Try the stock fan. Not like installing it will cost you anything.

You might need to bleed your cooling system, there's no reason it should get that hot from just driving around.

If all else fails upgrade the radiator and try water wetter.

If your fan was wired properly it would not have burnt up the relay. If you cannot wire up the fan properly you would be better off with a clutch fan (although if you can wire in a PFC you should be able to).

That being said, don't think its the fault of the fan, the taurus fan is more than capable of cooling your most any setup more efficiently than the clutch fan if properly wired. Properly = using both speeds, with the high speed set to come on at your "don't go any higher than this" temp.

I forgot to mention I have a Koyo Rad. and I have very good skills when it comes to wiring.

My issue with the stock fan has never been that it didn't work but finding a good used thermoclutch is not easy and new ones are pricey.
I was willing to overlook the prehistoric attempts at control and it did work fine till it started to permanently lock up and I tried sourcing a replacement, a problem made more difficult since the S4 and S5 parts don't interchange.

I would wager that if you wired the fan as I suggest here, you wouldn't have any future electrical problems.

Edit: Thanks Clokker, that ^^^ is the "proper" wiring I was referring to.

.....so if it was a bad relay, replace the relay.

Are you using the low speed or the high speed?
How thick is your IC core?
What is the relay rated at?

I am using the high speed fan.
I have the normal koyo rad whatever thickness that is (about double stock)
The relay I was/am using is a start relay from a ford mustang. i think it's 100amp. (I only troubleshot for about 30 mins last night.)

Quick question what is your preferred coolant ratio? This is something my friend suggested to me a few minutes ago, which I completely overlooked. Also, I have not seen anything mentionned about coolant ratios in this thread. Before installing the FMIC and my koyo rad, i would just go and buy the Prestone premix (not optimal) and it worked fine. Now that heat is more of an issue I should probably go to a leaner mixture.

IC core....not rad. 2"? 3"? 4"?
If you burnt up a 100amp relay on a fan that pulls less than 50 amps I would question your assertion that you have "very good" wiring skills.

As far as coolant ratios, the difference between running 80/20 and 50/50 isn't going to overheat your car. Don't waste your time or money with water wetter either, (c'mon its canada, not nevada lol) those are bandaids to avoid fixing the real problem.

The IC is a 2-row 3" core.
You can question my wiring skills all you like...:icon_tup: The relay was not physically burnt but does not conduct anymore when it is energized. (thats what I meant by burnt)

Now what I really need to know is, should my fan need to turn on when I am driving on the highway? I assume no.
And my fan should be able to cool the Rad to the point that the fan turns off, which it is not doing. like I said, it's triggered to turn on at 87*C Is that too low of a trigger temp while running a FMIC?

I'd suggest you slightly modify your setup to use LOW before HIGH, the startup spike is much gentler.
You could swap the trigger over to the LOW circuit and manually override to HIGH if/when needed.

I think what I will do, is wire up the low speed to the factory thermoswitch and then raise the trigger temp to above 87* in the PFC for the high speed, to say 90*C. thanks!

Sounds like a plan :icon_tup:

A 3" core should be fine, I asked because I have a friend with a 4" core and even with all the stock pieces in place his temps are still higher than ideal.

If the relay you are using does not have a weather sealed connector you should try very hard to keep it tucked away from all moisture.

As far as your fan running on the highway, it shouldn't. However if your shroud covers the whole rad (I know the nissan quest shroud does) it will restrict airflow and cause your fan to run more than it should. Some OEMs like volvo employ little vents in the shroud to combat this.

good thing u brough this back to life yesterday it was 90+ out went for a good 45 min drive to the beach , started boosting a little started slowly rising , never went past halfway tho , but to me half way is too hot . and i drive with the efan on sometimes now on highway

More than once Ive helped folks with high temps on the hwy and fine in town and it ended up being that the fan was reversed.

It can feel like its blowing the right way but thats because you have never felt it run the right way.

Verify its rotating the right way with your current wiring.

I built an fmic car with an ac condenser. With the belly-pan off it still functions fine.
Ive seen horribly constructed FMIC setups that still run fine, no belly pan.

Your water temp goes up with boost, thats normal.

Verify your temp, the stock guage is not in any way an accurate means of guaging temp other than cold, medium and hot.

Well I worked on the car this afternoon. I replaced the relay. fan works fine....but IT WONT TURN OFF!!

I flushed some coolant out and replenished it with distilled water, no change.

The Relay I have is a Starter solenoid for a ford ranger. It gets quite hot while the fan is running. Although it is rated for 100 amps I am unaware of it's long term current carrying capacity. I bugged the guy at the shop for some specs but he was no help. Since It is a Starter Relay I assume it is only rated at 100 amps for 10-15 seconds.

Since my rad is also new and I have filled the coolant a few times now(bleeding), how likely is it that I have an air pocket in the system? I need this fan to eventually turn off. Even at idle it wont drop below my fan trigger temp

Best way to test it is to get a piece of paper or sticky, and place it on the front of the radiator, wihile the fan is on, the paper should get "sucked" into the radiator. If its reversed, the piece of paper will go flying and end up in the tray/floor.

So what is the problem, that the fan should turn off and it doesn't? Out than your car never cools down to the point where the fan should shut off?

