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Exhaust Manifold Stud Broke In Block: How Do I Remove It?

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Old 06-04-07 | 10:20 PM
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Exhaust Manifold Stud Broke In Block: How Do I Remove It?

This sucks. I tightened one of the nuts down too tight on my exhaust manifold and the stud broke of in the front rotor housing (front housing, lower stud) I was just wondering how I could possibly get this out?
Old 06-04-07 | 10:26 PM
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Maybe try some easy out? If not you can to go a good exhast shop they can maybe weld a bolt to it and take it out. I think easyout or counter thread bits only works sometimes and they can break in the stud to make problem worst.
Old 06-04-07 | 10:35 PM
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How much of the stud is still sticking out?

Because what you can do is use a grinder and grind off a samll part on each side so you have a good pull with vise-grips. Heat the stud with a torch at the base so the casting expands and unscrew the stud with vise-grips.
Old 06-04-07 | 10:50 PM
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that stsinks, hope you get it fixed soon, let us know what you did to get it out
Old 06-04-07 | 11:15 PM
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That sux bro, I feel for you. The same thing happened to me when I was taking mine off to install the header. Somehow the nut must have gotten misthreaded and I ended up braking off the tip of the stud. Fortunately I could back the stud out enough to get the nut rethreaded for installation.
I like twistedrivers idea but unfortuately I think getting in that tight of a spot to weld might be near impossible... hmm..
If there is enough stud to get a grip on go buy a stud puller that hooks up to your socket wrench. If worse comes to worse you'll have to drill and retap it, that would envolve a lot of work though. Best of Luck!
Old 06-04-07 | 11:30 PM
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drill it out, or punch a tap then get some gizmo to pull it out
Old 06-04-07 | 11:35 PM
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those offset stud removers SUCK, don't waste your money.

If there is alot of neck left on the stud you can try to weld on a nut and back if off. Wait till the steel cools after welding though and if anything, slightly heat the AL

If there is little to no neck left, you can try to weld on a piece of flat stock to give something to put some grip to.

If there is even less neck than that on take a cut-off wheel and put a X into it and try an impact driver. Just make sure you get the X dead center becuase if that don't work, out comes the drill, the easy out *shudders* than the tap, maybe the drill again and a Heli-Coil
Old 06-04-07 | 11:39 PM
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oh my god! i had the same thing just happen to me on friday night when i installed my RB header. but mine was the top front one. first it broke off at the nut, so i put some penatrint on it and used a stud puller after the manifold was off and it ended up snapping off at the housing. i have no clue how to get the dam thing out now! i have a vary small exhaust leak when its cold. so im not to worried.
Old 06-04-07 | 11:51 PM
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cut a notch in it, and use a rotatry impact thats hammer driven with a flat screwdriver head.
Old 06-05-07 | 12:21 AM
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Hmm... Yeah, there is no "neck" left to grip. I will try a few different things while my turbo is off. Thank you for all of your input~
Old 06-05-07 | 07:57 AM
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If there is no neck left, just drill it.
Old 06-05-07 | 12:40 PM
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Same thing happened to me with one of the stock coolant lines for the turbo.
The stud on the block snapped and there was about 5cm of stud left. I couldn't
fit a drill to extract it out, So all I did was reverse the nut and threaded to what was
left on the stud and started turning and the stud came out!

But if theres no stud left, just drill it out. Use a good E-Z out and be careful
Old 06-07-07 | 10:08 AM
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any luck??
Old 07-01-07 | 11:25 PM
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Hey fellas this just happened to me. There is about 2 inches of stud sticking out I just cant seem to get it to turn with anything. I welded a nut on it but I dont think I let it cool long enough and it just broke back off. Any other ideas?
Old 07-02-07 | 09:18 AM
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maybe let it cool longer if that was your problem.
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