. Also 9.8 hardness bolts are NOT rated for that kind of tension, ( neither is the aluminum of the rim for that matter..), your going to need to chage those studs as well, they are probably more then 15% or so out of spec and that measn that they could snap/shear next time they are tightened or nect time you have a fairly hard road impact.

Your best bet is to use an oxy torch to heat the lug and use that 2" johnson bar on it, just becarful of the aluminum, it will melt long before you turn steel red.

SupSai7

iTrader: (8)

How the hell do you pinch a brake line while installing a wheel? Mabe the lines weren't installed properly? And NO shop that does tires everyday will torque wrench your lugs.

HAILERS

I look and say the leak is where the parking brake/emergency brake device is in the caliper. It does not sound or look like a tire change induced leak.

Redwood

Okay, so it's obvious the shop messed up on the torque specs. Big deal, you can settle that with them easy enough.

The big thing here is the brake leak.

There is no way to know whether your brakes would be leaking if you took it to the shop or not. More than likely, they didn't do anything. It is simply foolish to assume that they were at fault for it at this point. You need to inspect EVERYTHING regarding that brake caliper/line. My guess? One of the washers was over-torqued on install and has since developed a slow leak (I hope that's what it is because it's simple to fix, and the irony there is priceless ). The most likely thing is the bleeder screw not being perfectly seated, a little worn, or just leaking through some combination of the two.

Too often people blame a shop because after it left the shop, a problem developed. This is a valid argument if they changed the oil and then BAM there's no oil. But the argument holds less water if they changed a rim and a brake leak developed.

I'm not saying it's not possible they caused the leak, it's just not likely and you should ensure the problem is from them. Even then though, do you really think they'll care?

mcnemar1982

That really sucks man.

88IntegraLS

******* foxnord szht dood, yo11!1 dat zzuckxx

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

I took some pics of the area I think is leaking but I don't have time to post them right now.


I just want to add that it was your ordinary impac gun not any special one. They had it set to the highest setting to be able to get it off. Sometimes it took ~20 seconds to start moving the lug nut. Again they broke one stud because the guy that put them on cross threaded it. I am going tommorow hopefully to get a new one put in. I just hope they don't take long.

Santiago


PS- thanks to the mod that edited the tittle.

Crusader_9x

where i work (put tires on and what not) we have torque sticks that prevent the gun form over torquing the nuts on all cars. our cars are 80 ft lbs. which is about 45-90 degress past finger tight. lug nuts really dont ned to be to tight atr all