exhaust Install from jackstands?
#1
exhaust Install from jackstands?
Anybody done their own exhaust installs? Anybody done it from jack stands? I have a torch, and I have air tools, but I don't have a lift.. anyone know something that would keep me from being able to do a cat-back exhaust on a 86 GXL myself?
If this has already been discussed in another thread, then a link to that thread would be much appreciated..
Many thanks...
If this has already been discussed in another thread, then a link to that thread would be much appreciated..
Many thanks...
#2
as long as you get the car high enough off the ground to easily slide under you should be fine. I would definately want help when you are hanging the catback though, its not easy to hold it up yourself.
#3
Jackstands work for me. I don't know if aftermarket systems would present any unique problems, but I've had the factory system on/off an 87 TII many times, with no problem. I always leave the system together as one piece, and unbolt it from the pre-cat outlet. When I re-install, I first put the front on very loosely, next put jackstands under the mufflers, and then pry on the rubber donuts at the rear of the car. Last, I connect all the intermediate hangers. Jackstands provide plenty of room, and may even offer an advantage--you don't have as far to lift.
#4
i used jackstanda when i put in my bonez system, i had to take out everything to get the cat to come off the y-pipe, rust . . ., but yeah just jack it up nice and high and in the right places and you'll be good, help to have an extra hand around as well
#6
Its no problem with jackstands, as long as they go high enough that you and the exhaust can fit under the car. I've done exhausts on several cars with only a pair of jackstands and someone to help.
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#8
Jackstands will work just fine. I installed my RB down pipe, pre-silencer, and cat back by myself. Man!! it was heavy, especially when laying on your back, holding the exhaust up with one hand and wrench in the other.
#11
I pulled the complete stock exhaust from my 7 alone with just jackstands. Putting it back on alone isn't that bad if you use the factory jack to support the exhaust piping while you bolt it up. You don't even need the handle to raise and lower the jack, turning the jack's screw by hand will suffice.
#12
I had mine up on four stands and used the jack to lift the exhaust while I bolted it all up and put on those pesky donuts!
Use a jack and a pry bar to move your exhaust close to the donut your working with. I read a thread where the talked about how to stretch the donut. this didn't work for me and I had baterr luck moving the exhaust closer and putting the donut on.
Use a jack and a pry bar to move your exhaust close to the donut your working with. I read a thread where the talked about how to stretch the donut. this didn't work for me and I had baterr luck moving the exhaust closer and putting the donut on.
#13
those donut things **** me off, even my old ones here hard to stretch . . . right now . . my catbacks are held on by zipties . . . I'm hoping to get the SSAutochrome duals sometime (would love to have osmethitng like n1's or RB, but dont want to spend that much)
#14
While were on the discussion, I find that my jackstants (just over a foot high) are barely useable. I mean, if I want it any higher (wich they can do) using the jack on the crossmember, the car looks like its gonna wobble off! I get ******* scared doing it becuase im afraid if I press that jack pump one more time, its gonna slip off the crossmember and impale my engine!
How do you guys get around this? is there a safer way?
How do you guys get around this? is there a safer way?
#16
[QUOTE=
How do you guys get around this? is there a safer way?[/QUOTE]
I use 4 blocks that I cut from a 2x4. I cut grooves in each block so that I can place them at the spots where the factory jack fits. The ridge along the rocker panel fits into the groove of the block so that the car rests flat on the wooden blocks (just like it does on the factory jack). I use the blocks with jackstands that are flat on top, and the car seems very sturdy.
How do you guys get around this? is there a safer way?[/QUOTE]
I use 4 blocks that I cut from a 2x4. I cut grooves in each block so that I can place them at the spots where the factory jack fits. The ridge along the rocker panel fits into the groove of the block so that the car rests flat on the wooden blocks (just like it does on the factory jack). I use the blocks with jackstands that are flat on top, and the car seems very sturdy.
#17
i always use jack stands... exhaust work, when i pulled the tranny for the clutch job... everything! just make sure your safe, all the legs of the stands are touching the ground.... dont mess around. our cars a light, but youll still die if it falls on you. make sure everything is solid before you get under at all.
#18
I'd just be careful of the car rocking/falling off the jackstands
especially if you're not using air tools & just pounding on the nuts with a hammer, it's always better to be safe than sorry.
especially if you're not using air tools & just pounding on the nuts with a hammer, it's always better to be safe than sorry.
#20
I used 6x12" blocks under the front tires & Ramps out back, when I installed my bonez racepipe & corksport catback on my old 87. There was plenty of room to roll on a creeper, & its a bit safer than jackstands. Especially when your subframe is rusted through, & the Jack pokes through the bottom of the car!
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