If you are concerned about the suitability of the relay why not get a relay for i dunno....a two speed cooling fan? It shouldnt be any more expensive at the store and would probably be free at the same place your fan came from.

An air pocket seems quite likely. You should rent a pressure tester and check your hoses and connections for leaks. Even the smallest leaks (one droplet every 3-4 seconds @ 20psi) can be enough to let in enough air to keep your coiling system from working properly.

Also, GregW may have a point, when I had the villager fan/shroud it would drop the temps like 10 degrees in 12-15 seconds and cycle off while idling w/the hood up (and that was on the low speed), so something is definitely wrong here.

You nailed it. The reason my solenoid burnt out (I think) is because it would not cylce off. The car has been doing this ever since I put the new rad in, I installed the fmic at the same time. I had the same fan installed on my stock rad and it would barely ever come on. and when it did it worked properly.

I will try burping the system.
If burping" the system does not work I will buy a pressure tester

Amt- do you have one of those bleed funnels?
They work good


I think the rush of hot air in your face tells you the fan is blowing the right way

No sir. looks like i need to go shopping. :nod: I'm starting to believe the whole problem is something to do with an air pocket.

just a suggestion but i would also try bumping up the temp setting on the power fc. I run mine at 93c and it helped a lot in causing the fan to cycle off an on. I know when it was set at 87c it would almost never shut off. I also vented my hood right behind the radiator which made a huge difference. If you have a turbo hood put a reverse scoop on it or put something over the hole for the scoop on the underside of the hood to keep the air from coming in and increasing underhood pressure

im still having small getting hot issues . only when its reallllly hot on 20-30 mins drives it creeps up slowly only on the highway . idk wat else to duct with this front mount .

gets lil bit pass the half point only really hot days . makes me real nervous. driving threw the city or on days were its colder than 90 drgress its fine

Ok i posted earlier my car running the front mount and it was pretty good, well on the track FAIL. I could not o 3-4 laps before having to pull off and cool down hitting temps 218f. ambient temp was 86 f

On the road you should be fine though

As for melting relays get a good relay run bigger gauge wire i think i am running 10 or 8 guage for the taurus fan on hi.

Also hope you have a bigger alternator.

I'm running a fmic no belly pan stock Rad and pusher fan hard wired ... the stock temp gauge is wired with my auto meter and under load or boost 15 to 20 lbs I'm comingg up around 190 on hot days ... witch is just about half way on the stock gauge ... its still seems very hot ... but my guess is that my oil cooled only Turbo is the culprit ... plus my stock cooling setup ... but I also have a big aftermarket oil cooler aluminum ....

wat do u mean pusher fan? and u took the undertray off?

I don't understand why people think 200 is too hot...
Mine spikes to 205 or so (on prosport gauge/haltech sensor) after a romp on an "uncomfortable" day (high 80's... HUMID). By then the t'stat fully opens and it cools back down and stays down around 190-195. I run the stock radiator and clutch fan!

If you are looking at the stock gauge and rely on the old "1/3 up the way or else you die!" myth, then of course you think you are over heating. 200 on the s4 stocker is past half way!
Oh no, panic! :rolleyes:

FC3S Pro v2.0: Mods - Water Temperature Gauge

FWIW the temperature apparently depends on where your sensor is.

Where is your sensor? Oh right, no gauges, so this is all a big waste of time...

I have a e fan! Stock clutch fan and the temp sensor is mounted on top of the Rad!

why is ur temp sensor on top of the rad? thats not were its suppose to be some were on the coolant neck from wat every 1 tells me im ordering my temp guage monday . i just dont like how on real hot days the gauges just keeps creeping up nn the highway . but anything cooler than 90 degress it stays nice and cool no creeping inless im boosting then yea it starts creeeping

Turbo cars run hotter, 200 isn't that hot, 220+ would be what id consider hot.

sometimes i hate my car and 99% of the time i love it . i think im just gonna put the top mount back on till i go vmount and eliminate all these problems

You're probably just being paranoid. I know my Brothers old 1st gen eclipse would run up pretty hot sometimes, like 220ish or so.

Turbo cars just run hotter.

My old na would run up to like 195 max according to my temp gauge i installed. Im sure it could of went higher if i was drifting or autocrossing.

Im not sure what site shows a chart but i remember seeing one and it saying major engine failure was around 250+

Maybe mazdatrix or fc3spro

From other post i read 240 is engine failure.

So 220ish is probably about as hot as you want it to get.

I think if you go above 175, you should panic. If you hit 180 your engine is dead. Just get rid of the car.

You're an idiot, the stock thermostat opens at 180, you've just proven your post count isnt relative to your knowledge.

Huh?

Say what?


The stock sensor on top of the radiator isn't a temperature sensor, it's a coolant level sensor. The stock temperature sensor is behind the water pump.

x10000000 lol i thought i was going crazy temp sensor is behind the the housing under the alternator

You're sharp as a marble! :)

Alright so you learn something every day! I just know the aftermarket gauge is wired to the gauge on they dash! That is all I'm trying to say!

That is not the normal arrangement.
Both gauges are sharing a sensor at the same time?
What sensor?

Typically, a gauge is only accurate when paired with the proper sending unit.