RickRx

I read where hailers told a guy that had the same code but with rtek 2.0 that his problem was putting a turbocharged engine in a non turbo car. I've been searching to find the fix but can't, even searching hailers name. From what I get x-15 is confusing 2b and that is the reason for the code.

I get power to the boost sensor wires like fsm says with 4.99volts on one and batt volts on other 2 and a ground. Tried 3 318 sensors have the TII harness and ecu. I want to clear all the codes before I start it up. My question is did everyone that did a tII swap get this code? because I'm reading swap stories no one talks about this. I need to get this car to DMV for vin identification (out of state) My friend passed my smog before the car was done( think about it) now Im stressing. Anyone please help butcher me tell me to search more tell me to read fsm done all that. Going crazy over here and dmv don't play
thanks



mods are rtek 1.5, fmic,no emissions,s5 turbocharger,tid 87 gxl >87 tII

HAILERS

On that boost sensor plug..........turn the key to ON, engine off. Put a meter on that BROWN/RED wire with the plug connected to the boost sensor. The voltage should be 2.3 to 2.7vdc. IF so, then that's ok.

IF it's near batt voltage on the brown/red wire, that's bad.

But if it is 2.3 to 2.7vdc, then go to the ECU and put a meter on the pin 2B with that ECU plug connected to the ECU and the boost sensors plug on the boost sensor. The voltage should be the same as was seen at the boost sensor, 2.3 to 2.7 vdc. Should not kick a code if that is the case.

But if your seeing battery voltage on the brown/red wire at the boost sensor, then it's probably because you used a turbo EM harness on a non turbo car. So now you have to find the plug on the EM harness that mates with the Front harness. It's called X-15 (FEM-01 on some schematics) and has fifteen pins/sockets. Find the Brown/Red wire in that plug and remove it OR cut it a few inches back from the plug and cover it's end with ??? shrink tubing so it won't short. IF you were reading batt voltage at the boost sensor prior to doing this, you should now only read the 2.3 to 2.7vdc.

Or it might be another thing all together. IF you have a non turbo boost sensor and have a Turbo ECU, the voltage would be more like 3.5 to 4vdc and would kick a code. But you already tried several sensors so that's not it.

iceblue

Hey HAILERS is the 3.5 to 4vdc acceptable when running in that configuration? If not what is the fix?

Thank you.

HAILERS

IF the engine is a turbo with turbo ECU, then if you show 3.5 to 4vdc, that would mean you have a non turbo boost sensor. It is only one bar so to speak whereas the turbo's is two bar sensor. The non turbo will not recognize boost. I'd say you need the right sensor if the car is turbo and the output of the sensor is 3.5-4vdc.

I've swapped non turbo boost sensors into turbo cars and vice versa and each time the idle would act *funny*. Just did it out of curiosity and nothig else.

RickRx

Thank you hailers so much just what I wanted to hear, a fix to the problem. I found alot of resistance at the ground under the trailing coil going to the chassis, cleaning the rusted terminals and going to try your fix. thanks

RickRx

Hailers the man,Damn he good. First try fixed the problem. I was getting battery voltage on the b/r wire at boost sensor, found the fem-01 plug on the pass kick panel near atmo sensor (pic). Cut it and shrink wrapped both sides now I get 2.348 and the error code went away. Thanks again gotta love this site

HAILERS

JPG of X-15 (FEM-01) attached. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...7&d=1179835335

The brown/red was mating with a black/white wire from the Front harness. That black/white comes directly from the Enigne fuse in the interior and putting batt voltage on a wire that should never rise over 5vdc. That brown/red also splices off and goes to the ECU pin 2B, which was seeing the same batt/12vdc. It should never see over 5vdc and rarely if ever that much voltage.

Also just below that brown/red (BrR) is a brown/black (BrB) wire in your EM harness. That is a ground wire. So that wire is now mating with a white/black (WB) in the Front harness. That White/Black is going to a relay in the CPU on the left side of the car. When that relay has a gnd on it, it SHOULD cause the Warning Lights to all light up. IF this is happening (all warning lights coming on), then you might just snip that sucker also.

Look at that attached jpg. See all the wire colors that have a ( ) around them? Those places are where the Turbo and non turbo EM harness differ. I mean the signals on EM half of that plug do NOT match the signal on the Front half of that plug. The only one that can do any real HARM is the one you just fixed.

Same with FEM-02 (X-16). The ones in ( ) differ from the non turbo ones.

See the BW just over the WB???? The BW was meant to send batt voltage to the small plug on the alternator. The WB was meant to send a signal from the small pulg on the alternator to the CPU's alt relay.

That's why some wire changes need to be made if a turbo EM harness is used on a non turbo car.

The (LW) wire would go to the boost gauge on a Turbo car.

The (BL) wire would have been the ground wire for the boost gauge on a turbo.

The (YW) is the output wire FROM the water temp sensor on the left of the engine.

The (YB) would have been the water temp signal going to the water temp gauge.

But if you look, there is NO (YB) in the Front half of your cars plug (FEM-01). On the turbo EM harness you'll find them in the FEM-02 if memory serves.

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

Hailers is da man. I like his posts. We should open a shop together somewhere between Okla and TX and call it OklaTex Rotary or something along those lines.