the engine is torn down...riiggghhhttt
#1
the engine is torn down...riiggghhhttt
SO... I finally got the ***** (and the 2-1/8 socket) from sears to start the teardown.
If anyone hasnt read about my stupid problems, you can check the symptoms if you search. ANYWAYS... the front uhh iron and rotor housing all look like brand new. The int housing, rear rotor housing and rear iron are pretty much fucked.
Ok, now I can see why the apex seals could not possibly make it into the oil pan... duh, i guess i can only learn from experience.
NOW THE ACTUAL PROBLEM. I STARTED FROM THE FRONT BTW.
The rotor seemed to have welded itself to the rear iron somehow. Since that has happened, im having incredibe trouble getting past the int housing. If it werent for the new e-shaft being in there, i'd just throw the damn half-"block" away.
When you take the flywheel off... shouldnt you be able to pull off the rear stationary gear when you pull the six bolts? Oh yeah... I COULDNT. Someone help me if im wrong, but I thought it was possible to work from the back forward.
If anyone hasnt read about my stupid problems, you can check the symptoms if you search. ANYWAYS... the front uhh iron and rotor housing all look like brand new. The int housing, rear rotor housing and rear iron are pretty much fucked.
Ok, now I can see why the apex seals could not possibly make it into the oil pan... duh, i guess i can only learn from experience.
NOW THE ACTUAL PROBLEM. I STARTED FROM THE FRONT BTW.
The rotor seemed to have welded itself to the rear iron somehow. Since that has happened, im having incredibe trouble getting past the int housing. If it werent for the new e-shaft being in there, i'd just throw the damn half-"block" away.
When you take the flywheel off... shouldnt you be able to pull off the rear stationary gear when you pull the six bolts? Oh yeah... I COULDNT. Someone help me if im wrong, but I thought it was possible to work from the back forward.
#2
Lives on the Forum
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Hmm, never tried it front-to-back, but one thing pops in my head- the clearances between the e-shaft and that rear gear are such that if you "****" the rear gear even a couple of molecules (not really, but you get the point) trying to pry it out, it's going to get hung up on the e-shaft.
Besides, if you toasted the rotor, you may also have damaged the gear and/or e-shaft.
I like your "live and learn" attitude
Besides, if you toasted the rotor, you may also have damaged the gear and/or e-shaft.
I like your "live and learn" attitude
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#3
I was under the impression that back-forward was the standard method. Thats how I've done it. Yes, the rear stat gear shoud come out if the bolts are removed. I had a difficult time with this when I rebuild mine. Take a big open end wrench and stick it under the stat gear along the edge like a lever. You should be able to rock the wrench and it will lift up on the gear. Makes sence? Just work your way around, not pressing too hard or it may bind up on the e-shaft. Hope it helps.
#5
Carter 2.0
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something is wrong, that gear should come out much easier than that. It must be cocked to one side or the other and binding itself. You may need to hammer it back into place and start over. A rubber hammer is all I used on mine. What you are describing is bad. The whole rear Iron should be able to be lift off the E-Shaft with the S-Gear still in place. Can you do that??
#7
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You don't need to remove the sattionary gear to disassemble the engine. If the rotor is fused somehow to the gear/rear housing you should just be able to pull off the gear, housing, and rotor with a bit of patience and careful prying.
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