silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Yea, been contemplating this for awhile now. Been sceptical b'c I live In T.O where the weather could get cold. Although the TB Mod may have my s4 n/a running like ****, for the first 10 minutes In cold weather, I'll deal with It.

With my Intake/Exhaust and Ignition done up, I'm sure that I'll see significant gains with porting and the TB Mod.

I also have to Install my hi flow Walbro Fuel Pump and am saving up for a S-AFC. Whoo baby, Ill be flying now.

Suds7

Has anyone hit the dyno on a before and after for this one?

rico05

Nope, but I did notice a nice increase in throttle response. I dobut that the TB mod really has any major gains in hp numbers, but it does make your turbo spool a bit quicker I hear, and for the N/A guys, it gives very nice throttle feel and response. Porting should add like as much as 8-10 hp from all things I have read, but I have never done it, so it could just be B.S.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I plan on dynoing my FC as It Is right now. Then after this conversion.Then followed by the added pump and S-AFC. Damn that Is alot of dynoing I have coming up.

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

cool beans... let us know the increase (if any).

dre_2ooo

Porting adds noticeable horsepower.. I'd say around 15-20bhp on a S5 and 10-14hp on a S4 (you'll feel it MUCH more if you have headers).

The TB will SUCK in the winter... that's why I never did it. You can juust remove the secondary plates to get nearly the same effect.... without the annonance of holding the acelerator for 10 mins every time you start up

TURB0 II

my winters arent cold, will it affect mine?

ka8legend

Is that just from porting the throttle body WITHOUT having to port the lower & upper intake lips?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

In relevance to the upcoming conversion, I have a RB Header/S.S Bruleen Exhaust/S.S Hi-Flow Cat. For Intake I have a K&N Filtercharger with custom cold air box and ram air. For Ignition I have RB Hot Wires and a Crane Cams Ignition box.

Although stock, I have a reman engine with less than 50k on It. It bothers me everytime I think about It. I should have ported It when I had the chance to.

Anyway, these are the applicable mods I have right now that will "compliment" the upcoming porting of the Intake and the TB Mod.

dre_2ooo

Read my write up of porting on the top of the 2nd gen section...

That is porting the Upper intake plenum, upper intake manifold, and lower manifold.

ka8legend

Right, I read that again to double check, and it seem like ROTARYMAN88 found only 5whp on a Streetport motor and 13whp on a Bridgeport motor, which led me to wonder if what you felt(from your non-ported 13b??) was a result of porting the lower,upper, middle AS WELL AS porting Throttle Body.

RylAssassin

This is defetly a mod i need to perform, i own an N/A as well but i fear it might be a little difficult. How difficult is it? PLease get us some feedback once you finished the mod-Thanks

Rotorific

iTrader: (1)

dude im kind of tired of starting my car and reving and holding it for 5 minutes and its just not 1 time its every time my car cools thoroughly

mazdaspeed7

I disagree about cold starts. Lets think about this for a minute. The enrichmeont for the fast idle cam is taken care of by the TPS, because the fast idle cam moves the throttle plates. Therefore, the ECU will know if the fast idle cam isnt affecting the throttle plates, and will know not to add extra fuel, since the throttle plates are in the normal idle position. So therefore, the only effect fast idle cam/thermowax has is opening the throttle plates more, an dlets the TPS take care of the additional fuel.

The general cold start enrichment is taken care of by the water temp sensor, and has nothing to do with the fast idle cam/thermowax.

In conclusion, the only reason SO many FC's wont idle when cold after the TB mod would be to doing it improperly. The most common cause is VACUUM LEAKS. I know this because I have done the full TB mod, and my car wouldnt idle when cold forever. Well, I just fixed a vacuum leak I had, and guess what...my car idles fine when cold. Its a little rougher than normal, but it holds a good idle, and doesnt stall.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

So you are In favour of the TB Mod and In It's use of It In cold weather b'c you found your vacuum leak? Also when you say "full TB Mod" you mean like the write up that RETed's site?

mazdaspeed7

I dont know if it would work perfect for you, since it gets so cold there. I live in Savannah, Ga, and it is HOT here.

I said theoretically. It shouldnt have an effect(it doesnt here), but it might be different when the temps are 100 degrees lower outside. And by full TB mod, I mean removing he thermowax and fast idle cam, in addition to the secondary throttle plates.

My advice: Do at your own risk. I simply dont know if it will work as it should where you live, theres just too many other factors affecting it. you might have to stay on the gas for the first few minutes until it starts to get warm, and then it will idle, but Im sure you wont have to wait for it to be fully warm before it will idle. If you do, you have other problems, like a misadjusted TPS or vacuum leak.

j spec monkey

i dont understand the hub bub. i have the full full tb mod...removed all the cold start plates cams ect. moved that annoying hose from the bottome and rerouted. and also ported out the tb to smooth out the flow. and i also have the ported manifolds and when it starts my idle is at anywhere between 750-900 rpms and i live in NY. yeah its a TII but still.... people have been saying with these mods you cant idle below 1000rpm but it sits rock steady at the 800ish mark. but i will tell you i did notice a large increase in throttle response and maybe a few hp. i also have deleted just about everything i possibly can omp-emissions-ect.... i have about 4 vac lines left and a large assortment for turbo control A-VCR guage,stock boost sensor, and i dont have the elusive pill i hear so much about and no probs.... not knocking anyone here but im just adding my experiance of this matter and hope to help out.


12.74 1\4 mile @19psi stock turbo and block

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'd say that T.O temps are very simuliar to New York temps. So In colder weather you don't find yourself pressing the gas pedal to speed up warming your car for fear of letting go of the pedal your car will bogg out and shut off?

mazdaspeed7

Thank you for confirming this. I now feel sure that anyone who cant get their car to idle after the TB mod didnt do it right. If you do it right, and dont have any vacuum leaks, youll be fine.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Do the TB mod, but don't remove the cold start thermowax. That's what I did. Just loose the secondary butterflies...that's where the gains are anyway.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking of doing this as an alternative. But I like the Idea of having a free flowing TB without that 90 degree coolant hose not being In the way w/o the damn cold startup.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Yours is an NA, so you don't have the 90 degree hose (thankfully).

wankelhead

yeah,i also sucessfully ported my tb and s5 intake,and my idle is rocksolid at 750[well,actually,i am getting a random looping every once in a while now,but i'm gonna be readjusting everything again to see if i can take care of that].this is with mild streeport,and i'm breaking in my motor,to boot.
of course,i have a soare tb with all the fast idle stuff on it,so if it gets bad in winter,i can swap'em out...

ka8legend

Yep, silky smooth idle here after TB mod. It only takes a minute to warm up and see a steady idle. Before adjusting the tps, the engine would not hold an idle even after after running her for 20minutes.