lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

What I've done: just put my engine back together installed the 6PI sleeves, made sure they are operational. Installed new Vac lines and adjusted the TPS.

The symptoms: High Idle, "Beep Beep Beep" Evenly spaced with no pause, car stalls out pretty easily. Acts like it's flooded, but after doing the deflood procedure still won't start--possibly just a weak battery. When pressing the gas abruptly it bogs down a little bit, but if slowly depressing the gas works fine (Think that has more to do with the idle than anything).

Car now Idles high (but I think I know how to fix that--The secondary throttle plates are opened a little more than needed, however the adjusting screw decided to crap out on me and break, any recomendations on how to get the screw out?--This is not the idle adjust screw, but the secondary throttle plate position screw). Could I alter the idle by adjusting the variable resistor and then re-adjusting the TPS and setting the idle with the idle control screw (Which is already maxed out on the lowest possible rpm setting)? Car idles stable at 2k or so.

Of a more pressing concern is when I start the car I get an even spaced Beep warning. No warning or idiot lights. All sensors seem to be hooked up correctly and all vacuum lines run appropriately. All of which seem to be on the up and up except I misplaced a cap for one vac input just behind the throttle body for connection to the cold start assist. I have it temporarly hooked up to the cold start assist to negate vac leak--it did not help. Would the "beep beep beep beep..." be indicitive of having the water temp sensor on backwards? I don't see how that's possible though since it would just be a resistance type and the voltage flow throw either end would indicate the same (The resistor is non-directional). The only other thing I could think of would be the secondary injector clips are on backwards, but that wouldn't make sense because i'm having issues with only the primaries running the engine. Any thoughts? Did I hook up the primaries backwards?... Did I do something n00bish again?

Thanks.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Fixed the even spaced beeping--it was what I thought it was. The secondary throttle plates were far too open for the idle. I just drilled and tapped the busted bolt out chased the threads and went down to the local hardware store and picked up a brand new bolt and nut. Now have more adjustablity.

The car however still bogs heavily on acceleration to the point where it stalls out. I don't think it's really flooding out because I'm able to restart it immediatly. I'm thinking it might be one of a few things:

Variable resistor is out of spec and is causing issues.
TPS is not able to set to the 1v spec (Closest I can get to it is 1.5v)
Spark Plugs are fouled from all the deep creep and penetrating oil I put in.

Is there anything else I should check? Can a vacuum leak be causing this?

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

I'm leaning more and more towards trouble with the throttle body. I can rev hard by opening the secondary plates manually just fine, but when returned to normal the engine will stall out. If I use the primary throttle plates the engine will not increase in RPM unless I do it slowly (Can't do it from the peddle) however if I try to do it quickly it will stall out. Could the TPS be causing this? I unhooked the TPS to double check, but the engine behaves the same with or without it.

I tried setting the variable resistor, but no effect was occuring when I moved it to rich and lean (Yes I jumpered the connector--if the connector is green and by the battery)

Still haven't checked the Plugs as they function fine when I raise it by using the secondary plates and the TPS doesn't affect ignition, but fuel delivery. Also the TPS is brand new. So either the voltage coming to it is incorrect or I'm aiming for the wrong voltage... Time to do a search.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Okay... Here's an easy question that some one should be able to answer: What does the vacuum nipple by the oil injectors connect to?

RETed

Dude, the beeping has nothing to do with the engine running...
It's all power steering.
It's even in the FAQ.
Specifically, here:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...72&postcount=3


-Ted

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Ted,
I already checked out the FAQ and I fixed the beeping already. I thought I posted that in a previous post. Basically the faq says about the consistent one beep is:

As far as I can figure is that the Power Steering Computer is telling me that there's was something wrong with the wires communicating with the computer what speed the car was at. Unfortunatly since I've been able to stabalize my idle I haven't been able to move the car under it's own power--this was the case prior to fixing the idle too. So why would a speed sensor be telling me it's crapped out
when the car hasn't moved at all? This beep occured when I was just idling high. Also the beep never went away after 60-seconds. I may be reading that wrong though. Once I fixed the idle it no longer beeps at me.

Right now I'm trying to figure out if a vac leak would cause my remaining symptom of the car not being able to move by pressing on the gas--IE I step on the gas and it kills the engine.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Went outside removed the UIM and what not and capped the vac-nipple on the LIM around the oil injectors. Replaced UIM and recalibrated/set the TPS to the 1v reference. It is set 100% sure. Checked for VAC leaks, do not see any nor hear any. Engine idles at 750-850 rpm (basically just under 1k) stable--no oscilations.

Double checked for vac leak and find out if I'm running rich or lean by removing the vac line attached to the cold start (See previous post as to why I hooked that up temporarily) engine did not die but did reduce in rpm and held stable; that tells me that I'm not running rich at all and probably am in the the ball park for idle richness.

However the single symptom still remains: Touching the main throttle body valve abruptly (aka: giving it gas) the engine immediatly dies. If I compare that to the secondary throttle body valves the engine can rev freely but will immediatly die once returned to idle.

Should I still be paranoid about a vac leak? Is there something I should check? Am I over looking anything? Could a clogged cat be causing this? I've hollowed out two of the three and was planning on hollowing out the third when I go to adjust my ride height.

Some things I've recently changed:
Vac lines--Did not swap out the pressure sensor line as I don't have a pill for it
Fuel Filter
Cleaned Injectors
Replaced secondary valve stop on the throttle body (Can't think of the official name just removed the broken screw and nut and replaced it with another)
Brand new TPS

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Problem resolved. I was just too stupid to read the wiring diagram for the injectors properly. (Hooked the secondaries to the primaries and vice-versa) Hence why it would die as soon as I hit the gas, it wouldn't get the necessary gas until after the extra air hit it, which would stall out the engine.


Anyways, drove it around, no issues. No more stumble or hesitation at all either.