Engine Tear down
#1
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Engine Tear down
So I finally got my engine from Punxy, PA to Palmyra, PA and got some pics of what happened. This is the engine from the vert that blew up after I crossed the MD line with it (after many tickets for all kinds of BS).
Anyways, so it looks like the rear rotor got fucked up something fierce by something. I'm not sure what it was or how it happened. I have a funny feeling the E-shaft may be pretty screwed too. Looks like there's alot of lips on it.
The housingings however, seem to be in decent shape considering all the apex seals on the front rotor were broken. The rear rotor is the one that looks beat to **** and has the huge scuff mark. All the apex seals on that rotor looked mint. The front rotor's side seals were a bitch to get out. Most of them broke off inside and i had a hard time getting them out. The rear rotor's side seals came out quite easily.
Attached are pics and more pics. Let me know what you think the condition is and what I need to buy, other than the rebuild kit of course.
Anyways, so it looks like the rear rotor got fucked up something fierce by something. I'm not sure what it was or how it happened. I have a funny feeling the E-shaft may be pretty screwed too. Looks like there's alot of lips on it.
The housingings however, seem to be in decent shape considering all the apex seals on the front rotor were broken. The rear rotor is the one that looks beat to **** and has the huge scuff mark. All the apex seals on that rotor looked mint. The front rotor's side seals were a bitch to get out. Most of them broke off inside and i had a hard time getting them out. The rear rotor's side seals came out quite easily.
Attached are pics and more pics. Let me know what you think the condition is and what I need to buy, other than the rebuild kit of course.
#4
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Also, as shown above.. there was a shitload of copper bits inside the oil pan and falling out of the engine as I took it apart. When I took out the really long bolts to dissasemble the engine, antifreeze came out with the first 3 or 4 I took out. Top left four bolts when your looking at the engine from the back.
Last edited by DemonicPupil; 07-28-05 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Wrong picture
#6
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There are grooves all over the E-shaft... so yea, I would say it's probably screwed. I'm in the process of soaking all the parts in Power Purple and cleaning them to get a better idea of the damage.
Is that rotor reusable or should I junk it?
Is that rotor reusable or should I junk it?
#7
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Originally Posted by DemonicPupil
Above, the timing housing looks like it was cracking...
Those "cracks" are casting imperfections.
-Ted
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#8
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Originally Posted by DemonicPupil
Also, as shown above.. there was a shitload of copper bits inside the oil pan and falling out of the engine as I took it apart.
![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
When I took out the really long bolts to dissasemble the engine, antifreeze came out with the first 3 or 4 I took out. Top left four bolts when your looking at the engine from the back.
The top left most tension bolt is normally bathed in oil.
The bottom right is normally cruddy from all the heat from the exhaust.
The bottom left should come out CLEAN!
-Ted
#9
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BTW, the rotor with big scuff mark and chip in the dip is the same as the one with the big chip in the center.
So I'm assuming the diagnosis is replace the E-shaft, how much do those run? and probably replace this rotor? Can I use S5 rotors instead of S4 rotors if I buy 2 rotors? Can I still use my S4 housings with S5 rotors? What kind of route do I have to take with the rebuild kit if I got S5 rotors with S4 housings (if it is even possible)?
So I'm assuming the diagnosis is replace the E-shaft, how much do those run? and probably replace this rotor? Can I use S5 rotors instead of S4 rotors if I buy 2 rotors? Can I still use my S4 housings with S5 rotors? What kind of route do I have to take with the rebuild kit if I got S5 rotors with S4 housings (if it is even possible)?
#10
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Originally Posted by DemonicPupil
So I'm assuming the diagnosis is replace the E-shaft, how much do those run?
Try the 2nd gen parts for sale section in here.
If you don't see one, just post a "wanted" ad for one.
These things are not in high demand, and typical price is like $50.
The big problem is shipping costs, as it's pretty damn heavy; finding one local to you is worth it to save on shipping costs.
and probably replace this rotor?
Or does it nick the apex seal grooves?
Can I use S5 rotors instead of S4 rotors if I buy 2 rotors?
The rotors are different weights, and they have their own special set of counterweights / flywheels.
Can I still use my S4 housings with S5 rotors?
What kind of route do I have to take with the rebuild kit if I got S5 rotors with S4 housings (if it is even possible)?
-Ted
#12
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The chips are on the rotor face, apex and side seal areas look alrite tho. What about that chip where the E-shaft goes through? Is that dangerous?
I plan to put in a lightweight flywheel anyways (thus having to get a counterweight)... so... what gains would I see by putting S5 rotors instead of S4? The only difference between the two rotors is weight, right?
I plan to put in a lightweight flywheel anyways (thus having to get a counterweight)... so... what gains would I see by putting S5 rotors instead of S4? The only difference between the two rotors is weight, right?
#13
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Originally Posted by DemonicPupil
The chips are on the rotor face, apex and side seal areas look alrite tho.
What about that chip where the E-shaft goes through? Is that dangerous?
The bearings are relatively cheap, and you need to find someone (a machine shop?) locally to press out the old ones and press in the new ones.
I plan to put in a lightweight flywheel anyways (thus having to get a counterweight)... so... what gains would I see by putting S5 rotors instead of S4? The only difference between the two rotors is weight, right?
You might feel a little bit more power across the board going with the S5 NA rotors.
-Ted
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